RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've wanted a JRX-T since I was a kid and now I have finally got one. I picked it up off ebay for $150 shipped. It looks to be in pretty shape good all in all so I didn't feel that was a bad deal. I'm gonna clean it up and get it running again with modern electronics.

Right now I'm just making a list of thing I will need, one of the biggest probably being some good shape orange 3 piece wheels. I also want to convert it back to 5 link rear suspension.

Does anyone have experience running 3d printed 5 link parts? And who makes the best ones.

I'll have plenty more questions as I go about this.

Pics coming.....

Nice, yup 5 link an absolute must! Nice score tho

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 19, 2022 5:42 pm Nice, yup 5 link an absolute must! Nice score tho

Thanks! It was a "buy it now" and I figured if I hesitated it might be gone lol. It seems to be in really good shape overall. The Pocket Rocket stock motor was a bonus. I had one of those back in the day! It also has RPM steering arms, rear arms and gear cover. And under that gear cover, I found what I believe to be an MIP slipper clutch.

I might try a cheap 3d printed 5 link off ebay for now until I can find some originals for a decent price. Or I can get some off Shapeways, but those are kind of pricey.

It also must have original orange 3 piece wheels. I worry they might be hard to find for decent money lol.

If you want to run into then get the Shapeways 5 link , home printed eBay parts can be a mixed bag and won't be as strong , if it's a shelf car then not such a problem .

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Jan 20, 2022 4:05 am If you want to run into then get the Shapeways 5 link , home printed eBay parts can be a mixed bag and won't be as strong , if it's a shelf car then not such a problem .

Thanks, yes it's gonna be a runner. Granted it won't get run a lot and won't be raced but it will get driven.

Which is better the natural versatile plastic or the PA12?

Also are there any other parts I should get just to save the the originals from breaking?

Thanks,

John

racerjohnbf wrote: ↑Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:20 am

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Jan 20, 2022 4:05 am If you want to run into then get the Shapeways 5 link , home printed eBay parts can be a mixed bag and won't be as strong , if it's a shelf car then not such a problem .

Thanks, yes it's gonna be a runner. Granted it won't get run a lot and won't be raced but it will get driven.

Which is better the natural versatile plastic or the PA12?

Also are there any other parts I should get just to save the the originals from breaking?

Thanks,

John

This is kind of confusing but both are PA12 , versatile plastic is laser sintered plastic powder (PA12) and what they call PA12 is the same plastic but is printed with MJF (multi jet fusion) where they spray powdered plastic powder with two chemicals , one is inert and the other heats up under UV light to melt the plastic powder together , MJF is designed to give crisper edges and flatter surfaces and look less grainy on the surface , there's not a great deal of strength difference however MJF leaves a lot higher % of the unused powder in a fit state to be used again where standard laser sintered powdered printing waists a higher % of the unused powder so MJF is greener has a cleaner finish but is about the same strength , hope that all makes sense .

[/quote]
This is kind of confusing but both are PA12 , versatile plastic is laser sintered plastic powder (PA12) and what they call PA12 is the same plastic but is printed with MJF (multi jet fusion) where they spray powdered plastic powder with two chemicals , one is inert and the other heats up under UV light to melt the plastic powder together , MJF is designed to give crisper edges and flatter surfaces and look less grainy on the surface , there's not a great deal of strength difference however MJF leaves a lot higher % of the unused powder in a fit state to be used again where standard laser sintered powdered printing waists a higher % of the unused powder so MJF is greener has a cleaner finish but is about the same strength , hope that all makes sense .
[/quote]

Thanks for the clarification! So if both are about equal in strength, does the MJF look better? Which one would you choose?

The MJF part should look better

Here are a few more pictures from before disassembly....

I dont really want to use the rpm bellcranks. Think I'll have any problems with using the original 4-40 screws...
Looks like plenty of meat there since the previous owner only opened up the holes a bit and didnt countersink for the bigger screws.

That should work. I haven't done it on the ghaphite chassis but MIP made a steering kit that used 4-40 screws through 8-32 countersunk holes for the RC-10GT that I used for years, though that was an aluminum chassis. Just make sure that the base of the cone where the threads start doesn't end up above the surface of the chassis or yo will have difficulty getting it tight enough. If that happens may need to clearance the bottom of the steering posts slightly to compensate.

Will be interested to see what other goodies may be inside the gearbox, MIP,? thorp? BB diff gear?

It doesn't appear to have had any counter sinking done so the 4-40 screw sits flush at the bottom of the chassis. I'm considering filling the hole with JB Weld and re drilling just to be safe. We'll see.

Unfortunately nothing special inside the gear box. Not even the ball bearing diff gear. Is that a worthwhile upgrade?

Also the one other problem I found is one of the screw holes in the motor plate is either stripped or partially stripped do to the transmission screw being a tad too short. I ordered new screws, but any good way of fixing? I've used JB Weld in plastic parts before, but I don't think it would work very well here.