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KidAgain wrote: ↑Fri Sep 06, 2024 12:35 am BL120 with 4.5 Novak Ballistic 132’ drags

175C 2S pack, and 70mph, nice! What chassis is that?



I ordered steel pinions, a complete 48P set from 19T to 31T, and a cheap temp gun, going to try and get an idea of how this all works so I don't burn anything up. This is the first brushless system I've used, not sure what to expect.

The Justock 17.5T and 60A ESC will go in a Tamiya project I'm working on. The 120A/4.5T might not be here until the week after next.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Fri Sep 06, 2024 2:34 am

KidAgain wrote: ↑Fri Sep 06, 2024 12:35 am BL120 with 4.5 Novak Ballistic 132’ drags

175C 2S pack, and 70mph, nice! What chassis is that?



I ordered steel pinions, a complete 48P set from 19T to 31T, and a cheap temp gun, going to try and get an idea of how this all works so I don't burn anything up. This is the first brushless system I've used, not sure what to expect.

The Justock 17.5T and 60A ESC will go in a Tamiya project I'm working on. The 120A/4.5T might not be here until the week after next.

It’s one of my chassis kits (modified extra light non production) you can check it out in the business page under Nostalgic RC bud

Got the HW 120A and Rocket 4.5T motor today.


The HW 120 was too wide to fit in the chassis with the pack holder. Made a Kydex plate to relocate the ESC to the top of the Stealth, and give it a more even mounting surface.


DS tape in between.






This shows the height of the ESC and fan is below the rear posts still, barely.


New 29T 48P pinion, have up to 31T to make up for the smaller diameter foam wheels if needed.




I'm out of T-plugs, so a set of (10) should be here tomorrow, and this will be ready to test.

That's quite a lot of power to put through generic T plugs, keep an eye on them. I'd trust legit deans but I've seen too many of those knockoffs melt. They really gave Dean's a bad name when they are just an inferior made rip off.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Sep 09, 2024 9:39 pm That's quite a lot of power to put through generic T plugs, keep an eye on them. I'd trust legit deans but I've seen too many of those knockoffs melt. They really gave Dean's a bad name when they are just an inferior made rip off.

The T-plugs from Amazon say they're rated at 120A, approximately.
https://www.amazon.com/FLY-RC-T-Plug-Connectors-Battery/dp/B07BHCFXJZ

Is there a higher spec set for sale elsewhere?

Not sure where they get that number, the original Deans are rated something like 30a (edit- rated 60a) and are much higher quality. If you watch some recent videos on YouTube, there is a ton of junk on amazon right now like 5a fuses that don't blow at 15a and terminals that are such poor material they won't stay crimped so just take it for what it's worth, those numbers are probably as junk as the Chinese clone connectors themselves. Keep an eye on them just to be safe. Always happy to be proven wrong

Deans has a couple good videos, this one showing the difference between their ultra plug and the t plugs



And this one showing a ultra plug at 200a

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Sep 09, 2024 11:02 pm Not sure where they get that number, the original Deans are rated something like 30a (edit- rated 60a) and are much higher quality. If you watch some recent videos on YouTube, there is a ton of junk on amazon right now like 5a fuses that don't blow at 15a and terminals that are such poor material they won't stay crimped so just take it for what it's worth, those numbers are probably as junk as the Chinese clone connectors themselves. Keep an eye on them just to be safe. Always happy to be proven wrong

Ordered a set of Deans Ultras from Amain. Thanks!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/deans-high-temp-male-ultra-plug-2-1216awg-wsd1321/p1333025

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Sep 09, 2024 10:27 pm

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Sep 09, 2024 9:39 pm That's quite a lot of power to put through generic T plugs, keep an eye on them. I'd trust legit deans but I've seen too many of those knockoffs melt. They really gave Dean's a bad name when they are just an inferior made rip off.

The T-plugs from Amazon say they're rated at 120A, approximately.
https://www.amazon.com/FLY-RC-T-Plug-Connectors-Battery/dp/B07BHCFXJZ

Is there a higher spec set for sale elsewhere?

Rule #1 about Amazon descriptions: Never trust the description!

I have a handful of the knockoff deans they work for low power stuff fine but they aren't made of copper like Deans. Instead they are often made of gold plated steel as they are magnetic. Steel is a pretty crappy conductor and will heat up under heavy draw.

RogueIV wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2024 5:56 pm Rule #1 about Amazon descriptions: Never trust the description!

I have a handful of the knockoff deans they work for low power stuff fine but they aren't made of copper like Deans. Instead they are often made of gold plated steel as they are magnetic. Steel is a pretty crappy conductor and will heat up under heavy draw.

If I were to really push the amperage, I understand it could be a real problem, my batteries are all 50C rated for now.

Got the Deans Ultra on and ready to go.


Need to fix the rear body post situation, for the Bandit and stock bodies to both work, and then run this one.

How did you gauge the size of the cut outs for the rear tires? There is no guide lines on the body for them.

Brendan2904 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2024 2:50 pm How did you gauge the size of the cut outs for the rear tires? There is no guide lines on the body for them.

this was the biggest challenge for me on that entire build. I simply could not believe there were no rear wheel cut lines in the stock body. Turns out this was because the original DS had an adjustable wheelbase, from 257mm to 263mm (appx.), and most of the adjustment was in the rear, so the body had to accommodate for that.

Try putting the body over the completed chassis, and then draw the rear wheel circle in the overspray film, and you should be really close.

I used a circle/compass cutter, the Olfa CMP-1, for the first time ever, and it went better on the passenger side, which was my second attempt.

Brendan2904 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2024 2:50 pm How did you gauge the size of the cut outs for the rear tires? There is no guide lines on the body for them.

I use the front tire assembly as a guide, lay it against the body and trace a line then cut to fit. It is best to have extra set of wheels and tires so all 4 corners are ready to do the tracing properly at ride height.

How did you attach the rear wing?

Brendan2904 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 7:53 pm How did you attach the rear wing?

I use 3M VHB on everything, also used it on the tail wing.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2024 1:28 pm

Brendan2904 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 7:53 pm How did you attach the rear wing?

I use 3M VHB on everything, also used it on the tail wing.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A

I was going to use gorilla tape but I think the 3m would work better.