#6002 - RC10 Worlds Car Kit

[Patiofurnituregt]

Actually Cliff had even told me that back in the day they would grease their gears with the diff lube to help improve efficiency of the transmission. The diff grease is actually an excellent grease for plastic (but terrible for metal on metal, which is why it works so well on the diff ball and keep them from slipping).

The silica in the grease acts as microscopic little roller bearings which works really well on plastic. Diff grease has been used for a long time on the beveled gears of the TC3 to B44.2 as well. Additionally, most of the pros like the Ryans and such also grease there gears, it really isn't that uncommon. I think typically it isn't called out because it is a decent amount messier, and for the same reason that people will think that little bit of parasitic loss is going to terribly reduce efficiency.

[RC104ever]

Mine arrived today! So stoked, I have always wanted the worlds car.

[DMAT]

Guess I'll just be that oddball who likes to grease the hello out of my gears with black grease. It might be messy to clean but It just seems to work for me. I also upgrade most of my trans to all metal gears too....so yea....

[Bottom Feeder]

Actually Cliff had even told me that back in the day they would grease their gears with the diff lube to help improve efficiency of the transmission. The diff grease is actually an excellent grease for plastic (but terrible for metal on metal, which is why it works so well on the diff ball and keep them from slipping).

The silica in the grease acts as microscopic little roller bearings which works really well on plastic. Diff grease has been used for a long time on the beveled gears of the TC3 to B44.2 as well. Additionally, most of the pros like the Ryans and such also grease there gears, it really isn't that uncommon. I think typically it isn't called out because it is a decent amount messier, and for the same reason that people will think that little bit of parasitic loss is going to terribly reduce efficiency.

Interesting info. Thanks for sharing it.

So the Stealth diff lube is actually a superior plastic gear lube over black grease and the regular six-gear silicone diff lube?

[Patiofurnituregt]

Actually Cliff had even told me that back in the day they would grease their gears with the diff lube to help improve efficiency of the transmission. The diff grease is actually an excellent grease for plastic (but terrible for metal on metal, which is why it works so well on the diff ball and keep them from slipping).

The silica in the grease acts as microscopic little roller bearings which works really well on plastic. Diff grease has been used for a long time on the beveled gears of the TC3 to B44.2 as well. Additionally, most of the pros like the Ryans and such also grease there gears, it really isn't that uncommon. I think typically it isn't called out because it is a decent amount messier, and for the same reason that people will think that little bit of parasitic loss is going to terribly reduce efficiency.

Interesting info. Thanks for sharing it.

So the Stealth diff lube is actually a superior plastic gear lube over black grease and the regular six-gear silicone diff lube?

Correct. Black grease is actually more of a high pressure grease, similar to molybdenum based grease (like for automotive splines and CV joints) and is best suited for lubricating metal on metal.

The 6 gear lube (red lettering on tube) would also work but the silica is not as fine, they are both silicone based greases.

[Bottom Feeder]

Very cool. Thanks!

[NickTheGreek]

Hopefully mine arrives at the hobby shop tomorrow.
All this talk about problematic transmission/filing gears got a brotha paranoid. I'm not too swift with this stuff.....but, I try my best.
As far as greasing up the gears, that's good to know......Me, a brothas Greek....forget silicone grease...I'm gonna douse those sumbiches in some olive oil, slap a big motor up in there n go bashing.

[fastang]

Yes to the trans issue!!i must have put together 30 or more stealth trans and result them but never had any issues like this China one! I spent atleast 2 hours hand fitting the topshaft to the idler gear. I was not happy at all about it. I almost put a rpm trans or a black stealth case new built trans in.but since its going on the shelf for now its fine. I really didn't like the changes to the worlds stealth and why are there 2 versions of them?one is the China worlds and the other is the usa stealth we know and works fine. And with as much fitting it took i can't see it holding up to much abuse. If and when i run it I will put a 2.65 rpm in it. I also wish they would have remade the worlds bulkhead instead of telling you to cut the ears off..... until i built the trans i was otherwise happy with how the rest of the car fit together oh except for the antenna screw washer deal??? How did they screw up the counter sunk holes? I am still happy i have it but after building it so far i almost wonder how a few things slipped thru like that. I still have the shocks to build and tires to install but living forward to having it done.can anyone tell me who can paint my body and wing like the box? Todd the box art guy had surgery and has a 6 to 9 month rehab. And its been asked but no one has answered where can we find the number 1 sticker?

