t3
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Re: t3
I have run the stink out of this truck. One bent ball stud is the extent of the damage. User error, I failed to fully tighten a nut that I replaced on the backside of the ball stud.
I picked up 8 new tires and rims, a new T4 chassis and parts for $40 shipped, more than I paid for the truck! 4 J Concepts and 4 Proline suburbs. The J Concepts held up very well shredding on asphalt.
The truck spent almost as much time grinding down the road on the shock towers with no body as it did right side up. I can't believe the ears on the dogbones didn't shear off. They were well worn when I got the truck.
I updated the third grader paint scheme with Krylon paint for plastics. I used the paint on properly prepared 1:1 hubcaps and it never chipped or fouled from brake dust. It seems to be holding well on the lexan too. Most importantly it will keep me from grinding down any more parts. I will still get a newer T3/T4 body at some point.
Currently geared 84/20. The 4600kv motor and speed control were barely warm after 20-30 minutes of non stop full speed basher madness. I glazed the slipper pad about half way through the run. I could hear it slip but there was no real difference in acceleration. No reason to stop. "Ground control to Major Tom, your slipper looks like a Krispy Kreme."
I picked up 8 new tires and rims, a new T4 chassis and parts for $40 shipped, more than I paid for the truck! 4 J Concepts and 4 Proline suburbs. The J Concepts held up very well shredding on asphalt.
The truck spent almost as much time grinding down the road on the shock towers with no body as it did right side up. I can't believe the ears on the dogbones didn't shear off. They were well worn when I got the truck.
I updated the third grader paint scheme with Krylon paint for plastics. I used the paint on properly prepared 1:1 hubcaps and it never chipped or fouled from brake dust. It seems to be holding well on the lexan too. Most importantly it will keep me from grinding down any more parts. I will still get a newer T3/T4 body at some point.
Currently geared 84/20. The 4600kv motor and speed control were barely warm after 20-30 minutes of non stop full speed basher madness. I glazed the slipper pad about half way through the run. I could hear it slip but there was no real difference in acceleration. No reason to stop. "Ground control to Major Tom, your slipper looks like a Krispy Kreme."
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- Russ Winn
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Re: t3
WOW
...You really did wear those dogbones! It seems like it's holding up pretty well, based on your reports. Eventually, I may have to look into a truck, but right now I'm spending all my money on 6 gear parts.

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Re: t3
No, they were well worn when the truck arrived. I can't believe they didn't break off!
Let me know what you need in the way of 6 gear parts before you spend any more money
Let me know what you need in the way of 6 gear parts before you spend any more money

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Re: t3
I am still learning the gear ratios of the truck. Castle recommends 87/12-16. I have been running a Castle CM36 4600kv geared 84/20 on the street. The truck hooked up with little wheel spin so the motor was working hard but never got hot.
I bumped up to 84/23 running at the beach and did not have any heating issues i.e. I didn't burn anything up. The motor was fairly hot to the touch and probably close to the limit <insert temp gauge here> I swapped out the CM36 for a 1406 5700kv (I believe both are 4 pole motors). I already smell fire...
I bumped up to 84/23 running at the beach and did not have any heating issues i.e. I didn't burn anything up. The motor was fairly hot to the touch and probably close to the limit <insert temp gauge here> I swapped out the CM36 for a 1406 5700kv (I believe both are 4 pole motors). I already smell fire...
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Re: t3
Everything I read about brushless led me to believe the 5700kv would be too fast for the truck. Being this truck is my only basher, I had to know. Well, you know you are going fast when the fronts swell as much as the rear during full speed blasts
I cautiously estimated around 45mph, others believe it is running 50+. The body blew off in the first spectacular crash caused mostly by body aerodynamics. Shortly thereafter a high-speed run on asphalt ended with a 50ft slide on the shock mounts. They were all ground down evenly but the left rear upper nylon shock nut was ripped off.
I continued full speed runs and general bashing with the shock dangling around as I didn't bring the tool box. I clipped a utility transformer and broke the right rear arm mount. The mount was intact but seemed to break the front screw loose. The arm was hanging on and swinging from front to rear during, yes, continued bashing. Don't ask me how I didn't bend the axles

I cautiously estimated around 45mph, others believe it is running 50+. The body blew off in the first spectacular crash caused mostly by body aerodynamics. Shortly thereafter a high-speed run on asphalt ended with a 50ft slide on the shock mounts. They were all ground down evenly but the left rear upper nylon shock nut was ripped off.
I continued full speed runs and general bashing with the shock dangling around as I didn't bring the tool box. I clipped a utility transformer and broke the right rear arm mount. The mount was intact but seemed to break the front screw loose. The arm was hanging on and swinging from front to rear during, yes, continued bashing. Don't ask me how I didn't bend the axles

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Re: t3
Mike, this truck does not live an easy life. I beat it with everything except a hammer. I am truly amazed that the only broken part to date was a $1.50 arm mount.
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Re: t3
If you really want to brag about low cost bashing,save the $1.50 and just move the shocks inward.



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Re: t3
I ended up repairing the upper shock mount with a rubber band
The arm mount (attached to the chassis near the trans) was the $1.50 broken part. The truck continued to run with the broken mount and the arm swinging front to rear approximately 1/2". The arm swung back on acceleration and forward on braking
BUILT AE TOUGH!


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Re: t3
I opened up my T4 and put the body on my T3 and its seems like the body COULD work.My 4 body is uncut so i cant be 100% sure.The body dimples in the rear are for 2 post on the T4,so thats the best i can do.
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Re: t3
Thanks Steve. My wife and I were up in the pan handle near Apalachicola. I always take the toys if we go to the beach 

Re: t3
So it's possible to change an old T2 body by a T4 ?BajaDale wrote:Not sure? I run a T2 body on my T4 and it fits, not sure on the T4 on a T3 though.
I have a T2 and the body is 18 years old, i'd like to change it by a new one but it's difficult to find one.
Does anyone have tested a buggy body on a truck ? how does it looks like ?
V+
Laurent
- longboardnj
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Re: t3
id go back to the beach with a set of paddle tires the 20 tooth pinion and the diff tight. that would be a ton of funknucklebuster wrote:I am still learning the gear ratios of the truck. Castle recommends 87/12-16. I have been running a Castle CM36 4600kv geared 84/20 on the street. The truck hooked up with little wheel spin so the motor was working hard but never got hot.
I bumped up to 84/23 running at the beach and did not have any heating issues i.e. I didn't burn anything up. The motor was fairly hot to the touch and probably close to the limit <insert temp gauge here> I swapped out the CM36 for a 1406 5700kv (I believe both are 4 pole motors). I already smell fire...
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