World "Vintage" GT

[Niki]

Hello All,
Quite new 1/10 World GT class caught my attention about a year ago.
At the same time I was considering some kind of vintage building project.
Could these two be joined ?

At least in Europe the WGT rules allow 1S LiPo + 10.5T motor or 2S LiPo + 17.5T motor.
2S saddle pack is nicely compatible with an old RC10L-type pan car chassis. So this was OK.
Besides I drive also a buggy and SC so the 2S+ESC stuff already exist. No need to invest on 1S electronics.

Then what about the car. Only World GT bodyshells are allowed so the car must be 200mm wide.
RC10LSS and RC10LSO fits to this spec. As far as I know the only difference with these two is the front suspension.
I want the Dynamic Strut front end. RC10LSO it should be.

Next question came up. Does the new World GT spec tires fit to two decades old RC10LSO ?
After comparing old rims and new WGT spec tires I desided to go on. Width and offset are not equal but close enough. Time will tell.
For sure left rear tire will be really close to bulkhead and the aluminium lower brace. Wheelbase seemed to be OK.

I decided to try to build a new RC10LSO World GT car.
This was my first picture of the project.

-N-

[drbelleville]

Yes tires have never changed (mounting that is) you can mount up what ever tires, axle bearings etc.

Europe has the EGT (Euro GT) as running 4 cells in 1/10 was seen as nothing more than driving a big 1/12 car. This is why they run 7.4V with hot Brushless motors. Which they have also done in 235mm Pro10.

The WGT spec tires etc. that you see labeled as such are marked tires - meaning they can be seen by tech with their colored bands. Ala' Trinities old Gray / Black foam Spec series tires.

If you want to run any other tire, they all fit provided the were designed for the 1/10 Pan car 4 bolt hub: Jaco, BSR, RC4Less, Windtunnel, OEM, TRC, etc.

Also for the most part on Associated cars, front ends are interchangable, Reactive caster front end can be retrofitted on older cars etc. You could mount up a Trinity EV10 Front End (was offered as an upgrade), an Trinity (Switchblade) SB10 front end fits, TRC Beam Axle fits, etc.

For the rear there are different offset hubs too as well, so you can play with your overall width of the rear axle.

If you have any questions please ask. I have a lot of pan cars, and can show you a few front ends, parts and answer your questions to the best of my ability

PS: Being that you are in Europe check out: http://www.vip-rc.com/start/

Good luck with your build.

-Maurice

[Niki]

Thanks Maurice. I will keep your words in mind.

This is how the project car looked like after the first test day 6 month ago. It handled well right from beginning.
After a long long break it was really nice to drive a pan car again.
My plan is to drive only on carpet indoors with this car.
The electronics look like a mess in the picture but for my defence this was only the first test setup.

-N-

[drbelleville]

Looks good, and being in Europe you should try some of the German forums. Us Germans (i can say that ) have never stopped racing 1/10 235mm Pro10, and as such there are many guys that have modified existing chassis including Oval / SS chassis to run 200 & 235mm.

-Maurice

[Niki]

OK, I will do that. I have watched German Pro10 races from YouTube.

-N-

[adam lancia]

Check out this forum, they're pretty active and have some knowledgeable guys there, including Markus who just won the 13.5 class at Snowbirds.

[Niki]

Forum link missing ?

-N-

[drbelleville]

Check out this forum, they're pretty active and have some knowledgeable guys there, including Markus who just won the 13.5 class at Snowbirds.

Adam - you talking about Moosi Masters?

[adam lancia]

Yup, guess the link would have helped, eh? DOH! http://www.moosi-masters.de/index.php

How ya been Maurice?

[rctenracer]

Pro 10 class = pan car with 235 body ? Looked at the links but the only german word I know is Betonpump and schwing.

[drbelleville]

Yes Pro10 started as 235mm originally - 6 cell pan car on-road. This and 6-cell 1/12 were the best classes ever. (my biased opinion of course)

[Niki]

This is how the car looks today. It has been driven weekly on carpet indoors.
I finally found the carbon rear chassis brace. Added also nerf bars after destroying one rear axle.
All electronics has been changed to get faster response. Spektrum radio, new ESC (6V BEC) and a faster servo made the car a lot better... and faster.
Fun car to drive.

-N-

[drbelleville]

Niki,

If you are having a hard time protecting the rear axle, you can also try HPI's Aero lower Pod plate - it has some kickup to it and keeps other cars away from the rear axle. And better yet would be a Composite craft Aero lower pod plate, it protects the spur gear and more of the left hub as well (it has sort of its own bumper built in.

On another note, I know many Euro GT and Pro-10 guys in europe have switched to titanium axles because of the increased reliability.

Hope it helps a bit.

-Maurice

[bearrickster]

by the looks of the marks on the body you had a blast I wish I had a place to run my new 10L3 Ford GT I dont have the heart to race a new car in the parking lot and tear up the chassis.

[Niki]

I think I know what type of pod plate you mean Maurice. It protects from behind... right?
My bad hit came from front. Track side barrier were moved after some other crash and I drove a little too close.
Front corner of rear wheel contacted the barrier end. And of course diff side - aluminium axle end bent and wheel started to rock.
Now I have nerf bars attached and the black markings on the body shows it works. My new rear axle is TRC Pro-Diff #550. Similar to original - aluminium diff end.

I saw a titanium axle on ebay but did not find it anymore. My intention was to use titanium on my next project.
Probably the composite hollow axle is also better than the original?

-N-