1) Yes, we have gotten reports of transmissions being tight. Unfortunately, when we received production samples the gear cases allowed perfect gear mesh and as Murphy's law would have it actual production kits seem to have some transmission cases that were tighter than we had seen before. However, within a run or two the transmission will be significantly better and spin very free. The instructions should also state to use the diff grease on the gears and this additionally helps to ensure the gears spin free.

2) For whatever reason there seems to be a couple reports of topshafts that had the flats machined too deep causing the slipper plate to bottom out on the motor plate. However, this is the same topshaft from the B4 so this is a really odd issue.

3) I have already explained the reason for the two transmission cases, but I'll summarize my reply. The old transmission kit was released so that people can order the old transmission or spare cases and allow a stealth transmission kit to be available sooner. The kit transmission was tooled up to be included in the kit for logistic reasons and to allow the opportunity to improve the transmission. The new case has ribs and pockets to improve the shrink of the part and insure that it is flat and if you compare this to the old US case you will see how much flatter it is, and the spacer and cap were molded in for simplicity. The transmission holds up just fine to mod motors, no need to worry!

4) The bulkhead from the RC10 classic was designed with the RC10WC in mind, so that we wouldn't need to re-tool another bulkhead that is 95% the same. Molds aren't cheap, and this helps consolidate inventory and in the end help reduce the cost of the kit for the customer with almost no real drawback aside from a little work to achieve an authentic 'look'. Otherwise there is NO performance difference.

5) The antenna mount washer has nothing to do with the chassis countersinks being different from the original. The countersink on the original chassis ends up increase the hole ID through the chassis because the chassis is not thicker than the height of the required countersink for a 4-40 screw, therefore the FHCS cone will actually pass through the chassis and cause it to bottom out onto the antenna mount first before it tightens up. Thus, the washer was required to ensure the screw does not bottom out and instead have it tighten down. The original antenna mount was a little softer plastic so the screw would just deform the mount when tightened. If you do not like the washer you can also chamfer the hole for the screw.

Hope that might help answer some questions, it's always frustrating to see issues that simply should exist!

So what are we to do if we have top shaft problems? I do and the slipper plate is rubbing the motor plate BAD! Also, My buddy had a kit that had the reported shock oil opening problem. It actually soaked thru the box. What is he to do about his body/wing? At the very least its going to fish eye when painted no matter how well he cleans it first.

Thanks!

[85Edinger]

Even if you clean it with isopropyl alcohol?

[bully]

Yes to the trans issue!!i must have put together 30 or more stealth trans and result them but never had any issues like this China one! I spent atleast 2 hours hand fitting the topshaft to the idler gear. I was not happy at all about it. I almost put a rpm trans or a black stealth case new built trans in.but since its going on the shelf for now its fine. I really didn't like the changes to the worlds stealth and why are there 2 versions of them?one is the China worlds and the other is the usa stealth we know and works fine. And with as much fitting it took i can't see it holding up to much abuse. If and when i run it I will put a 2.65 rpm in it. I also wish they would have remade the worlds bulkhead instead of telling you to cut the ears off..... until i built the trans i was otherwise happy with how the rest of the car fit together oh except for the antenna screw washer deal??? How did they screw up the counter sunk holes? I am still happy i have it but after building it so far i almost wonder how a few things slipped thru like that. I still have the shocks to build and tires to install but living forward to having it done.can anyone tell me who can paint my body and wing like the box? Todd the box art guy had surgery and has a 6 to 9 month rehab. And its been asked but no one has answered where can we find the number 1 sticker?

1) Yes, we have gotten reports of transmissions being tight. Unfortunately, when we received production samples the gear cases allowed perfect gear mesh and as Murphy's law would have it actual production kits seem to have some transmission cases that were tighter than we had seen before. However, within a run or two the transmission will be significantly better and spin very free. The instructions should also state to use the diff grease on the gears and this additionally helps to ensure the gears spin free.

