These are from, I think, a Classic or a Cadillac circa 1986:
What do I need for a battery and controller to be able to revive this ? Or do I need to go with all new electronics...
Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
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Re: Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
no pics coming up homz☹
Tap pic for clarity: Derek
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Re: Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
I am so lame...how do I select a photo from my home page to post? When I touch the photo icon, it places something in the post but not a photo I need...
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Re: Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
click attachments at the bottom and select "add files". That is how I attached this screenshot
the photo icon is for attaching pic hosted elsewhere
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
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Re: Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
Any 75mhz AM transmitter and matching crystals should work with those, but for reliability it's worth replacing the receiver with a modern 2.4Ghz radio. Minimises the chance of any radio interference and basic radios can be picked up very cheaply. The servo and ESC will work fine with modern receivers.
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Re: Will these still work with the right battery and controller?
I still use that same esc in my Stadium Blitzer. If you choose to use a lipo battery, you will need to add one of the inexpensive buzzers to prevent over discharging the battery.
NIMH batteries are still available but common stick packs don't fit well when mounted transverse in a RC10. In-line mounting fits better but earlier pans will require drilling new holes for the battery cup or finding a 3D printed cup that fits. The esc will also have to be moved.
If you do choose the lipo route, there are 3D printed cups available that fit short packs in transversely.
While I do like those old esc's for vintage cars, a $20 Hobbywing will likely serve you better if you intend to drive it much. It has a lipo cutoff as well.
NIMH batteries are still available but common stick packs don't fit well when mounted transverse in a RC10. In-line mounting fits better but earlier pans will require drilling new holes for the battery cup or finding a 3D printed cup that fits. The esc will also have to be moved.
If you do choose the lipo route, there are 3D printed cups available that fit short packs in transversely.
While I do like those old esc's for vintage cars, a $20 Hobbywing will likely serve you better if you intend to drive it much. It has a lipo cutoff as well.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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