RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi Everyone. Here is a thread on a project i started in December 2017. During the holidays I found a RC10 mid engine buggy conversion. Mind you, im not a buggy guy. It was a nice, clean and simple design with a few custom parts like the chassis. Custom because the gear box was reversed and new mounting holes were needed. There is also an added motor brace. I had the urge to buy it, but again, im not a buggy guy.

then i had a thought ...hey, why not get it and convert the conversion to a DS ? I pulled the trigger and made the purchase. The buggy was in the mail

The RC10DS - Mid Engine Dual Conversion project is born

This is the mid engine RC10 buggy
I got some front end DS parts ready as you can see


Gathering some more parts..


I Got the DS nose plate mounted but im not liking the steering linkage setup that came with this buggy. Im going to be replacing it with stock DS parts.


Front is taking shape...rear still in buggy form


Steering setup replaced with an original DS setup.


I'll be replacing most of the tierod ends with RPM versions.
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Rear end of buggy getting converted


Front and rear ends looking good




DS Shocks and front bumper mounted



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The buggy had a custom support brace to secure the steering post and support the nose tubes. It was specific to the buggy and could not be used for the DS. Instead i used the buggy nose tubes and mounted them onto a set of aluminum blue anodized GT nose tube braces.




So this is where im at as far as the chassis. The nose tube braces are not secured to the chassis yet. There are a few issues i need to figure out before committing to drilling the chassis.

What do you think?

Looking good as usual Alex. What about running a shorty servo, then reversing sides of the nose support standoffs so they are inboard to get a little more meat of the chassis when you drill. Hope that makes sense.

that's unusual, and I like it a lot

As said above; really nice job as usual ! and very interesting project ...
curious about what body you will put on this center motor rwd.

Very nice build!

Very nice modding work there.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:13 pm Looking good as usual Alex. What about running a shorty servo, then reversing sides of the nose support standoffs so they are inboard to get a little more meat of the chassis when you drill. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks Todd......i totally get what you are suggesting and yes it does work...i felt uneasy about how close to the edge of the chassis one of the mounting holes would have been located. Reversing the brace will relocate the hole towards the inside of the chassis giving it a little more strength. I just need to purchase the low profile savox servo i have saved in my favorites and finish the front end

Lonestar wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 4:36 am that's unusual, and I like it a lot

Thanks Lonestar

works92 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 6:04 am As said above; really nice job as usual ! and very interesting project ...
curious about what body you will put on this center motor rwd.

Thanks, The intended body was to be the HPI Pantera. perfect match being both are center engine. Unfortunately the wheelbase is off. The custom chassis sets the wheelbase at 10 3/8 inches, a little longer than the body. I have a choice to make. I can simply use another body that will match the wheelbase, or, i can try and have a new chassis made but with correct wheelbase

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 6:28 am Very nice build!

Thanks Man!

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:57 am Very nice modding work there.

Many thanks!

It would be very easy to trim the nose of the chassis to correct the wheel base. Then the nose brace mounts might be farther back and into more meat of the chassis. Much better than being too short!

LoboNYC wrote: ↑Tue May 01, 2018 12:18 am Thanks, The intended body was to be the HPI Pantera. perfect match being both are center engine. Unfortunately the wheelbase is off. The custom chassis sets the wheelbase at 10 3/8 inches, a little longer than the body. I have a choice to make. I can simply use another body that will match the wheelbase, or, i can try and have a new chassis made but with correct wheelbase

Really nice choice; hope you can fit it

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue May 01, 2018 7:56 am It would be very easy to trim the nose of the chassis to correct the wheel base. Then the nose brace mounts might be farther back and into more meat of the chassis. Much better than being too short!

Very true, but im not liking the idea of drilling new holes for the nose plate when it moves back. Definitely true, its better too long than too short

works92 wrote: ↑Tue May 01, 2018 12:07 pm
Really nice choice; hope you can fit it

Well i have good news. It looks like i managed to shorten the wheelbase without resorting to modifying the chassis.
I used axle adapters as my method of shortening the wheelbase.. The stock DS axle hub places axle perpendicular to the hinge-pin. The SC10 front axle hub setup places the axle behind the vertical hinge-pin shortening the wheelbase. This was enough to get the wheelbase down to 10 1/4 in.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:13 pm Looking good as usual Alex. What about running a shorty servo, then reversing sides of the nose support standoffs so they are inboard to get a little more meat of the chassis when you drill. Hope that makes sense.

Todd, Check out the photo.... the left brace. Its inboard . Now I just need to order that slim jim servo

works92 You can see the wheel on the left with the SC10 axle hub is further away from the front bumper than the right wheel with the stock axle hub.
By the way the axle adapters arent for the DS wheels. They use 12mm hex drives so ill be able to choose a variety of wheels for this project and they will sit closer inboard than the photo.

This project is coming around, lol

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue May 01, 2018 7:56 am It would be very easy to trim the nose of the chassis to correct the wheel base. Then the nose brace mounts might be farther back and into more meat of the chassis. Much better than being too short!

Just wanted to post a "Thank You" to jwscab for the chassis trimming suggestion.

I was trying to avoid the chassis trimming by using axle adapter to reduce wheelbase...but i only manage to reduce it by 1/8 inch. This was not enough as the HPI Pantera body has a 10in wheelbase. I did some measuring and pulled out my cutting disk equipped Dremel. I cut a little over 1/4inch and drilled new nose plate and servo mounting holes. This granted me the 10 inch wheelbase i need so that i can mount the body i wanted from the beginning, The Pantera, and use the original DS wheels. This also placed the nose tube supports further back. This and Romulus22 (thank you as well buddy) suggestion of reversing the supports will place the needed mounting holes closer to the inside of the chassis for added strength. The only thing left is to order a low profile steering servo, install motor and ESC and finally painting and mounting the body.

The bottom side of the front end of the chassis


The bottom side after trimming and drilling of new mounting holes


The rear wheelwell and tire. Notice the center wheel dimple on the lexan and the axle....cant get any closer than that


The front wheelwell and tire. near perfection!


A few more pics

that's gonna look awesome!

this one is gonna be amazing...picture a "slow clap" starting here in Illinois!!!

Todd

The Pantera is a fitting choice..... clever clever

I love seeing a good plan come together. Very (cool) build so far!