2) For whatever reason there seems to be a couple reports of topshafts that had the flats machined too deep causing the slipper plate to bottom out on the motor plate. However, this is the same topshaft from the B4 so this is a really odd issue.

3) I have already explained the reason for the two transmission cases, but I'll summarize my reply. The old transmission kit was released so that people can order the old transmission or spare cases and allow a stealth transmission kit to be available sooner. The kit transmission was tooled up to be included in the kit for logistic reasons and to allow the opportunity to improve the transmission. The new case has ribs and pockets to improve the shrink of the part and insure that it is flat and if you compare this to the old US case you will see how much flatter it is, and the spacer and cap were molded in for simplicity. The transmission holds up just fine to mod motors, no need to worry!

4) The bulkhead from the RC10 classic was designed with the RC10WC in mind, so that we wouldn't need to re-tool another bulkhead that is 95% the same. Molds aren't cheap, and this helps consolidate inventory and in the end help reduce the cost of the kit for the customer with almost no real drawback aside from a little work to achieve an authentic 'look'. Otherwise there is NO performance difference.

5) The antenna mount washer has nothing to do with the chassis countersinks being different from the original. The countersink on the original chassis ends up increase the hole ID through the chassis because the chassis is not thicker than the height of the required countersink for a 4-40 screw, therefore the FHCS cone will actually pass through the chassis and cause it to bottom out onto the antenna mount first before it tightens up. Thus, the washer was required to ensure the screw does not bottom out and instead have it tighten down. The original antenna mount was a little softer plastic so the screw would just deform the mount when tightened. If you do not like the washer you can also chamfer the hole for the screw.

Hope that might help answer some questions, it's always frustrating to see issues that simply should exist!

So what are we to do if we have top shaft problems? I do and the slipper plate is rubbing the motor plate BAD! Also, My buddy had a kit that had the reported shock oil opening problem. It actually soaked thru the box. What is he to do about his body/wing? At the very least its going to fish eye when painted no matter how well he cleans it first.

Thanks!

I would contact them first to see if they can help you,I'm sure they would they have the best cs around... Quick fix for rubbing slipper plate is the b4 top shaft spacer and open case hole slightly to allow spacer to sit on bearing... They might just send you a new one but no guarantees it ain't gonna be the same... Since my first try at the top shaft conversion three or four years ago when I ran into the problem I stocked up on the spacer and order at least one or two every time I do any order from the USA...

[aeiou]

Without question, the tolerances with the gear mesh are much tighter on this new transmission case versus the older one - at least with the one I worked on tonight. I had to do some filing & de-burring on the top shaft gear to get it to spin decently. It's not where it needs to be, and will take some additional tuning to get it race ready, but it'll get there. Interestingly enough, even before I messed with that top shaft, I dropped the World's gears into the ReRe USA Stealth case and it spun pretty good right out of the box. The tolerances are noticeably looser in that case. **

As an alternative to using the spacer on the antenna mount, you can countersink the hole on the mount slightly to account for the tapered part of the screw that extends above the chassis bottom. That's what I did and it allows the mount to sit flush without deforming the mount.

[Patiofurnituregt]

@ fastang, please email [email protected]. Don is one of our customer service guys and is pretty familiar with all RC10 related kit issues. In the case of the topshaft, just get in touch with Don and he will most certainly take care of you.

For those of you that are reporting 'rough' topshaft gears, could you please email Don any pictures you have in case there is a reoccurring issue with them that needs to be addressed.

In regards to the body, I would imagine that a couple good washes with some liquid dish soap (like Palm Olive) should do the trick and clean it up.

-Tim

[RC10th]

Just curious about those of us overseas? We havn't gotten ours yet but if we run into the same problem do we go back to the distributor or AE direct? I suppose it depends on where the kits are purchased from?

[Oozzee]

This is sweet, have a B5M and a worlds coming on Monday, hoping like made that I don't have any dramas with the kits , looking forward to building these while the wife and kids are away next week, no sleep here we come

[abailey21]

I'm with Oozzee!

Got my RERE Classic a while back, barely started building it, got my B5 Rear two weeks ago, havent built it, and now my worlds RERE is sitting here!

Just got a job near one of the coolest tracks in the country, so I'll finally get to race and run again

Life for an Associated fan is looking pretty good right now!