Well I don't run it tight but I certainly loctite it... but it means you only have the time till the threadlock cures to set it up, so you'd better learn the track QUICK Running without a slipper certainly kills diffs and gears, but the weird part is that even with an unlocked slipper, the diffs die quickly
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
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We run slicks and have wheelie traction everywhere so a locked slipper means instant traction trouble with the diff being consistent or fragging gears?
How do you guys have your slippers adjusted for high-bite tracks? I've set mine close to the manuals suggested 10.2mm between the end of the blue collar and the end of the shaft. I haven't run the car yet, so I have no idea if it's too tight or loose for these conditions.
I have diff inconsistency issues rather than broken gears (which would be explained perfectly by the locked slipper).
For setup, well, the key setup thing is that you setup the diffs off the car first, then you lock the slipper, then you set the diffs in the car to your liking with the slipper still locked, then you unscrew the slipper so that it slips just BEFORE the diffs. Then this gives you your maximum slipper tightening point for that diff setup. The key is to ALWAYS have the slipper slip before the diff when you do a static test. if you need to retighten the slipper (to clear a certain jump for instance) further then you also need to ensure you retighten the diffs too, and if you need to tighten the diffs so hard that they become gritty even though they have new components in, then it means theres a lube problem in the diff and you need to clean/rebuild.
This is one of the bits I certainly don't like with balldiffed 4wd cars - slipper/diff combo setup...
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
So,I'm looking for a set of blue Trinity shock collars for one of my XX-4s,like everybody else,when I saw the blue shock collars on the Speed T and the SCTE 10,anyone know if there would fit XXX shock bodies?
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The Speed T has blue shocks, not blue collars...?
SCTE are blue too, they are big bore so will not fit for sure.
I just bought these and need to know which collars and plastic bits I need. I see different shock part #'s on ebay for rebuild kits. Any help from the yokomo gurus. Soon I will be building my 870c. I have enough stuff to make it 90% new including...
I have a complete set of Kyosho gold shocks, but three are missing the top collars. I know that most modern shocks don't have these collars and they use spacers. I have nice black spacers that look good, but will putting these on a runner put too...
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Here's how Associated shock parts work on the Kyosho Golds... shock shafts are 3mm, so everything bolts up perfectly, without any modification at all. This is how I ran all of my shocks back in the day, so that I could use Associated springs and hex...
I've noticed that the picture of the RC10 on the front of the original boxes includes shocks which are natural aluminium collar and collars which are anodized in gold. Were these ever made as part of the production line? If so, has anyone heard of...
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If you look close the shocks have just been wire wheeled or sanded off no to neat just look close you can see some gold on them
Hey guys, I have been a bit hard on my 60+ mph Kyosho Turbo Raider and I need some new parts for the gold shocks. I broke on of the links that screws the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm.
Does anyone know where I can find a new one? Might...
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Yes the ot210bk work on the gold shocks
Ot210bk (bk for black)
Ot210r (R for red)
Replacement seals are org03bk
And diaphragms are w6006
At least that’s the part numbers I use to rebuild my golds IMG_5866.jpeg
I'm wanting to upgrade my gold shocks on my original Team RC10 to threaded shock bodies.
Does anybody know what part numbers would work for front and rear?
Thanks!
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I think mine are defective. Holes not correctly drilled into shock body. I wonder if I can fix them by just drilling them out or does that bevel need to be perfect for an o-ring to ride in there- or maybe the o-ring doesn't need a bevel?