Rereading the manual I found the timing belt tension was too tight and some other alignment setting not quite right. The missing dust shield I'll have to make out of some flat plastic. I know there's one for £20 inc post but seems steep for something so basic.
This steering servo fixing is better but still not ideal, I saw a tamiya with a long push rod from a rear mounted servo, which might be worth a try unless I refit the original servo saver. Though I wonder if the steering lock would be as good.
I found changing the wheels to ones with bigger rims on the GV Beagle improved the lock, much tighter steering circle.
Also found the suspension bars on the front a bit twisted because the shocks are anchored there instead of on the back of the hub. May resort to your solution of changing them over. there's much more abrasion on the underside of this one than yours. Several not so careful owners? I must tidy up those home made shock supports
With the belt over the tensioner the only downside is the belt not wrapping as far around the drive pulley on the motor so it might slip more than if it was under the tensioner given the same belt tension , in short if you had a hot motor it might be worth getting the right belt , also if you had the clear plastic transmition cover it would not fit with the belt over the top , if it's working that way then you might as well leave it though .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I see someone's offering a red one for 'only' a thousand bucks from Japan. What to name a new thread 'Zerda: back from the dead' PS I got pinions from motionco. frustratingly the grub screws were different allan key sizes.
Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Feb 17, 2018 8:05 pm
With the belt over the tensioner the only downside is the belt not wrapping as far around the drive pulley on the motor so it might slip more than if it was under the tensioner given the same belt tension , in short if you had a hot motor it might be worth getting the right belt , also if you had the clear plastic transmition cover it would not fit with the belt over the top , if it's working that way then you might as well leave it though .
agree on all counts but no dust cover (yet). the belts are apparently 93tooth according to printed number on them. when I file out the 18tooth pinion I'll see if it makes a difference. or make a determined effort to check no. of teeth and length of belt and get some replacements. I think you said yours were 93teeth also?
The 93 tooth belt is for the 18 tooth pinion yes , I like the new steering servo position and if you have a metal geared servo then you can probably get away without a servo saver .
I'm trying to think what you could make the cage section out of , it's quite an odd S bend around the shocks , a soft aluminium or nylon rod and heat it to bend it , it's got to be fairly strong and flexible
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I ordered the hot racing belts , the main belt is fine but the small one is the wrong size . I have a 10.5 BL in mine at the moment and get excessive belt slip so 13.5- 17.5 is probably better .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Oh one thing to look at before buying is the position of the wires on the motor can , the Zerda gearbox has a support ring for the rear of the motor and this fouls on the wires of most motors with wires on the side of the can , you need a motor with wires coming out of the end of the can .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Just thought I'd put these here as well , i model'd up the rear frame part and the frame cross link parts , both going on Thingiverse .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Browsing thru this forum over a morning cuppa I wonder why there's no Hirobo section. There's lots of posts all over the place going back 10 years and more
If you 3d any zerda front arms keep me in mind for a pair. Since I sussed the ct1 zr1 part difference the zerda front arms might be the new hen's teeth of RC.
Plenty of ct1s around it seems. Only for spares and insurance.
I got a pair of zr1 on eBay. The seller put a typo in the description so the listing didn't come up as hirobo. That might have kept the bids away. About £7 with a rockn city castor hub holder as well.
I remember the Hirobo Zerda from races in the mid 1980s. It was a very cool 4wd and whisper quiet with its belt drive. It will be a great vintage rebuild!
CommonCrawl [Bot] and 0 guests