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Cheers Lonestar ended up going with a reedy 3500KV sl4 motor. all the Turnigy stuff I was looking at was sold out (which I find is normally the case) plus this way I get to use the sidewinder3 sensorless ESC. SO win win plus its waterproof.. Got jiggy with a tranny tear down and rebuild last night not in bad shape but when spinning the rear it sometimes gets loose or has a non smooth wobble before returning to a smooth roll. Subsequently unplanned orders were placed. Brand new trans case, diff, idle, topshaft, diff rebuild kit, outer alum hubs, full bearing kit, and knk hardware. Most likely will build a brand new trans and swap it out. then practice tearing down and building the old diff to get the feel right.

for future reference which lunsford hinge pin set matches the 10t. the worlds Car or the rc10 or the stealth (assuming this is a no).

going to head out a little early today and see what spares are lying around and put some power to the wheels.

Bgisbad wrote: ↑Fri Dec 21, 2018 12:01 pm Cheers Lonestar ended up going with a reedy 3500KV sl4 motor. all the Turnigy stuff I was looking at was sold out (which I find is normally the case) plus this way I get to use the sidewinder3 sensorless ESC. SO win win plus its waterproof.. Got jiggy with a tranny tear down and rebuild last night not in bad shape but when spinning the rear it sometimes gets loose or has a non smooth wobble before returning to a smooth roll. Subsequently unplanned orders were placed. Brand new trans case, diff, idle, topshaft, diff rebuild kit, outer alum hubs, full bearing kit, and knk hardware. Most likely will build a brand new trans and swap it out. then practice tearing down and building the old diff to get the feel right.

for future reference which lunsford hinge pin set matches the 10t. the worlds Car or the rc10 or the stealth (assuming this is a no).

going to head out a little early today and see what spares are lying around and put some power to the wheels.

Cool, good choice. I wouldn't do any waterproofing testing, though. Traxxas wants to make RC'ers believe RC cars are waterproof - they aren't, you'll end up with a rusty 10T, which would be a shame.

I am not an expert on the new re-re trannies as I've only dealt with old ones, I will let someone else chime in, but iirc the top shaft and idle gears have issues. I wouldn't necessarily use alum outdrives either, this is lightweight racing/shelf material. You're better off with a set of steep outdrives (ie original ones) even if worn out.

none of the buggy RC10 hinge pins / turnbuckles match the 10T's dimensions I believe. Retrieve the lengths from the instructions, and call lunsford directly with the list, they should be able to help you build a bespoke one if they don't have a set already.

Can't wait to see thefinished product

Paul

Well . Put power to the rear slowly to see how it reacts heard a little pop and now the spur gear spins but no wheels. Glad that team rebuild is on the way.

Edit maybe not so much after reading your post bud. At least they were bought from a retailer and not ebay

Need some advice

Seems the more I try to fix the more that breaks. Started rebuilding the rear shocks the bottom blew out. Attempted to reset the wire pin emptied oil and tried again. Same thing. Not too pleased.

Looking at replacing the shocks all around with These. Is there going to be any problems doing this?

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91316-ASC91316-ft_12_mm_shock_kit_b4_b44_rear_-_all_versions_/

Is there a better option?

those shocks are not going to work for your truck. Those are for a buggy rear and will be really short for what you are after.

What exactly do you mean by

Bgisbad wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:20 pm Started rebuilding the rear shocks the bottom blew out.

?

Todd

Yeah, Kyosho Option House gold´s are bottom loaders

I´d say take the o-rings, insert and washers out - clean those and the shock body thoroughly and try again. Make sure that the annoying c-shaped metal string is seated correct.

Dennis is right is the wire c ring that keeps popping out under the weight of 35 fluid. I'll take that advice and see if it works out, not too optimistic for the long term.

thanks for the input Klavy respectively was going to get the proper length of 27.5 for the front and 36mm for the rear. Thought about running 36mm up front but didnt' know if they would fit correctly or if I needed to swap out the front tower. Leads back to the 27.5mm stock length, if I go that route.

spent the last 2 days reading up on the difference between the RPM stealth and legacy gear ratio's, b4 top shaft conversion and transmissions as a whole. Broke down the trans down again and replaced the diff bushings with bearings checking that everything was in order, replaced the spur gear bearing and greased it all up nicely. what a night and day difference, but......... when its all put back together forward spinning rotation of the diff at any speed other than turning it produces a off plane wobble noise or like there is another busted bearing. Looking at the motor plate who the hell knows what dude did but the motor cover is bent or at least looks like it.

