j0pp3 wrote:I'm using an original part as a blueprint and mount it with two screws to keep it firm on top of the CF plate. Then I just have to use a common sanding drum and file it down until I touch the edges of the original. Inner holes/areas are done in the same way except I have to use a bit smaller version of sanding drums. I just start somewhere drilling a hole at first (the biggest hole I could do). Then again sand the inner area down until I touch the edges.
Jerzi in this forum are doing it the exact same way but we did not know about each others techniques before we started
I've previously used a very similar technique, but as mentioned before, inside curves can be quite difficult with any round tool or bit....a lot of filing may be required. I fabricated some custom shock towers for my CYANide car using similar techniques. I might try it with a sanding drum next time, which would be easier, perhaps. I guess following along to duplicate an existing piece wouldn't be as difficult as free-handing one-off parts that don't match the original. That wasn't what I'd call easy. Even as careful as I was, anyone can clearly see that it's a one-off home-made piece.
Coelacanth wrote:I've previously used a very similar technique, but as mentioned before, inside curves can be quite difficult with any round tool or bit....a lot of filing may be required. I fabricated some custom shock towers for my CYANide car using similar techniques. I might try it with a sanding drum next time, which would be easier, perhaps. I guess following along to duplicate an existing piece wouldn't be as difficult as free-handing one-off parts that don't match the original. That wasn't what I'd call easy. Even as careful as I was, anyone can clearly see that it's a one-off home-made piece.
I think you just used a tool with too small diameter. Then it's hard to make straight lines. Small tools are only good for corners where the angles are tight. I use as big sanding drum as possible to avoid getting a "bumpy" lines. Step up in size now and then and don't press hard when getting close the final line. Let the tool work for it self in the end.
I have to give you cred for creating your own design! I just copy the parts as they are... yet!
I know, I am doing things the other way around. Body done before the chassis. A white repro Turbo Optima Mid body with repro Turbo Optima Mid decals from Tamkyo. I will leave the windows transparent. The text near the bottom is spelled a bit strange (B UGGY) so I am glad I did not use Tamkyo decals for my restore projects
Now I am waiting for a few parts before I continue.
I know, I am doing things the other way around. Body done before the chassis. A white repro Turbo Optima Mid body with repro Turbo Optima Mid decals from Tamkyo. I will leave the windows transparent. The text near the bottom is spelled a bit strange (B UGGY) so I am glad I did not use Tamkyo decals for my restore projects
Now I am waiting for a few parts before I continue.
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It is called Efficiency Sir no sitting around doing nothing. AWESOME as usual.
a trick I use when making my own parts is to design them on paper, and then tape to blank material without cutting out the design. Then cut the design out with an xacto such that the blade traces the outline through the page and creates a cutout line in the blank material. The you simply grind/drill/file/polish with your tools until the line is gone. Usually the only issue is when you are approaching an inside curve with the wrong tool and take the radius out with a gouge.
jwscab wrote:a trick I use when making my own parts is to design them on paper, and then tape to blank material without cutting out the design. Then cut the design out with an xacto such that the blade traces the outline through the page and creates a cutout line in the blank material. The you simply grind/drill/file/polish with your tools until the line is gone. Usually the only issue is when you are approaching an inside curve with the wrong tool and take the radius out with a gouge.
That seemed to work pretty well too mate! Thanks for showing your technique. Designing home made parts is the next step for me but maybe not for this particular project.
Let's have an update shall we? So.. I got some custom made mid arms today (thanks bigjeepzz!). Also found some other new stuff to add. It almost looks like a prototype
oh yeah, another trick to pass along. If you can find dirt cheap backer material, like polycarbonate or fiberglass or plexiglass, or even aluminum, use that as a backer to drill holes, particularly in carbon fiber. The backer supports the material as it's being drilled and prevents tearing and bulging on the back side of the hole. works beautifully. that goes for pretty much any material that you happen to drill through, but more so with composites and 'smeary' soft material, like aluminum.
I started today an new project. I found my mid and thats an new built but missin some parts.
Anway that will be an full carbon car. Even the wingstay are made.
I have only left to built
rear shock stay
chassie
upper plate
I got a lot of Optima Mid parts I have amassed since 1990 to 1992, which I still have until today. Seeing so many people building SWBs, I have gotten an itch too.
This was a small sample of my parts bin, putting together my brother's Turbo Optima...
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cheap heatsink that I got from the local electronics store, seems there was a tapped hole already drilled into the motor plate, just had to find a long enough M3 screw,and put some heat conductin paste, voila ! No need litesink !
I have one each now...
But instead to make a A&l long wheelbase I did it in the short original wheelbase.
I`m planing to use short lipo if the normal one will not fit properly.
Pics will be added soon, and its gona be lots of pics...
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There is not much to do.
Wing stay/support are next to do.
Jerzi
Got this from a good mate. It started life as a Ferrari on road racer. A Optima Mid Custom chassis that Kyosho slapped on a nice shell with the cool 5 spoke star chrome wheels. My mate converted it to...
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Spent the last couple days on this now.
I installed a new digital servo, Brushless speedie with a 8.5 sensored motor.
The gearing is around the right mark. The platinum shocks aren't that good and too stiff . The rear springs are modded Losi...
After a long time I finally got enough bits together to build a shelf queen Turbo Optima Mid to accompany my Optima Mid, here are some pics.
I also have (all boxart paint):
Ultima
Triumph
Turbo Optima
Lazer ZX
Lazer ZX-R
Cheers,
Dan :D
and a...
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I like it !!! looking forward to many pictures............The table is high class for RC build........can i hear anybody in the background scream............. :lol:
This will be my 1000th post at RC10Talk, I don’t know if all of my posts have been meaningful as it states in the BST rules… at least I made 25 meaningful posts sins I have been granted access to BST…
But anyway, this is the first post for a new...
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I was wondering where this thread went. I couldn't find it. Thanks jerzi.
Lars, so you've been running the Thorp right? What grease did you use and how does it look now (post vonats?). Is the brass still decent?
Even as careful as I was, anyone can clearly see that it's a one-off home-made piece. 
no sitting around doing nothing. AWESOME as usual.
