My RC10 old/new build

[gregm]

This 10T was supposed to get a restoration, but inspired by the old/new builds in this thread my project has taken an unexpected turn. This will end up being a runner that I'll take to the track for the occasions when we have a turnout for 2wd.

Here is the 10T as it arrived to me.



A short while later and I now have the parts sorted that I plan to use in the build.


I am still undecided on the motor plate. I'd really like to match the motor plate and chassis. Black? Gold? I'll use what I have for now and see how it goes.

[tecnica2001]

Nahhh, keep it Black and Gold, its got a nice contrast to it.

[gregm]

Now I could have gone the "easy" route and sourced the Dynotech arms that are typical of these builds. I noticed that Janus used XXX rear arms for his buggy and I immediately wanted to try those with XXX-CR hubs. These should allow me to get a legal width and gives me lots of adjustments to play with. To fit the arms I needed to remove a little material from the rear arm mounts (approx .030).

Here they are mocked up with the 10T hinge pins.

Nahhh, keep it Black and Gold, its got a nice contrast to it.

That is my plan for now. Not sure if it will stay that way though.

[Charlie don't surf]

Always some Losi in there somewhere , even 20 years later, things are stlii the same!!

Greg, I have a fair amount of runner quality black parts, motor plates ect, LMK

[Chewbacca]

Always some Losi in there somewhere , even 20 years later, things are stlii the same!!

how true...

[gregm]

With the rear end all mocked up with the XXX-CR arms and hubs I turned my attention to freshening the transmission. Gears and bearings were in surprisingly good shape. A quick clean and diff rebuild and it is rolling quite nicely.

Next, I got the rear end bolted together and B44 CVAs assembled... Houston, we have a problem. Even in the most narrow configuration, it is way too wide. If I shim the CVAs as far in as possible it will not catch the outdrive. Yes, pics would be helpful to illustrate, but after trying all of the other rear hubs in my spare parts bin (B4, Kyosho, Losi, 10T) I've come to the conclusion that I may have to change my approach and use the Dynotech rear arms. I'm still hopeful I can use the CR hubs that I want.

If anyone has a Dynotech rear arm on their workbench and could measure the distance from pin to pin I would be really grateful.

Oh well, if it were as simple as bolting a bunch of parts on, it wouldn't be as much fun, right? Right?

[Charlie don't surf]

Greg, use a losi cvd axel and rc10 cvd inner shaft, you can space the outer "deeper" into the
tranny outdrives, the B4 cvd axel will work as well

[RichieRich]

Dynotech rear arms pin to pin are 65mm.

[Chewbacca]

Dynotech rear arms pin to pin are 65mm.

... wich is 2.56 inches ...

[gregm]

Greg, use a losi cvd axel and rc10 cvd inner shaft, you can space the outer "deeper" into the
tranny outdrives, the B4 cvd axel will work as well

My preference is to get the car to "legal" buggy width and I figure I will need narrower arms to do this. Nice to know that there are other options so I can stick to my original game plan.

Dynotech rear arms pin to pin are 65mm.

... wich is 2.56 inches ...

Thanks guys