Startin the run what ya brung build of a Team Car

[JosephS]

Thanks to a whole lot of kind assistance from member here past and present I am ready to start my team car build.
I'm going a different way from most builds as I am going as modern as you can get without making a new car. I'm planning on taking this racing with my family for the summer in the novice 'run what you brung' class that the closet track to me has.

It's been all cleaning, research and buying until now.

Its been a whole lot of research to get to this point.
Electronics
I am using spectrum dx3 radio and 3 channel reciever
Savox 1270MG servo
Novak GTB2 ESC
Reedy 13 turn brushless
2s2p 4500 shorty lipo

Plastic
all original except
b4 front and rear wheels
proline 2.2 rear tires
duratrax evader 2.2 front tires
rc10 ReRe bulkhead 6323
rear hub carriers
rpm bellcrank steering

Fasteners, Ppins and Turnbuckles
a full set of screws and washers from fastener express
Lunsford Titanium pins and e-clips
Lunsford titanium tie rods
RPM white heavy duty cups
original ball studs

Drive Train
b4 3/16 rear axles ASC9670
dogbones to replace universal shafts
b4 top shaft #9601
Avid RC Triad Evo Slipper | Stock 72/76
original bearings

Shocks
Stock shocks bodies
unobtanium shafts .71" and 1.3
rebuild kit #6440
green front and black rear springs

Body
Original body and wing unpainted with protective wrap

Chassis
Original chassis and nose hammered true
chassis protector cut from Xpel Armor

The build starts tomorrow

All clean and ready to go.

[JosephS]

Getting set up

[JosephS]

Tools I am going to use
top left to right
Pittsburgh Calipers from harbor freight
8" & 6" soft Jaw pliers https://www.amazon.com/PH-200-Non-marring-Plastic-Touch-Pliers/dp/B000ALF5EK
soft jaw needle nose pliers https://www.amazon.com/Tsunoda-PLA-iers-Replaceable-RPP-165SC-S-6-5-inch/dp/B07GZQV8G9/
3/16" open end wrench https://www.amazon.com/Acu-Min-51-1556-Wrench-Handle-Overall/dp/B004W8BZDW
bottom left to right

1/8" reamer https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Straight-Chucking-Cutting-Machine/dp/B07JP3V2Y7/
Craftsman 1/4" drive 6 point bits (3/16", 1/4",5/16")
Bondhus drivers
1/4" nut driver
#2 phillips screw driver
500 grit sandpaper

The calipers have been a great help in getting the correct parts throughout my prep. I can know pretty well if a piece will fit or work.

Soft Jaw pliers are new for me. If you look at my older parts they are damaged from plier handling. Almost all my shocks and ball cups are chewed up. I am hoping that these tools will work well enough to grip while leaving the finish undamaged.

The small open ended wrench is so that I can properly secure the small nuts at the end of each ball stud

the small reamer is to make sure that any 3d printer parts are burr free and provide clearance for pins

the driver sockets and driver should be all of the drivers that I need.

I find the hex drivers more comfortable to use when compared to the allen wrenches so I decied to go luxery

all of the 5/8" mahcine screws need a #2 phillips driver. I wanted a nylon driver to protect the finsih of the screws but couldn't find one.

the sand paper is to smooth any rough parts and make sure everything fits nice.

[JosephS]

New parts more on them later

[JosephS]

I started this build by the numbers

It did not go as expected

The lunsford pins and tie rods were perfect. The original parts went on fine.
The first surprise was the fastener express 8-32 machine screws did not fit like originals. They are different colors then the blue AE team screws. They don't sit the same on the chassis, they are every so slightly larger and seems to be weaker. The steering bolts stripped the anodization on installation as well the RPM bellcrank needed to be reamed out to fit. They may be weaker as well since I bent one installing it.

The next surprise was the RPM ball cups. Even tightened all the way down they were to long to use as the link between the bell cranks. They are sturdy and great, but MUCH thicker then stock. So much thicker that the steering cups rub on the suspension cups. I had to change my plans and use stock cups there as well. I may just move the mounting points up a bit to prevent rubbing. How much would the handling change on moving the camber point up 2-3mm?

This looks like all the progress I can make this week. It took longer than I expected but luckily I had the time to get to where I was aiming for.

[juicedcoupe]

Team KnK has nice hardware. They aren't blue but have the correct bevel. Their prices are good enough that I bought lots of spare hardware as well.

