blk05wrx wrote: ↑Mon Aug 06, 2018 4:23 pm
Coming along nicely! Those front springs do look a little short. There are plenty on eBay for the T4 that should fit. If it's a parking lot runner I'd chose a firm spring like Red. I use the silver medium spring for carpet racing at the local track.
That is where the preload starts, so I wasn't sure if that was correct or not. I see some T4 spring on eBay, but will big bore springs work?
Hmm, yeah, those T4 springs might not fit. Haven't tried myself.
After some excellent customer service, I got the Factory Works steering installed. It turns out the older RC10T nose plates didn't have the front holes tapped. Mine are tapped now, and I went with some stainless nuts to top them off.
Any suggestions on NOT screwing up my new MCI decals???
I went with the Savox 1258TG. Now I need the proper length turnbuckle... AND Im finally ready for a battery!
So, please help me find the proper battery. Its built for a 2S, but Im not sure which voltage and amperage to pickup. There seem to be quite a few options. I don't want it to be too fast. Any suggestions on shorty vs regular length? I didn't change the rear bulkhead, so I don't know if a full size battery will fit?
Bonus points for suggestions on the missing box art stickers from the MCI sheet. Specifically the White lettering below the door.
Pick up a re-re bulkhead to use and put the original away for when you decide to restore it.
1S lipo = 3.7v
2S lipo = 7.4v
3S lipo = 11.1v
Stick to 2S 7.4v lipos as thats the "standard" for 1/10 vehicles, you could run 3S if you wanted to but you don’t need it.
The Mah is just the capacity, ie a 6000mah battery in theory will last twice as long as a 3000mah battery. A shorty pack being 2/3 the length of a full size pack is slightly lighter and gives you the option to move it around to adjust the weight balance, a full size lipo is slightly heavier and cannot be used to change the weight distribution. Shorties being smaller naturally have less capacity. I personally use full size packs in my trucks but many use shorties, the choice is yours.
RC10th wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 1:42 pm
Pick up a re-re bulkhead to use and put the original away for when you decide to restore it.
1S lipo = 3.7v
2S lipo = 7.4v
3S lipo = 11.1v
Stick to 2S 7.4v lipos as thats the "standard" for 1/10 vehicles, you could run 3S if you wanted to but you don’t need it.
The Mah is just the capacity, ie a 6000mah battery in theory will last twice as long as a 3000mah battery. A shorty pack being 2/3 the length of a full size pack is slightly lighter and gives you the option to move it around to adjust the weight balance, a full size lipo is slightly heavier and cannot be used to change the weight distribution. Shorties being smaller naturally have less capacity. I personally use full size packs in my trucks but many use shorties, the choice is yours.
Anything around 5000mah is a good choice.
Thanks, that is quite helpful. There is a large variety of capacity batteries.
Well I finally got it into a running state. Picked up a shorty lipo. This is my first body painted in over 20 years. First time using liquid mask, and first time using an airbrush. I think it turned out pretty good. Its an homage to the box art using colors I like. I still need to find some white stickers to complete the look. I would LOVE a nice vintage sticker for the rear wing... I got some pictures before we go terrorize the parking lot and ball field. The savor servo is WAY faster than I expected. So Im going to call this build a little new and a little old. My inner 12 year old is SUPER stocked to go thrash it some.
it makes me miss the 10T I sold to jimbo !!
The savor servo is WAY faster than I expected. So Im going to call this build a little new and a little old. My inner 12 year old is SUPER stocked to go thrash it some.
