Box Art Runner - RC10
Box Art Runner - RC10
Long time lurker first time poster.
I got this originally back in 1992 in Santa Barbara. Ran it on the street for a few years ten shelved it as college became a priority. Pulled it out a few years ago, tuned it up and the fun began all over. Broke a couple parts and then realized that they are really hard to come by and e-bay is your friend. In my parts search I found RC10talk.com and a wealth of information. The upgrade bug got me and off I went. One thing I had never heard of was a Box Art body. After seeing a few, I decided to do my own. So here it is…………..
Edinger RC10
AE Carbon Fiber chassis
RPM a-arms
MIP CVD’s
Bottom load shocks
Custom shock towers
Custom transmission brace
Novak Edge ESC
Novak Ballistic Brushless motor 10.5
Pro-Line Road Hogs tires (2.2)
I got this originally back in 1992 in Santa Barbara. Ran it on the street for a few years ten shelved it as college became a priority. Pulled it out a few years ago, tuned it up and the fun began all over. Broke a couple parts and then realized that they are really hard to come by and e-bay is your friend. In my parts search I found RC10talk.com and a wealth of information. The upgrade bug got me and off I went. One thing I had never heard of was a Box Art body. After seeing a few, I decided to do my own. So here it is…………..
Edinger RC10
AE Carbon Fiber chassis
RPM a-arms
MIP CVD’s
Bottom load shocks
Custom shock towers
Custom transmission brace
Novak Edge ESC
Novak Ballistic Brushless motor 10.5
Pro-Line Road Hogs tires (2.2)
- uniquenamehere
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- Location: Ontario, Canada
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Welcome, nice ride! I really like that transfer brace... How did you make them?
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Thanks uniquenamehere!
Trans brace and shock uprights all made form aluminum sheet. In a nutshell, I just took my carbon trans brace off, traced it onto the aluminum and cut/filed it to shape (same with the shock uprights)
The key is to make sure all the mounting holes are correct. Once I have a rough cut, I drill one hole and bolt the two pieces together. Then I drill all the other holes unsing the original part as a template. Center punch the aluminum through the original part and drill. Remove template, file and shape as desired.
(your results may vary )
-W
Trans brace and shock uprights all made form aluminum sheet. In a nutshell, I just took my carbon trans brace off, traced it onto the aluminum and cut/filed it to shape (same with the shock uprights)
The key is to make sure all the mounting holes are correct. Once I have a rough cut, I drill one hole and bolt the two pieces together. Then I drill all the other holes unsing the original part as a template. Center punch the aluminum through the original part and drill. Remove template, file and shape as desired.
(your results may vary )
-W
- dldiaz
- Super Member
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Cool buggy! I always like a good runner, a "blue collar" RC10.
Is that a Nickel based battery??? With a 10.5 brushless???
If so, I bet you would be amazed by the difference a decent Lithium-Polymer battery would make (much more power AND longer run times)...
-cheers
Is that a Nickel based battery??? With a 10.5 brushless???
If so, I bet you would be amazed by the difference a decent Lithium-Polymer battery would make (much more power AND longer run times)...
-cheers
-dldiaz
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Hay dldiaz,
Yes, a "Blue Collar RC10" I like that! Thanks!
Yes, you are correct, old school 6 cell. My brother said the same thing. Just waiting on some dollars to upgrade the electronics and battery. Still in control with my old Futaba Attack but looking to get a newer remote too. Still a GREAT car and tons of fun.
Yes, a "Blue Collar RC10" I like that! Thanks!
Yes, you are correct, old school 6 cell. My brother said the same thing. Just waiting on some dollars to upgrade the electronics and battery. Still in control with my old Futaba Attack but looking to get a newer remote too. Still a GREAT car and tons of fun.
- Mad Racer
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- Location: Vintage at Boondal. Australia.
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Welcome to a great board.!!!
All the info you ever can want on any make & car is here.
Geee that is one really nice RC10 runner.
I really like it. Well done.
All the info you ever can want on any make & car is here.
Geee that is one really nice RC10 runner.
I really like it. Well done.
