"Make it trick!" - RogueIV's Enhanced Kinwald Replica (and runner)

[DSaw78]

I have a knock off felt gasket coming for mine; so it won't work with the kit transmission?

It'll work.

OK cool, good to know.

[DSaw78]

The fastener express stuff is OK but the small pattern 4-40 lock nuts are a bit of a letdown. The blue anodizing is inconsistent and I had to prethread them onto a screw before using them on the ball studs because they refused to thread on straight because the nylon insert was too tight.

While definitely more expensive, the blue small pattern lock nuts from Custom Works are good quality. I've used them (and other CW hardware) on several of my cars.

I used those on mine, they are nice for sure. Along with a few other CW hardware related things.

I think I'm going to try cutting my wheels down with a Dremel using a sanding drum. Wish me luck, lol.

[RogueIV]

The topshaft came in. While not great it's serviceable and for $15 I can't complain too much. Gear mesh is good it's slightly too big on the flats section so the hydra drive is tough to get onto it. Nothing a little filing and sanding didn't fix.

A little comparo to the different top shafts, single slipper from the DS (you), dual slipper from the kit, and Hydradrive (the one she told you not to worry about)

Hydra dry fitted for now till I get the new seals in.

Also manned up and did the rear worlds bend. this one is kinda fun and a little weird. During the Mains Brian was running with a button head screw in the original right hand hole which puts a bit of tension on the back of the chassis. I'm not sure why he chose to do this as it negates quite a bit of the modification. I can make a wild guess that maybe he stripped or got a screw stuck in the middle hole of the motor plate, the hole wasn't where he wanted it, or he didn't really like the modification. After the Worlds, the car got a new rear motor plate installed with the screw in the middle location and a nut on the inside of the motor plate and raced the Reedy race with that.

Anyway, I did the bend by clamping the chassis and a piece of aluminum stock to the chassis with the edge just past the rear mounting screws. I then bent the rear guard up till it was were I wanted it. I unfortunately didn't take a pic of this process, but might be doing it again soon to my RC10T so if I do I'll show it here. I then drilled the middle hole first in the chassis with a smaller hole then mounted the trans to the chassis and drilled through the new hole into the motorplate. This ensures that the screw holes line up without having to put the chassis under tension/compression. Even with the chassis stock the rear motorplate never really lines up well. Why go through all this trouble when that isn't the hole Brian even used? Well, like I said I plan on driving this car and will run that middle screw when doing so.

Here's the rear bend with the screw in the new center hole

This is it with the screw in the original right side. Note how much of the bend is pushed down just by moving this screw.

Backside of the motor plate

When installing the new topshaft I also took the internals out of my RC10T and installed them into this case. Fitment is thankfully good on the rere DS case and the original diff and internals, no binding or excessive end play. The new hydra topshaft from amazon seems to mesh well aside from my issues with the slipper flats. Outdrives are now the proper color.

I have installed CVDs, these aren't the proper ones but the tiny ridge bothers me less than the new MIP CVDs having lettering lasered onto them. They're also 3/16" axles instead of 1/4". I'll change these later on when i either get some OG CVDs or figure out a nice way to delete the lettering on the new MIP CVDs. Also I'd need to source different rear wheels when i goto 1/4" axles.

I also ran the countersinks through the chassis holes on the underside to get the screws to fit more flush as they were slightly proud of the surface before.

That's about it for now. still need to carve up the rear bulkhead so i can get it to roller status, hopefully I get to that later this week.

[Charlie don't surf]

How far are you going with this? Full on replica with the modern car?

[RogueIV]

How far are you going with this? Full on replica with the modern car?

As close as i can while using the kit chassis is the current plan. Granted the car will have different trims depending if its on shelf or track duty. I won't be running a chassis protector on this either so it'll accumulate some natural patina from running. Some people might find that silly but i kinda like seeing cars that show that they've been run.

[Charlie don't surf]

How far are you going with this? Full on replica with the modern car?

As close as i can while using the kit chassis is the current plan. Granted the car will have different trims depending if its on shelf or track duty. I won't be running a chassis protector on this either so it'll accumulate some natural patina from running. Some people might find that silly but i kinda like seeing cars that show that they've been run.

You need to find some early CVD's without the reinforced bell then......


Lol. Sorry. Had to!

[scr8p]

You could cut a good 1/4" off the tab on the motor plate. I'm kind of surprised AE didn't do it. I don't think I mentioned that in the videos.

[DSaw78]

I said I wasn't going to go and do every little thing to mine to make it exact as possible, but you are inspiring me so I guess I will try to. I didn't even know about the outdrives so I'm on the hunt for those and the correct shock caps this morning. I also need to remove some of the blue nuts on the front end and replace them with some silver ones. Along with the Hydradrive screws, etc. Lol. I do have some aluminum screws coming for the trans and a felt gasket.

I did also get my wheels cut down yesterday, but if I have to change the CVDs then I guess I will have to do that again with another set. Along with finding the correct tires.