My old-new gold tub project...

[Eau Rouge]

It is the box art orange I'm looking for. That's the color of the one on my box so I wanna do that way. Can you give away your formula?!!

Heh, sorry no, I can't. As I sell painted box art RC10 bodies through squarehead.paint, I don't think that would be the wisest move to give away ALL of secrets.

[Ruffy]

Here is the picture I refer to. Notice the wing is a lighter color than the original body.


I'm still trying to figure out how to get closer to that hue without ruining the small bottle I have mixed up as it took me long enough to mix, so that I can paint him another wing with a tone closer to the body and with the correct tone of pink.
Heck even my blues are darker than his.

[FordPSD]

I just did it by trial and error and luckily mixed up a small bottle's worth. I don't have a formula and each time Im sure it will be a little different.
I used fastkolor paints, yellow, white and orange and mixed them until I got something close. I did also add just a very light drop of red once, but turned out too orangy so I used alot more yellow and little orange.
Thats all!

But like Doug stated, there is no set color. In fact our paint color is probably not the perfect color. I say this because I sent Curtis Hustin a wing for the original body from the boxart, and when it arrived, he took pictures that showed my color is a little light, it needs to be a darker hue of orange still from mine.

Yellow, white and orange is a start.
Thanks!

Butch

[Eau Rouge]

WAY off topic thread drift here, but I will say that the original color was probably an early Tamiya or Parma lacquer paint. The colors mixes I use include both fluorescents and candies, which IMO, is the only way to get the proper color mix. Ruffy will find out soon enough.




Oh, and white is NOT one of the colors I would use in this mix.

[Toasted Coastie]

A couple more questions for you.

In picture 1, where did you get the molded 90* to mount the shell to, and where can I get one?

In the same picture, as well as the second 1, is that the "TRC 1" body posts"?

ASC8535 Associated 10R5 oval chassis standoff ....... $6.95

Where did you put these?
What body shell did you use?

Thank you so much, there are a couple slick parts you put on there that I would like to incorporate into my last build/.....

[Eau Rouge]

The 90° piece is a JG body mount. Stupid rare, might as well make your own out of .125" Kydex. Not hard at all with basic handskills and a heatgun or propane torch for bending.

The body mounts are TRC 1.75" long on road posts, yes. Same front and rear. They were most often seen on TRC and Trinity 1/12th scale cars and can be died any color.



The Associated R5 standoffs are my new, revised battery mount system which is not complete yet. Much to my surprise and dismay, they are METRIC posts as the RC10LR5 FT Oval is a metric car. Strange move for an oval car, as I think it may be the only one like that on the market. Luckily I have metric stuff in the shop, but it's not an ideal situation, as my thumb screws no longer work. Going to try a couple of other options, I think. They are nice 1" posts, but I don't want the metric stuff on this car.



dc

[Ruffy]

All I know is your body better not look better than the Box Art body I slaved over and painted!!! Cutting the window areas out for the net was nerve wracking after all of that effort.
LOL Just Kidding! I'm sure your bodies look fantastic in person. Maybe I'll send one to Curtis to take a few pics next to the original to see how close you got.

[Eau Rouge]

The window cutting downright SUCKS.

I'd love to know how close my replicas are. I think Curtis is not thrilled with my vintage RC10 entrepreneurial endeavors, though. After the last batch, I tend to think my replicas are actually too clean and better than the original was.

[FordPSD]

How much of the car is paint and how much is decals? Those long stripes must be paint which I dread! I did order some new decals from someone in Great Britain who I guess specializes in RC remake decals.

I've never seen the numbers as decals but assume they must be decals and not paint.

I also saw one of those box art bodies on Ebay and that's what got me interested in restoring mine.

Butch

[Eau Rouge]

You might want to take a look in these other threads to keep this thread on subject...

Here's something you don't see everyday...

Box Art 6160 RC10

Iconic Vintage RC10 Decals: IN STOCK NOW!

[call-911]

The new paint on that Proline is fantastic!! Seeing it again reminds me of how it really was my favorite body for the RC10.

[Grizzly.RC10]

Hi, did you moved the battery cups for lipo instalation ?

[Eau Rouge]

Hi, did you moved the battery cups for lipo instalation ?

Yes, you absolutely have to. The original A stamp chassis front holes were not intended for batteries so when using a longitudinal layout, you need to drill new holes. There were previous holes in my chassis for later era NiCd round cells, but they were too short for a standard battery cup. I am using 1" standoff mounts from a 10LR5 as posts with the standard-style battery strap and some foam tape underneath the pack. There is a cam in front of it to adjust and hold the pack in to keep it moving forward, but it isn't installed yet.

There is no way to get around it, if you want to use contemporary batteries in a gold tub, you MUST drill new holes or be extraordinarily creative with a new battery box style mount system. No way to do it with stock RC10 parts and the OEM holes.

[Grizzly.RC10]

Thanks

[Russ Winn]

Eau Rouge,
Very nice ride. You have a great mix of parts, and it was very cleanly done. I was going to ask about the Losi bell crank, but you've answered my question in a previous post. I just picked up a gold tub, and wanted to change those items like the one I had back in the 80's.
Again, well done!