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The battery cup and bulkhead are essentially the same on the rere (rear bulkhead has bottom cut out but same shape and geometry). Where they made the change was on the chassis. They moved the cup holes forward a bit.

As far as your strap fitting tightly, you can simply unscrew the screws a few turns. You can run a stronger battery strap if you want to make it more secure. This is one that I sell that allows shorty and standard lipo to be used and holds them quite securely. I use nuts or thumbscrews instead of the stock screws

There are a lot of other options for securing the packs. I make a few different setups for them, for example this one that is a chassis brace and battery holder combo. No drilling but you do have to trim the bulkhead slightly. Much better fit for lipo

Jeff, what is trimmed on the bulkhead?

The area that bolts to the sides of the chassis, just trimmed back so the braces will slide between them

In addition to being functional, those are dead sexy!

I can't believe I hadn't thought of loosening the battery strap screws!

Thanks for pointing that out

Those alternative mounting solutions look very cool. But perhaps a bit advanced for my needs.

It seems the solution to the longer batteries would be to drill new holes in the chassis, which I don't want to do. So I'll just be sure to use the packs that fit.

Now, if a battery cup existed with multiple mounting "lobes" that could be used to adjust for different length batteries, that would solve the problem without having to resort to surgery.

If you're open to shortie packs, you can use Jeff's mounting system above, and I also have a set of battery cups that put a shorty pack side to side, using the existing holes: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZH83HYQNQ/rc10-transverse-shortie-pack-battery-cups?optionId=59794612


In my opinion, shorty packs are the way to go, regardless of how you mount them. They are lighter, but more importantly because of their smaller size they allow you to better layout your electronics and have a cleaner looking car. If you get a modern car you can run them in there too, as pretty much most modern cars use shorty packs.

You mean something like this?
DHAWK makes the cup that has 3 bolt holes... I haven't tried it to know what exactly it gives you...

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:05 am You mean something like this?

dhawk_battery_cup.jpg

DHAWK makes the cup that has 3 bolt holes... I haven't tried it to know what exactly it gives you...

That's exactly the sort of thing I was thinking of. Where can I find out more?

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:04 am If you're open to shortie packs, you can use Jeff's mounting system above, and I also have a set of battery cups that put a shorty pack side to side, using the existing holes: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZH83HYQNQ/rc10-transverse-shortie-pack-battery-cups?optionId=59794612

In my opinion, shorty packs are the way to go, regardless of how you mount them. They are lighter, but more importantly because of their smaller size they allow you to better layout your electronics and have a cleaner looking car. If you get a modern car you can run them in there too, as pretty much most modern cars use shorty packs.

I found your cups earlier when searching around

I'm planning to stick with NiMH packs for a while yet. I'm not racing or anything so the weight and performance gains from lipo aren't really relevant. NiMH also better suits my usage pattern at the moment, which is very much grab, go, shove back on the shelf again.

DHAWK sells on Ebay and Amazon. They come in Silver, Gold and Blue... They're in China so not sure about how long shipping would actually take, especially when it's "free".

https://www.ebay.com/usr/dhawk-racing

I have a few of their pieces, but they're not installed yet... in the project box.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:17 am DHAWK sells on Ebay and Amazon. They come in Silver, Gold and Blue... They're in China so not sure about how long shipping would actually take, especially when it's "free".

https://www.ebay.com/usr/dhawk-racing

I have a few of their pieces, but they're not installed yet... in the project box.

Thanks, I did a Google after posting and found them.

That's definitely one for the "possible future purchase" list.

I used something a little different for a stick pack. I had a beaten up battery cup so I trimmed it down to just a base part. you could easily just trim the front out of a good battery cup. Then made a top plate that has some standoffs attached to stop the pack at the top. Using two, this will work for a lipo pack that has front exiting wires. if they are top exit wires, the top plate can be modified to avoid the wires.

worked beautifully at VONATS and there were some spectacular barrel rolls and crashes on my part due to lack of driving skills.

the front car has the brace I am talking about. the battery box holes are original. The rear car had the battery box moved forward about 1/4"(new holes)

I've stripped the car now, except for taking the transmission apart, ready to clean the parts.

I had the devil of a time getting the roll pins out of the rear drive shafts. Is there a modern alternative to those?

I discovered that my nut drivers, specifically the 3/16, aren't deep enough for removing the ball connectors. I had to resort to gentle use of pliers to get them out. I've got some new drivers on the way.

But how on earth are some of those ball connectors installed originally? Especially the ones below the wing tubes on the rear bulkhead. The molding on the bulkhead would be in the way of getting a tool on the connector.

Some good gentle grip needle nose pliers... Or I have a mini pair of channel locks that have served me well.

The mini channel locks are great for roll pins. I think they are 4.5"? I have used the tool that comes with some associated cars with basically a 3/16 open end wrench for the difficult ballstuds. Time consuming but effective