Hex axle option

[BeastyShout]

B4 with B6 front end and Yokomo shocks. Ran it at the track with different tires. Really not bad. Full range of motion. Ran the middle holes on the arms and it was pretty much back to normal for this car.

[BeastyShout]

B4 with B6 front end and Yokomo shocks. Ran it at the track with different tires. Really not bad. Full range of motion. Ran the middle holes on the arms and it was pretty much back to normal for this car.

Broke bulkhead #2 with this setup, so I’m thinking the little bit of material you bore out from the hinges is weakening the bulkhead.

An aluminum bulkhead would solve it but good luck finding one. You could go back to B4 arms, but bore out the outer arm hinges, but I wager it will just start breaking there instead of the bulkhead. B4 arms are more expensive than B4 bulkheads, so it might do to just stock up on bulkheads since they’re still $2.99 vs $18 for the arms.

[Chewbacca]

B4 with B6 front end and Yokomo shocks. Ran it at the track with different tires. Really not bad. Full range of motion. Ran the middle holes on the arms and it was pretty much back to normal for this car.

Broke bulkhead #2 with this setup, so I’m thinking the little bit of material you bore out from the hinges is weakening the bulkhead.

An aluminum bulkhead would solve it but good luck finding one. You could go back to B4 arms, but bore out the outer arm hinges, but I wager it will just start breaking there instead of the bulkhead. B4 arms are more expensive than B4 bulkheads, so it might do to just stock up on bulkheads since they’re still $2.99 vs $18 for the arms.

I am not sooo familiar with the B4. is the blue aluminum part behind the bumper a front brace as in the RC10T or the RC10 worlds setup? Since I can't see any holes, I assume that it is something else. You could make your own front bulkhead brace in front of the a-arms and use longer hinge pins. Or you make one for behind the front arm hinges and trim the bulkhead in that area. That might be a quick fix until you find a aluminum front bulkhead.

[BeastyShout]

I am not sooo familiar with the B4. is the blue aluminum part behind the bumper a front brace as in the RC10T or the RC10 worlds setup? Since I can't see any holes, I assume that it is something else. You could make your own front bulkhead brace in front of the a-arms and use longer hinge pins. Or you make one for behind the front arm hinges and trim the bulkhead in that area. That might be a quick fix until you find a aluminum front bulkhead.

Yes, it is the hinge pin brace. The hinge pins go into a recessed part of the brace while the brace itself is held to the bulkhead via two (2) small screws.

Also, I was able to procure a Factory Team aluminum bulkhead (#7990) on eBay, but I had to pay an arm and a leg for it (~$60 vs. $24 when the B4 was new). I believe the bulkhead is compatible with the GT2 as well.

I haven't installed it yet because bulkhead #3 is holding up so far.

[RogueIV]

This got me staring at the B4 that's been collecting dust in my office. Could make for a great "wet" car

[BeastyShout]

This got me staring at the B4 that's been collecting dust in my office. Could make for a great "wet" car

I might run mine in the upcoming Fall 17.5 series on indoor clay.

[8rad]

B6 caster and steer blocks work on the B4.

So.......theoretically if B4 caster blocks fit RC10 then B6 caster blocks should also fit a RC10 with the exception of the hinge pin size and the link being on the front. Just thinking about parts availability in the future to run hexes and have caster options.

[Chewbacca]

For anyone curious. I did one block using a drill bit as out lined and was unhappy with the fit, though it did fit and work. I tried a 10mm reamer next.

I will confirm using a 10mm reamer on steering block will not work. It removes too much material from the rear of the carrier to seat the metric bearing. It fits and is smooth but the rear bearing has no support.

For making 10mm bearing holes I use a .3932 inch reamer which translates to 9.9873mm which makes a niche tight fit. I’ve also used 9mm OD bearings with approximately 2 layers wrapped around to fit into 3/8” bearing holes. Saves the need of drilling.