Vintage . Older is Better !!!!!!! Vintage At Boondal, Australia.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/548133-off-road-vintage-boondal.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/548133-off-road-vintage-boondal.html
- slotcarrod
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
That is one of the nicest runners out there! Can you put the battery in the front to back position? You will find it handles much better!
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
thanks Slotcarrod!
I have actually been thinking about that. After seeing how most buggies are set up, I though I'd try it. I still have a black battery holder that I could use.
Could you explain the dynamics of a front to back battery -vs- side to side.
I was trying to get more weight over the front end as these are typically a little heavy at the rear and prone to understeer.
As always, a work in progress!
-W
I have actually been thinking about that. After seeing how most buggies are set up, I though I'd try it. I still have a black battery holder that I could use.
Could you explain the dynamics of a front to back battery -vs- side to side.
I was trying to get more weight over the front end as these are typically a little heavy at the rear and prone to understeer.
As always, a work in progress!
-W
- Mad Racer
- Approved Member
- Posts: 972
- Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:50 pm
- Location: Vintage at Boondal. Australia.
- Been thanked: 1 time
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Keeps the COG in the center line of the chassis & better balanced.
It will change direction better through tight corners like a S bend. It should be better through corners as the weight is not hanging out on each side of the chassis.
It will change direction better through tight corners like a S bend. It should be better through corners as the weight is not hanging out on each side of the chassis.
Vintage . Older is Better !!!!!!! Vintage At Boondal, Australia.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/548133-off-road-vintage-boondal.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/548133-off-road-vintage-boondal.html
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Got it Mad Racer!
Thank you for the explination! Already bulled the battery and will set it up down the middle.
Have a great weekend.
-W
Thank you for the explination! Already bulled the battery and will set it up down the middle.
Have a great weekend.
-W
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
UPDATE
Switched the battery to run front to back as suggested by slotcarrod and went LiPo.
I then realized that the real estate on the carbon fiber chassis is very limited. Both the ESC and the receiver would hang off the sides or interfering with the low-sided buggy body.
I did some research and saw how some put the ESC up on the rear shock tower and some other inventive locations for the receiver. None of them were aesthetically pleasing.
So I decided to make a battery hold-down/upper-deck and the attached pictures show the results.
My questions are as follows:
-too much weight up high (ESC and Receiver really aren't that heavy)?
-too much heat from battery?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
-W
Switched the battery to run front to back as suggested by slotcarrod and went LiPo.
I then realized that the real estate on the carbon fiber chassis is very limited. Both the ESC and the receiver would hang off the sides or interfering with the low-sided buggy body.
I did some research and saw how some put the ESC up on the rear shock tower and some other inventive locations for the receiver. None of them were aesthetically pleasing.
So I decided to make a battery hold-down/upper-deck and the attached pictures show the results.
My questions are as follows:
-too much weight up high (ESC and Receiver really aren't that heavy)?
-too much heat from battery?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
-W
- RC104ever
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1506
- Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 11:34 am
- Location: Burlington, Ontario - Canada
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Suggestions:
Get a Fly Sky radio and receiver. The receiver is much smaller than the Futabayou are using. Also, mounting the ESC on the rear shock tower works really well, I have that on both of my cars with zero issues.
Having said that,, there probably wouldn't be too much of an issue doing it like you are thinking on top of the battery holder.
Get a Fly Sky radio and receiver. The receiver is much smaller than the Futabayou are using. Also, mounting the ESC on the rear shock tower works really well, I have that on both of my cars with zero issues.
Having said that,, there probably wouldn't be too much of an issue doing it like you are thinking on top of the battery holder.
- Chris
Lots of cars...so many cars
Lots of cars...so many cars
Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
Thanks Chris,
New remote and receiver are on my to do list.
I'll take a look at Fly Sky.
-W
New remote and receiver are on my to do list.
I'll take a look at Fly Sky.
-W
- Lonestar
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Re: Box Art Runner - RC10
not enough battery heat to damage electronics. And because it's a "fun" runner anyway (road hawgs) don't bother about CG being too high and such If you like your radio, don't change it
Nice runner!
Paul
Nice runner!
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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