RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

Back to the welding shop this morning, got a lot of work done. The cage has really stiffened up now. The weight is 49.1 grams. Next is to continue working with the files on the joints and figure out the shock mounts. I have a couple of ideas for that!
cageweld3.jpg
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

Well, you guys (and me :mrgreen: ) deserve a look at the "Tuber" as it stands right now.

I've modified the Factory Works rear shock tower by narrowing it and removing some material from the top. This let's it fit between the two cage members. I have to massage the top of the cage in the rear just a tiny bit. The rear bulkhead is a DHAWK alum. alloy from eBay, I'm not using the batter cup portion, don't need it.

Lot's of work to do... file/smooth joints on the cage, file the bottom corners from the bulkhead, etc. I'm going to attempt a rear motor guard cage. I have a couple of ideas to make it work out like XLR8's pictures showed.
C2Tubercage6.jpg
C2Tubercage9.jpg
C2Tubercage7.jpg
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by scr8p »

Looking good! 8)

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by XLR8 »

Looks good Nomad. To be honest, I was a bit skeptical when you posted yesterday's pic of the completed cage but now seeing it assembled on the car, it looks perfect.
With the benefit of hindsight, do you think it would have been better to use solid aluminum rod rather than tube (i.e. easier to bend tighter radii, weld, notch, thread for screws, etc.)? Was the tube difficult to weld?
Doug

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

XLR8 wrote: Thu Aug 30, 2018 7:23 pm Looks good Nomad. To be honest, I was a bit skeptical when you posted yesterday's pic of the completed cage but now seeing it assembled on the car, it looks perfect.
With the benefit of hindsight, do you think it would have been better to use solid aluminum rod rather than tube (i.e. easier to bend tighter radii, weld, notch, thread for screws, etc.)? Was the tube difficult to weld?
I'm real pleased with how it looks. The shorty lipo slides in and out with no trouble at all. If I can do as good a job on the rear motor guard and the nerf bars, It will be a big success.

Yes, in hind sight, there was a few times it would have been better to use solid 3/16" rod. I had no problem notching the tube, especially when I got those chainsaw files. I got those in just a few days from Amazon for 12 bucks and some change. :mrgreen: As to a tight radius, I just snapped a piece of tubing trying to do just that... bummer. I'll have to get some solid rod for the rear guard now.
It was real easy (for me) to weld the tubing. I did make a mess of it!
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by XLR8 »

"Mess", what mess? It looks great!
Now, if I'd done it, it would have looked like chicken poop or bubble gum. :lol:

It seems a crime to cover all that nice craftsmanship but I guess, since it's a buggy, it will need some kind of a body... or will it? :?:
Doug

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

XLR8 wrote: Thu Aug 30, 2018 7:57 pm "Mess", what mess? It looks great!
Now, if I'd done it, it would have looked like chicken poop or bubble gum. :lol:

It seems a crime to cover all that nice craftsmanship but I guess, since it's a buggy, it will need some kind of a body... or will it? :?:
I have been thinking about that. It will have a sheet aluminum roof panel, held on with tiny bolts and a few side panels. Sort of like a sand rail?
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by XLR8 »

Oh man! Now you're talkin. That will be cool!! :D
Doug

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by jeepnut24 »

Did you use any heat when bending? I wonder if some heat or annealing would help? Another trick for bending is filling the tube with sand, but that helps prevent collapse of the tube.

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

I didn't try any heat. I inserted some solid copper wire inside the tubing while attempting the bend. I'll give the heat a try!
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by GoMachV »

I know it’s for smaller wire but when I saw this clip on Facebook I immediately thought of this thread. Might be a handy idea for something in the future

It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

Hey Jeff. Thanks for posting that. I will keep the link!
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

I got some button head cap screws today from Las Vegas, NV, 0-80NF stainless steel. I'm going to use them on the roof panel and a few side panels.
0_80bhcs.jpg
I also ordered some 3/16" solid aluminum rod today, 4ea 12" long. Hopefully I can get the tight radius for the rear guard out of that :mrgreen:
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by XLR8 »

0-80? Oh my, that's tiny. Do you have a tap or will you just drill the hole slightly undersize and let the screw form the treads (that's probably what I'd do).
Personally, I love working with aluminum and I've been making stuff with it since I made a chain guard for my mini-bike when I was 9 or 10. Yikes! That's approaching half a century ago. :shock:
Doug

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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build

Post by NomadRacer »

Oh yeah, got the taps, tap drill and clearance drill bits. :mrgreen:

Aluminum alloy is a lot of fun to work with. I guess I could go back 40+ years working with it. We
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