RC10 CE updates

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sbednara
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RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

Alright so I’ve got a near stock RC10 ce. Hasn’t been run much, ever, and been sitting for a few years now. So I called associated and asked about what I should look at updating/upgrading. Preventative maintenance as well as running better, smoother. 2 things the guy mentioned. 1 was updating brass bushings to ball bearings. He said I needed part #6905. 2 was something about the rear axles and outdrives maybe? Or he asked if I had the 1/4 or 3/16 axles. I should have taken better notes on the call.

Anyway, I curious if you all have any input on #1 and if you have any idea what he may have been referring to on his second point.

Also any thing else I may want to look at for preventative maintenance or a standard update/upgrade.

I do plan to go through the shocks and rebuild. I would also like to tear down transmission and grease it. Other than that I don’t think there’s much. Sure I do plan to swap esc/motor but right now I’m thinking chassis first before I start to turn up the power.

One more thing, anyone know what the associated part 6802 is? ‘Rear wheel conversion’ what’sit converting to? Truck? Crawler?

Thanks for the help
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YakkityYak
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by YakkityYak »

Now, I may not have much experience in RC10s, but I do with other RCs, and I can tell you this. Ball Bearings are a MUST. My friend has an ECX Circuit, and switched out the bushing for bearings, He says he loves it even better now. Even if not for performance, just from a maintenance view they're good as well.

Sounds like it should be a fun car fixed up! Good Luck!! And most importantly, have fun!!
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

you can buy ball bearings for $1.00 each now as compared to much more back in the day. You can find Boca or AvidRC online, as well as plenty of others.

as for the rear axle question, if your car has 1/4" axles, the guys at team associated are probably telling you to convert to 3/16" axles so you can run worlds re-release wheels that are 2.2" and will fit modern rubber.

do yourself a favor and look up the manuals for the re-released worlds car, and the team car or CE car on teamassociated.com under discontinued cars. then check out the differences in assembly in the rear, and note the part numbers.

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

Thanks guys. You think I can get the ball bearings from a hardware store or something like Fastenall? Thats where I plan to check. $38 - $50 for a set of 16 bearings seem a bit steep to me.

you are correct jwscab about the axle swap. I had called associated yesterday, before I posted this, and left a message with these same questions. they called me back this afternoon and elaborated more on the rear axle conversion. essentially Don, they guy from AE, said just what you suggested. he had the manual out and was citing specific pages, figures and part numbers. I wrote some down, made more notes, and got his email so i can ask further questions.

***One thing he did suggest, after I told him i was originally thinking about a faster brushless system, was that I could go to an all metal gear transmission. i would need to get 2 rear outdrives (part # 6612), cut the barrels off, turn them upside down and replace a gear on my 6-gear tranny (page 15, figure 36, replace part #6614). i believe he said something like no screws needed, use an e-clip and it holds fine. Im sure that im leaving out some essential steps but thats why i have his email. BUT in doing this, in his opinion that transmission should then be sturdy enough to handle something like a non-sensored 3300kv system.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

Can someone recommend me a type of connector between my esc and motor? Right now it’s a straight wire soldiered on both ends. I’d like a connection in the middle so I can more easily change/swap motors. Seen it before just don’t know what the connection is called. Thanks.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by NomadRacer »

The most common connector for a brushed motor would be a Dean's Ultra Plug.
deansultraplug.jpg
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

Thanks nomad.

On the other question I posted about an all metal gear transmission and using the outdrive for that, last night I read on another thread here some of you are already doing that while others suggested using some other type of black gear for it. Can someone elaborate a bit? What is the other option? How do these two builds compare? I still plan to use a 17.5 brushless system which shouldn’t be too much for the transmission. Just looking for durability as I eventually plan to use 2s lipo batteries and get away from the 6c 7.2v nimh I currently use.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by NomadRacer »

The black idler gears are part no. 6614. They are better than the beige colored ones that were included in the re-release kit, and the original. You can find them on eBay right now. Inspect your 2-56 thread button head screws that go with the gears (bearing retainer screws). If they are questionable, replace them also.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

NomadRacer wrote: Fri Jun 15, 2018 2:37 pm The black idler gears are part no. 6614. They are better than the beige colored ones that were included in the re-release kit, and the original. You can find them on eBay right now. Inspect your 2-56 thread button head screws that go with the gears (bearing retainer screws). If they are questionable, replace them also.
why should I use the 6614 idler gears when I can go with all metal gearing using the outdrives? not that i'm planning to really turn up the juice on this rig but id certainly think the outdrives would be a more durable replacement. i do plan to go brushless, just not sure what motor/esc yet. prob something around a 17.5.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

NomadRacer wrote: Fri Jun 15, 2018 10:38 am The most common connector for a brushed motor would be a Dean's Ultra Plug.

deansultraplug.jpg
can i use this on battery connections? lipo and nimah.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by NomadRacer »

The 6614 black idler gears are a graphite composition, much stronger than the original/stock idlers.
If you run an all metal geared transmission, there's no give, meaning if by chance, something jams in the drivetrain, you get stuck in a hole, something expensive is going to break.

You can use the Dean's plug for both esc and motor. Install the female on the battery pack end! Further, install the connections so you can't plug them in to the wrong thing.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

NomadRacer wrote: Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:41 pm The 6614 black idler gears are a graphite composition, much stronger than the original/stock idlers.
If you run an all metal geared transmission, there's no give, meaning if by chance, something jams in the drivetrain, you get stuck in a hole, something expensive is going to break.

You can use the Dean's plug for both esc and motor. Install the female on the battery pack end! Further, install the connections so you can't plug them in to the wrong thing.
Any reason I couldnt use bullet style connectors instead of the dean style plug? The cheap esc i just purchased has bullet connectors already on it.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

Bullets are fine for running around. They are more lossy but I don't think you would notice unless you were competitively racing.

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

NomadRacer wrote: Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:41 pm
You can use the Dean's plug for both esc and motor. Install the female on the battery pack end! Further, install the connections so you can't plug them in to the wrong thing.
Why do the female ends go on battery pack? Is that just industry standard to match chargers?
Makes no difference for motor to esc?
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

industry standard but for a real reason. if the male connector is on the pack, on a deans connector, the pins are exposed. easy to short=very very BAD for battery/connector/and whatever gets stuck between the pins.

it makes sense to orient the speed controller output the same way, this way the esc can't short the outputs and be damaged, and as a plus, if you wanted to run a motor test, you can plug it directly into a pack.

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