Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

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mAdMan
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Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by mAdMan »

It dawned upon me not long ago that rear hubs are the same as front bearing T4/SC10 hubs. So you can use any 3/16 rear stub axle (CVD or Bone stub axle) to convert to front hex. Just hack off the bone cup or ball joint.

You can finally use those chewed up rear stub axles. Enjoy. 🤘
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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by KidAgain »

Can you elaborate a little more or show me a completed assembly, I think your onto something major bud...............
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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by Faux4x4 »

I would guess you use a bearing crush tube, and also curious if there is any king pin clearance issues.

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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by mAdMan »

KidAgain wrote: Mon Apr 05, 2021 9:08 am Can you elaborate a little more or show me a completed assembly, I think your onto something major bud...............
You can just cut off the ball/cup end of the stub axle so it can rotate in the front assembly freely.

You can use an old stub axle in an old rear hub, or use it in a new SC10 front steering block. Either way is fine. You will need crush washers for longevity. Or just buy a 10 pack of bearings and use a lightly tightened nylon locknut on the front wheels.

When I find some time I’ll set up a pair. But I don’t need one so not sure when I will.

It should be pretty straight forward though.

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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by mAdMan »

Visual comparison
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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by juicedcoupe »

With the dogbone cup removed, it would basically look like a 3/16 version of a Traxxas axle. FWIW, Traxxas vehicles don't use crush tubes on the axles. You just can't run the endplay as tight. Also, the bearings on a Traxxas (5X11X4) are much more substantial.
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Re: Front hex conversion using old broken stub axles

Post by mAdMan »

juicedcoupe wrote: Mon Apr 05, 2021 5:35 pm With the dogbone cup removed, it would basically look like a 3/16 version of a Traxxas axle. FWIW, Traxxas vehicles don't use crush tubes on the axles. You just can't run the endplay as tight. Also, the bearings on a Traxxas (5X11X4) are much more substantial.
I just realized this morning that 3/16” all thread with a well placed hole drilled in it, and 2 pair of thin “low clearance” nuts jammed on either side up against the bearings would net one some very cheap axles.


Actually, another thought. Get the Outer pair of nuts not low clearance, in 12mm, and forget the hole/pin.

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