Modern Car - Atomik V2MR

[kaiser]

same here. no point in doing that, might as well run another car.

i'm happy right now, just don't need anymore issues popping up. i'm ok with the ae spindles on there, it's a better axle anyway.

stoked for tonight. the 17.5 class is really good, lots of good drivers. it's a better class then mod atm, most of our feild of 17.5's will smoke whats left of the mod class.
it's funny, latley the mod class is filled with less talented drivers, and the 17.5 class has better drivers, nicer cars and fantastic sportsmanship.

heading to a trophy race sunday and the 17.5 class is filling up with another group of good drivers while the mod class has 2 or three entries according to rcsignup.

great weekend for racing! woooot!

[JK Racing]

quick update on my testing....not happy with my front "feel", going to lighten the oil another 2.5 wgt & play with battery placement.

Current: 4 hole pistons on all 4, 27.5 ae oil in all 4, stock springs all around

rear: all the way inside on top, middle on bottom
front: #3 in on the top, all out on bottom

camber links all stock spots & spacing

[kaiser]

i had a great weekend racing the v2mr. firday night was a blast, i tq'd but got into a boxing match in the middle of a double, finished 3 out of 10.
this is the indoor track i've been running on for 3 weeks, i'm getting the hang of it.

sunday, new track, outdoor, trophy race/season opener. 3 heats of 2wd 17.5 buggy (30 cars).
qual'd 6th in the b main, finished 4th.

i'm getting a little push, might try to move the battery up, it's all the way back right now. i'm liking the 4 hole with 30wt up front, i did bevel the edges though.
maybe i'll try 25 up front.

it will be a few weeks before i get a chance to run again, money is a bit tight atm.

[JK Racing]

I can't run right now because I am on the wrong coast!! Even though the weather is really nice right now in Orlando

[kaiser]

couple of action shots taken sunday:

[DerbyDan]

Sounds like you are doing well with this new car I like the little nod to the vintage AE cars of old with the 'Moo' cow pattern on the shell roof.

P.S; I see that you are not running a gear cover?? This is something we insist on here in the UK for cars with exposed gears (I.E not hidden under a bodyshell) .... i've seen a few mangled fingers from people that have marshalled cars without gear covers!

[kaiser]

the atomik gear cover is terrible. they molded it so close the the pinion that large pinions bind on the cover.
if i was running mod it would be fine, but with a 32t pinion it doesn't even come close.

i've been putting a little bit of cow print on all my cars since i was a kid, a nod to cliff lett. it's morphed into my paint scheme for my onroads and then carried over to off road. a few years back my 1/12 4wd mini was dubbed the "mad cow", which in turn became mad cow racing.
my buddy made me mad cow vinyl decals in a bunch of sizes and now all my cars rock the mad cow. i just can't get away from it. it's me now.

[kaiser]

this coming weekend i'll get a chance to try it out on a new layout at the local track. huge layout.

it's an open class so i'll be running a 7.5.

[MOmo]

Great info (I know most of you are posting in the V2MR thread on RCT, but its good to have some ideas to bounce off people.

Mine is getting closer. Got around to getting the Turnbuckles for the rear done (still need to get them to Camber where I need them) and the electronics are in. Need to re-do my ESC battery leads to work with my battery config, but its almost complete. I HOPE to get out friday with it and shake down run at our indoor track.



I'm sticking to the Pin rear for now (older B4 wheels work and I have a lot since my 4.2 has hex) front is setup with B4 hub and knuckle.

Using Raul for a reference, Losi 22 R Hub and Losi Springs. Can't remember piston choice, but I think I'm going to try 30 wt all around and see what happens,



MOmo

[kaiser]

momo, i think raul drilled his pistons.

my plans changed, as usual, so i raced indoor last night.

it was a mixed 2wd class, mod, stock, trucks and even 1 4wd.
the atomik held it's own, finished 2nd.

right now i really like where it is, it's predictable and easy to drive. i haven't messed with springs at all. only hub placement and camber.
i'd like to try the battery about a 1/2 inch foward from all the way back, but i'll have to drill some holes for the bullets.

i need to figure something out in the back, the b4 wheels fit loose so i put axle shims behind the nut. but that's getting old.
i may try some tamiya cvd's, the stockers are noisey and not smooth. i think with the tamiya cvd/axle the fitment of the wheels might get better.

i'm sticking with 17.5 until there's no class for it, it's really helping me concetrate on smoothness and consistancy and my driving is improving due to that.

[JK Racing]

i'd like to try the battery about a 1/2 inch foward from all the way back, but i'll have to drill some holes for the bullets.

That is my next change

ii need to figure something out in the back, the b4 wheels fit loose so i put axle shims behind the nut.

I used HPI Blitz alloy wheel nuts, they seem to thread "deeper" if that makes sense. They are serrated and not nylock, but hold great. I use them on my 22 and Prolite 4X4 SCT as well.

[kaiser]

i just ordered the wide angle tamiya cvd's. the stockers chirp like a cricket if i don't use lube, like a dry chain lube.
but i'll try those nuts if i'm still having issue after i install the new cvd's.

i have just the slightest push, i think a slight batt shift forward will help.

[MOmo]

i'd like to try the battery about a 1/2 inch forward from all the way back, but i'll have to drill some holes for the bullets.

That is my next change

Are you both running shortys crosswise in the chassis? I have the venom shorty which i plan to use.


Kaiser,
You ARE mid correct? Where are you running on the Tower? A Arm? How about front?

ii need to figure something out in the back, the b4 wheels fit loose so i put axle shims behind the nut.

I used HPI Blitz alloy wheel nuts, they seem to thread "deeper" if that makes sense. They are serrated and not nylock, but hold great. I use them on my 22 and Prolite 4X4 SCT as well.

I'm not totally there yet, but i will take that under advisement. I'll have to look at that option as well.


MOmo

[kaiser]

nope i'm rear motor. using a venom shorty lengthwise down the chassis.

mid motor get no love around here. the 22's that tried it bombed so bad, the only guys i know running mid with any type of success locally are schuey's and one x6squared.

my "wide operating" angle option cvd's from tamiya (for the db01/trf201) should be here in about a week, i can't wait to try them.

[JK Racing]

Post up how those uni's fit, great to have options. I need to check mine, I dont think they are clicking yet. I run the shorty "narrow" in the chassis, not "wide". I feel it needs to be moved forward a touch (using stock springs as well).