HotRodJosh wrote:The blacked out look is pure EVIL.....
Thanks, it actually wasn't the plan for this one After I seen chris72983's dyed arms I wanted to dye mine too. The original plan was to make it look sporty, but screw it, it's gone to the other side now. I'm not sure if I mentioned the paint scheme or not, but it's getting a carbon fiber look on the front 1/3 that looks like it is overlain by pealed back blue anodized aluminum which is painted black on the outside for the last 2/3s. I hope it turns out as well as the car did. It's going to be hard to add decals to the paint scheme too.
There is much to be said about the guys on here that started the old but still new RC10s they started something that many of us wanted to do and a lot of us followed through with. We have quite a few of these builds now and they are great to see and help with. Gotta say we will never stop leaving the already amazing RC10 alone
Asso_man! wrote:that heat sink is perfect to bend your motor plate and/or chassis after a big hit. It may also destroy the wing and the rear pod of the body, it looks cool though...
thanks...I really like how it turned out, BUT yes I will cry if my junk gets spanked.
To protect that rear end, perhaps you could track down one of those Kydex rear bumpers. I have one that was made by J.G., but I think there were others. I don’t know if those extend up & out far enough to completely protect that setup, but it would have to be better than a direct hit.
To protect that rear end, perhaps you could track down one of those Kydex rear bumpers. I have one that was made by J.G., but I think there were others. I don’t know if those extend up & out far enough to completely protect that setup, but it would have to be better than a direct hit.
yeah, anything would help...i'm eyeing one on ebay that is ending in 3 days. I already entered a crazy max bid, but if I don't win I will like to buy your J.G. Could you send me a photo of it?
Sounds more like you want to find a solution that keeps your front wheels down: so much handier when you want some steering
Asso-man was struggling with the same a few weeks ago at a race, but he fixed it mostly. He's using lead up-front to compensate for the shift of the gravity point after using the BL moter and lipo pack, and set the ESC and transmitter up for a good acceleration curve.
Plus he's setting the B4 slipper pretty loose to get rid of some brutal response too
I'll have to wait to see. I want to get it painted before I take it out that way it's still nice and shiny for the photos I'll post of the final product. I am running a 8.5T brushless so I don't know if I'll have much problems keeping all 4 wheels to the dirt. But then again this will be my first brushless setup and first lipo setup too. The anticipation is killing me. In fact the lipo battery and charger are on order, so I don't even have those yet.
Rod if you are out there reading this...PLEASE have that charger and battery pack waiting for me when I come by the shop I probably wont be in town until a couple of weeks.
If there are any issues I will spring for some lead weights.
vintage AE wrote:
Rod if you are out there reading this...PLEASE have that charger and battery pack waiting for me when I come by the shop I probably wont be in town until a couple of weeks.
On the hold shelf for you bud! Onyx 230, Orion 2400, the ti turnbuckles you are missing and a Squid! Squid?????
lol, i cant wait for the squid??? I got a multiplex charger from the LHS, so you can put the 230 out for another customer, but I am looking forward to the onyx lipo and my last set of blue turnbuckles to complete the car...which is still waiting for a painter to paint it.
Building this, all chassis pieces are powder coated black and in nice shape all stainless steel hardware will be used basically it will be a stock appearing roller 20190127_151057.jpg 20190128_165933.jpg 20190127_151105.jpg
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Lucky! I'm dying to find an early offset B stamp chassis like that for my 7001!
Picked up this car from Treehugger awhile back and got some time to fart around with it. EZRUN 9T, Lipo.Grabbed a couple parts from Atlas to finsh of the carbon fiber.Had some gold tubs but I prefer the personal look.Just have to finish up some...
After seeing all the old is new buggies on here I was inspired (compelled) to build one of my own. Almost the entire car is made from NIP parts. I used Stainless hardware just about everywhere. I wanted my car to be a little different from everyone...
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wow 8)
very nice .
I am almost done with my carbon restore .
any chance you have a extra rear trans brace and rear shock tower . :mrgreen:
o is it possible to see the bottom. just wondring how the bottom came out .
Rc10 t black build factory works shock towers lunsford buckles rpm rod ends powder coated chassis pieces carbon fiber look skin stainless steel hardware and counter sunk washers 2.4ghz radio system and 4370 brushless motor system 20190302_202850.jpg...
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Just finished this custom built rc10 t powder coated chassis pieces all stainless steel hardware rpm arms rear hub carriers rod ends lunsford buckles factory works...
I have been a big fan of the original RC10 since it cam out. I race my RC10 for about 10 year and now I collect some. The lattes thing for me is coming up with some cool looking part and make them myself.
Here are some pics of one of my cars.
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It did once; long time ago, but now I use a long sleeve shirt, jeans, eye protection and a mask. :lol:
Ok, so this one probably isn't for the purists, but it's my survivor car from bitd. I have just written an intro piece in the new members section so this is my first real RC post.
By the time I got around to buying an RC10 I was pretty heavily into...
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Yeah - it certainly altered the handling and made it much more suited to my style of driving. It also raised a few eyebrows at the time, especially on the national circuit, but i loved it.