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Sooooo......

After spending too much time on this website again, I have decided to replicate one of my favorite RC cars ever, my 2010 Old Is New RC10.

I was planning on going all new on this, but the cost would be ridiculous, so off to fin a suitable donor RC10T....I piled up the family in the minivan, drove 2 hours from CT to Mass, and this is what I came back with.....and then more

Progress:

Cut and mounted the nose plate

Mounted the rear Klein arms, b4 hub carriers, and threw some B3 CVDs just to have a visual, need to order a set of B44 CVAs....

And the arm mounts are mounted on the wrong side

tecnica2001 wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 8:21 am And the arm mounts are mounted on the wrong side

Twitchy is fast

Lonestar wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 8:59 am

tecnica2001 wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 8:21 am And the arm mounts are mounted on the wrong side

Twitchy is fast

Off course, you need to adjust your driving to the car, not the other way around....

A bit of progress:
I might go for the carbon 10T towers and big bore shocks....still awaiting B4 CVDs, turnbuckles, diff rebuild kit, steering bellcranks, and off course electronics....

I'd get new towers and not run the truck towers, Standard buggy in rear is fine, and an RPM version up front. That will reverse the shock positions, more upright up front and less upright out back. as it sits the progressive rates are 'off'

Jeff (factory works) makes some sweet towers, you can get one that uses the built in wing mounts in the rear instead of wires. I can't keep wings on my buggies

Thanks for the advise, but I’m just trying to replicate this:
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=16346

My 2010 And 2011 Vintage Nationals Buggy, that thing was pretty sick and it ran great,

Ah I see that makes sense!

Didn’t realize how expensive things are now for these cars, geesh....anyway, decided to make a pair of nose brace tubes, it was easier than I thought

Well,

Before anyone asks why, COVID, BOREDOM, LACK OF AVAILABILITY, WHY NOT

Used a set of Traxxas spindles and axles on the RC10, which accept 5x10 bearings and fitted some Tamiya wheels, for the rear, 8.5mm hex adapter and Tamiya wheels, voila, increased my wheel availability by 200 million %....

Since I’m a restless RC person, I like to experiment, someone suggested the Custom Works front hex conversion, I ordered A set, mounted it, and it works awesome, the only thing is, you’d either have to use a long shank rod end, or use a shorter ball stud on the inner most hole on top of the caster block....simple

Also, I ordered a Medium Length CVD Kit from Custom Works, and with the GT hubs, it wouldn’t get full up travel, sufficient, but not complete, because it would hit the inside if the outdrives, so I ordered B4 hubs, and used some creative spacing, and it also works fine, full up and down travel

Might order 1.18” B44 rear shocks to limit the down travel a bit, and it should be

tecnica2001 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 6:59 am Might order 1.18” B44 rear shocks to limit the down travel a bit, and it should be

That can be solved with inner and outer shims on the shock shafts!