If you want blue, the ones from Custom Works fit correctly.

Concerning AE colors, I have received hardware from them in several different shades of blue. I have even had multiple shades in the same package ( full car kit).

[JosephS]

Team KnK has nice hardware. They aren't blue but have the correct bevel. Their prices are good enough that I bought lots of spare hardware as well.

If you want blue, the ones from Custom Works fit correctly.

Concerning AE colors, I have received hardware from them in several different shades of blue. I have even had multiple shades in the same package ( full car kit).

This could be it's own thread, but have you found a yellow/gold paint that is 'close enough' to the stock yellow for screws?

I was hoping to keep with aluminum screws for long term galvanic corrosion issues, short term I was thinking that the aluminum screws would be easier on the chassis and the old nylon. Have you heard of anyone having experience, good or bad, with steel screws on a vintage car?


Is this the set you mean
KNKRC102 Team Associated RC10 Black Oxide Kit ?

You mentioned the custom works screws were blue, but do they fit proper?
Custom Works CSW5283
8-32 X 1/2" Flat Head Aluminum Screws (6)

Have you tried these
CRC CLN12392 CRC 8-32 Front End Screws (Red) (4)


The parts express screw set is just a bummer. I had heard that they were ones that sourced the screw sets for Associated bitd. I was expecting them to just work.

[juicedcoupe]

Yes, that is the KnK kit. Lots of us use them.

If you're worried about corrosion, use some anti-seize.


Yes, blue Custom Works screws fit correctly.

I haven't tried the red.

[JosephS]

I was able to solve some of the issues that were keeping me from using the RPM heavy duty cups all around.
For the center steering link the RMP cups were to long

I was able to cut them down and get them to length using a Husky PVC ratcheting pipe cutter

The cut was at a slight angle but a little sanding was able to fix it.

The final results still looks nice and clears the caber ball cups

It also feel quite sturdy, there is plenty of bite for that link even at the shorter length.
The non-marring pliers are really a game changer. Old and new parts go on without any new nicks or scratches.

New screws are on order and hopefully should be here for the next build day.
Maybe I will use steel screws on a future build, but for now I will try and stick to aluminum.

[juicedcoupe]

Just something to think about.

The short screw on the nose plate is steel, as well as screws in the nose tubes. In most models, the screws that attach the transmission, gear cover, and chassis the motor plate are steel as well.

[JosephS]

Just something to think about.

The short screw on the nose plate is steel, as well as screws in the nose tubes. In most models, the screws that attach the transmission, gear cover, and chassis the motor plate are steel as well.

I did notice for this car the official screws were steel for everything except the bell cranks and suspension mounts. I purchased full count bags of the proper steel fasteners from fastener express in addition to the aluminum sets. I am a bit on the fence on if I will use the aluminum or steel. I like the idea of a softer metal given the age of the parts they are going into. I was hoping to see of anyone has some anecdotal stories from their switches.

[juicedcoupe]

Just be sure that whatever 8-32 screws you use have a 100° angle, not the more common 82°. RC10 pans are not thick enough to fully seat an 82°, 8-32 screw.

[JosephS]

Just be sure that whatever 8-32 screws you use have a 100° angle, not the more common 82°. RC10 pans are not thick enough to fully seat an 82°, 8-32 screw.

I thought that I was. I spent a bit of time trying to make sure I was getting the correct thing.

[JosephS]

Just be sure that whatever 8-32 screws you use have a 100° angle, not the more common 82°. RC10 pans are not thick enough to fully seat an 82°, 8-32 screw.

I thought that I was. I spent a bit of time trying to make sure I was getting the correct thing.

I just wrote fastener express about the issue and they are sending me off a set of correct 100° screws. Apparently they were unaware the classic rc10 needed 100° screws. The customer service there is pretty great. I'll update when I get them. I would say that anyone ordering should drop a note in the comments section to make sure you are getting the correct screws.

[JosephS]

So a few things arrived today and the most exciting with what I am wrapping my car with. I saw a really impressive video on Reddit a few weeks ago about a product from XPEL. This is a protector that is used on full size off road trucks.
Compared to normal chassis wraps it is less expensive at $13 for enough material to wrap 2 chassis an nose plates.

It is a thick plastic material that is forgiving to apply. I am hoping that this holds up to any abuse this car may see in the future. It about the same sheen as the anodized aluminum but with the rigid surface texture you see on coated off road racers. I think it looks pretty good.