Shock Diaphrams?
- superfly
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Shock Diaphrams?
Does anyone use Shock Diaphrams in their shocks? The air/oil separtators at the top of the shock i have heard people use? I searched around and only found these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUC1&P=0
would they work in standard sized rc10 gold shocks? Anyone know where to buy better ones? Or should i even bother with these?
Cheers Dave
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUC1&P=0
would they work in standard sized rc10 gold shocks? Anyone know where to buy better ones? Or should i even bother with these?
Cheers Dave
- Eau Rouge
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I use the new VCS2 shock caps on a few sets of my Associated TC shocks, and I don't particularly like them. They soften with silicone oils and lose shape, and don't work so well unless you are using a shock cap that was made for them.
You can fill a stock shock, bleed the air out from under the piston, fill the cap with oil, then assemble, and bleed excess oil and get a better performing shock than trying to put those bladders in a stock RC10 shock.
Unlike the Kyosho Gold shocks, the Associateds don't work so well with a bladder inside. However, a nice upgrade is the late model shock black o-ring on the old style shock. For a few bucks, its nicer than that little plastic ring the old shocks used to come with.
In my time, I have even seen some guys drill small 2-56 holes in the cap, tap the hole, and use a small 2-56 screw in the cap as a bleeder screw, like some of the old Yokomo TC shocks. Worked pretty well, but easy to strip out.
We used to just use an inch of plumber's teflon tape wrapped around the threads, fill up both the cap and shock body with oil, and bleed off the oil as much as we could before tightening the cap down all the way. It worked pretty well, actually.
doug
You can fill a stock shock, bleed the air out from under the piston, fill the cap with oil, then assemble, and bleed excess oil and get a better performing shock than trying to put those bladders in a stock RC10 shock.
Unlike the Kyosho Gold shocks, the Associateds don't work so well with a bladder inside. However, a nice upgrade is the late model shock black o-ring on the old style shock. For a few bucks, its nicer than that little plastic ring the old shocks used to come with.
In my time, I have even seen some guys drill small 2-56 holes in the cap, tap the hole, and use a small 2-56 screw in the cap as a bleeder screw, like some of the old Yokomo TC shocks. Worked pretty well, but easy to strip out.
We used to just use an inch of plumber's teflon tape wrapped around the threads, fill up both the cap and shock body with oil, and bleed off the oil as much as we could before tightening the cap down all the way. It worked pretty well, actually.
doug
- superfly
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Doug, do you put the black o ring seal at the bottom of the threaded part where the white ring use to sit, or inside the top part and let it sit against the top seat...
The book says to put it over the threads and then tighten the cap down onto it...but I bought a set of shocks from a guy and he had the oring seal just placed inside the cap and then tightened down...thats the way i've been doing it and it seems to work better...???
The book says to put it over the threads and then tighten the cap down onto it...but I bought a set of shocks from a guy and he had the oring seal just placed inside the cap and then tightened down...thats the way i've been doing it and it seems to work better...???
- Eau Rouge
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Over the threads of the shock body where the original seal was, then screw the cap down. Keep in mind, those shocks were not originally designed for that type of seal.
The TC3/TC4 shock works this way (VCS).
Putting the o-ring inside the cap just seems like a good way to have the o-ring pop out under load and wind up inside your shock.
The TC3/TC4 shock works this way (VCS).
Putting the o-ring inside the cap just seems like a good way to have the o-ring pop out under load and wind up inside your shock.
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