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Looking better all the time. Lots of skilled fabrication skills you have displayed.

I don't know anything about these cars. Why did they put the engine so far off the rear end? What is the yellow wire that runs to the front bumper? Thanks.

Not real sure on the engine. I think it because they modified a Cox Scorpion for a nitro engine. The yellow wire is for the glow starter, i dont have it for the basket case car. It was gone when i got it. U put a "C" battery on the front bumber in between the springs, It fired up the glow plug via that yellow wire, kinda a cool.
And thanks for the comments

Went with a custom fuel tank. This basket case didnt come with a tank. My Nitro Brute tank had to be cut open and repaired...and i am running a rc10gt tank in that truck now, so i decided to fit the modded Nitro Brute tank in here, hopefully it doesnt leak cause it fits great

The body on the "mint" car wasnt mint. Bad tape lines, some cracks, and poorly cut out. I pin striped the white, fixed the cracks, dremeled all the edges. Turned out real decent. I have a new body i will paint w/new decals, i will probably put on the mint car if it turns out good, so this 30ish year old body will go on the basket case

Coming along nicely. Well worth the time and effort! The engine sounded classic in the vid you sent.

After going to OS discontinued site, i was able to dig up a part#, wouldnt u know it, Tower Hobbies had 1 in stock! Got that crap comin! Now the Engine will be a new CZ-R completely. It was only $26 shipped

Also, my new inverted decal sheet came in from MCI
This company does trick stuff, i had printed inverse so the decals go inside the body before its painted, completey smooth body outside. 1st time trying it.
Notice they are printed backwards

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 07, 2019 6:19 pm ...
Also, my new inverted decal sheet came in from MCI
This company does trick stuff, i had printed inverse so the decals go inside the body before its painted, completey smooth body outside. 1st time trying it.
Notice they are printed backwards
...

I've been aware that MCI can do reverse print and I've wanted to try them but I've resisted out of concerned that the decal edge will create a step in the paint and the resulting paint edge will be visible through the body. I hope for your sake that doesn't happen. Please let us know how you fare?

I will, i had the same concerns but figured "why the hell not".....its costing a small fortune to restore it anyways, lol

Your pics have improved significantly. Good idea stealing the surgical mat right off the table from the final scene of Halloween 2!

So much interesting stuff in this thread

Good job on the custom-made parts.

didn't know MCI did reverse printing... that's awesome. I've used it before from other manufacturers, and the results are usually great. Nothing to fear there.

The basket case one with the bent chassis.... wow... what else can I say... how hard have people hit boards with this car to bent it this much is beyond me

The reason why the assault has the engine at the very back like this is historical. Bitd, the first IC offroaders were using cone starter engine from RC planes. The only way to start them was to position them that way. A lot of the early offroaders, especially japanese designs had that "feature", Hirobo were doing it that way too. Also, tire technology was very basic, and the cars needed all the weight they could get on the rear tires. As a result, the cars would pretty much only go straight and then swap ends as soon as you'd lift the throttle, but, hey, this was good fun anyway Where Kyosho had it kinda wrong is that, in the mid-80's, this was already a long-abandoned technology... then again there weren't that many 1:10 IC buggies, so they probably couldn't redesign a car from the ground up for low volumes, hence the scorpion architecture, which was rear-engined anyway. And who cared how (poorly) it ran, it was just to goof around as there was no 1:10 IC racing anyway

Can you please explain how you "repaired" the cracks in the not-so-mint body?

I'd keep both cars, a shelfer, and a runner... and shoot a video!

Keep it up,
Paul

Thanks for the comments and info. As for the cracks, I took Hudy battery strapping tape and put it over the crack on the out side of the body. Then on the inside i used C6000 clear (like shoe goo but better) and spread it over the cracks. Once its dry u peel off the tape and can barely see the crack. The wing was much worse than the body. It fixed it good too, especially around the mounting holes which had gotten large over the years. Now i just had to re drill the mounting holes, pretty easy repairs....the radio box was severly cracked, fixed it like that too, then put cut to fit carbon fiber covering in the bottom of it.

Great thread and top work on these Assaults man, awesome to see! Like you, I put a wanted ad out for an Assault and much sooner than I expected got a response from someone who had one that was never run, only used as a display model in a shop cabinet. After checking out the pics he sent me I bit the bullet and bought it, that was around mid last year. It has a few things missing, I've got a list somewhere, steering/throttle linkages and fuel tank to name a few. Body is box art and not too bad. Looking forward to seeing more updates.


Keith

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote: ↑Thu Mar 07, 2019 10:48 pm Your pics have improved significantly. Good idea stealing the surgical mat right off the table from the final scene of Halloween 2!

I'm not sure anyone on this site besides you, me, and David have even seen Halloween ll, filming generous!

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2019 8:23 am Thanks for the comments and info. As for the cracks, I took Hudy battery strapping tape and put it over the crack on the out side of the body. Then on the inside i used C6000 clear (like shoe goo but better) and spread it over the cracks. Once its dry u peel off the tape and can barely see the crack. The wing was much worse than the body. It fixed it good too, especially around the mounting holes which had gotten large over the years. Now i just had to re drill the mounting holes, pretty easy repairs....the radio box was severly cracked, fixed it like that too, then put cut to fit carbon fiber covering in the bottom of it.

Thank you - can you please help a non-american member and explain what C6000 Clear is, and if possible post a link to this? I need a cubic meter (proving I'm not local to this forum ) of this thing if this works as you describe!

Thanks,
Paul