My first rc10!

[graemevw]

My first rc10 arrived today!
Wanted one since they were released, dont know why its took me so long! Whats here is all i got!
It will be restored and run.
So far, its actually not as bad as i thought it would be.
Its light!
There is alot missing.

[graemevw]

I guess first thing is to work out what it is. Its an A stamp, the front tyre is a 4 rib with no writing, shock tower seems to have 2 holes.

santander bank near me now

[graemevw]

Came with some kyosho? Shocks
png pic host

Mrc? racemaster tyres


And a parma 33 ford body

[graemevw]

Would this be an early cadillac?
Its filthy, anything steel is rusty and everything had been painted. But underneath the paint it doesnt look too bad.
Ill pull it apart, work out whats missing, then start the hunt for parts. Im in the UK though so bits arent easy to come by.

Ive restored many tamiya but this is my first rc10. Lots to learn!

[graemevw]

Looking at the remaining front tyre


The motor mount
post image

The spur gear


And the underneath of the arms/nose


It doesnt look like its been run more than once!
Its a mess, but underneath it all there may well be a very nice car!

So far, missing, seems to be...
Nose tubes
Front shocks
Part of the servo saver
Servo mounts
Couple of diff balls
Front body mount
And no doubt more.
Nothing really looks broken. Obviously needs a body and tyres.
I think its ball raced too.

Looking forward to this

[graemevw]

This is my last resto, a tamiya 58008 lp500s


Hopefully this car will come out as well.
Im probably not going to be super fussy about it being completely correct unless it comes up really well and turns out to be rare. I want to run it, but i also want it to look period so no 2.2 wheels etc.
Will stay brushed but my only spare motor is a dynatech 01r with a 17t rotor. Not sure i feel a tamiya motor in a rc10 is acceptable

[XLR8]

Not bad, it should clean up really well.
Under all that paint the ano might be very well preserved. Be careful if you plan to strip the ano parts, some chemicals can discolor or even remove the ano.
Also, since you're planning to run the car, you'll want to re-hydrate (boil) the nylon parts to restore some flexibility.
The correct front shocks can still be found on ebay and prices aren't too bad.
I absolutely love rebuilding old RC10's. I have a couple here with me at the moment that are needing some attention.
Can you keep us updated?

[graemevw]

Ill certainly keep this updated. I love a build thread, reading them and writing them.
Im hoping the chassis looks good underneath. I use desolvit graffiti remover to strip plastics but ill test it on something else anodised before i go near the chassis.
The plastics will be cleaned, boiled and then probably peroxide treated. They are filthy! Some have been painted black, some have been painted gold!

Just looking it over at the moment, what im unsure about it the battery set up. I like the fact its been set up length ways, but the screws holding it arent countersunk, nor are the holes. Not good for carpet tracks.
Also, how do you remove the battery retainer? Squeeze the tray?

[XLR8]

Yes; keyhole slot on one end and a body clip on the other.
I've been able to get away without the body clip on my runners since it's such a tight fit.
Do you have a manual?

[graemevw]

Yes; keyhole slot on one end and a body clip on the other.
I've been able to get away without the body clip on my runners since it's such a tight fit.
Do you have a manual?

Ok, mine has a bolt and washer instead of an r clip.
I downloaded a manual but it only shows side to side battery location so i dont know what screws should have been used. It would have told me about the battery retainer though!

[XLR8]

Also, if you assemble the rear suspension with the arm mounts in the forward position, this will increase the life of your transmission outdrives, dogbones and axles.
The downside is that moving the rear wheels forward also increases on-power understeer but you can add a little weight to the nose plate to offset the tendency for the car to push under throttle.
My reflexes have slowed over the years so a little added understeer doesn't bother me as it makes the car even easier to drive - especially on a dry-slick track.

[graemevw]

Ok, thats great. Ill try both ways and see which i prefer.
Ive got most of it apart, only found one broken rear arm mount and the ball cups have had it.
Not opened the transmission yet but it spins well so dont expect any problems.

The plastics are very stained. Will be interesting to see if cleaning and peroxide will do it or not. They also feel very dry. Hopefully they will revive.


Before i go hunting for parts, i was going to put worlds steering on it and some new ball cups. Are the white RPM ball cups ok? I also see this car once had a front roll bar. Are they helpfull on these cars?
It looks like my body and tyre options are going to be jconcepts and penguin. Cant find any others.

[XLR8]

I think a front anti-roll bar just increases understeer so I don't use them.
RPM ball cups are fine. You may want to keep the worn original ball cups for a future shelfer build since the white ones are "discontinued" (oh how I hate that word! ).
If fitting a new reproduction original style Protech body is what you're after, Andy's (painted) and Penguin on ebay are your only choices at the moment. If you're open to fitting something else, take a look at Team Blue Groove on ebay or OldRC.com (aka Sabula Tech). Both of these guys make great products but I've become a big fan of Sabula. His Turbo Mirage and Mirage SS bodies are out of stock at the moment but he does have the Jammin repro body in stock. https://sabulatech.com/storefront/index.php?id_product=5048&controller=product

[graemevw]

Thanks, ill check them out. The ball cups just split when i tried to pop them off so the steering will get boiled before i try and pop the others off. The plastics seem very brittle

I had a play with the nose though.
Whats under the green paint????

cheap fish bowl vases


Bit more cleaning up to do.
Not 100% mint but pretty darn good!

[graemevw]

The big struggle right now is getting the rounded out set screws out the front arms for the shock rods.