At this point once the trans and shock issues are sort hope to finally be able to drive this SOB without having to shell out more cash for fixes.

If you haven't done the T4 top shaft conversion yet, here is a list of parts you'll need. I just finished mine and it runs great and holds the power of the 13.5T that I'm running on carpet.

I found a nearly complete kit on eBay and just needed the top shaft.

ASC9601 - Top Shaft
ASC7485 - V2 Slipper Hubs (X2)
ASC9603 - Slipper Pads (X2)
ASC9651 - Spur Gear (81T)
ASC9739 - Slipper Spring
ASC7486 - Slipper Spring Washer
ASC6629 - 5-40 Diff Locknut

Here it is complete.

Love that paint job, sick looking T, clean and tidy.

over the past few weeks I've picked up a slew of parts, some trial and error others are spot on. i'll post pics and a list in the next week or so as it will finally be running.

what kind of difference do you see running the 81t spur vs the 87t? what FDR are running?

blk05wrx wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:33 am If you haven't done the T4 top shaft conversion yet, here is a list of parts you'll need. I just finished mine and it runs great and holds the power of the 13.5T that I'm running on carpet.

I found a nearly complete kit on eBay and just needed the top shaft.

ASC9601 - Top Shaft
ASC7486 - V2 Slipper Hubs (X2)
ASC9603 - Slipper Pads (X2)
ASC9651 - Spur Gear (81T)
ASC9739 - Slipper Spring
ASC7486 - Slipper Spring Washer
ASC6629 - 5-40 Diff Locknut

Here it is complete.

IMG_0566.jpg

blk05wrx wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:33 am If you haven't done the T4 top shaft conversion yet, here is a list of parts you'll need. I just finished mine and it runs great and holds the power of the 13.5T that I'm running on carpet.

I found a nearly complete kit on eBay and just needed the top shaft.

ASC9601 - Top Shaft
ASC7486 - V2 Slipper Hubs (X2)
ASC9603 - Slipper Pads (X2)
ASC9651 - Spur Gear (81T)
ASC9739 - Slipper Spring
ASC7486 - Slipper Spring Washer
ASC6629 - 5-40 Diff Locknut

Here it is complete.

IMG_0566.jpg

I think you have a typo. ASC7486 comes up as a slipper spring & washer, not the slipper hubs. I believe the slipper hubs are ASC7485.

Need some advice.. started to fit the body and had to remove the front bumper to fit the jconcepts body up to the imprinted holes. The rear align great but the front don’t match up at all. The holes are In a good spot but the body does not sit low enough to pin it in place even with pressure
Question is does the body in most cases just slip on and off or do you need to “make” it fit? I’ve disasembled the front end thinking the nose may be bent but it’s difficult to tell. The front tower doesn’t have a stress marks from a collision. So at a loss there. I’d pick up a new 10t nose but y’all know about scarcity and price on those things.

Any thoughts?

Jim85IROC wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:07 pm

blk05wrx wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:33 am If you haven't done the T4 top shaft conversion yet, here is a list of parts you'll need. I just finished mine and it runs great and holds the power of the 13.5T that I'm running on carpet.

I found a nearly complete kit on eBay and just needed the top shaft.

ASC9601 - Top Shaft
ASC7485 - V2 Slipper Hubs (X2)
ASC9603 - Slipper Pads (X2)
ASC9651 - Spur Gear (81T)
ASC9739 - Slipper Spring
ASC7486 - Slipper Spring Washer
ASC6629 - 5-40 Diff Locknut

Here it is complete.

IMG_0566.jpg

I think you have a typo. ASC7486 comes up as a slipper spring & washer, not the slipper hubs. I believe the slipper hubs are ASC7485.

Thank you. I've updated.

Bgisbad wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 1:38 pm Love that paint job, sick looking T, clean and tidy.

over the past few weeks I've picked up a slew of parts, some trial and error others are spot on. i'll post pics and a list in the next week or so as it will finally be running.

what kind of difference do you see running the 81t spur vs the 87t? what FDR are running?

The small spur simply allowed a smaller pinion to get the gear ratio I wanted. I had clearance issues with a big spur and big pinion to get the same ratios. I run an 81/24 and the 13.5T motor barely gets over room temperature. About 85-90 degrees.

And i found this.. can't say i'm that surprised, but that's one helluva hit.

Well that explains why the body didn't line up.