Kyosho Javelin Legendary series - 30618

[silvertriple]

Hello!



While I'm waiting to restart the Marui Hunter project, I decided to start the build of the Javelin which was sitting under my desk for the last few months...

The opened box is as usual nice and clean. Almost tempted to keep it this way, but that's not possible for me . I'll break some blisters today!

For the small story, the chain is delivered in this kit while it is an option in the Turbo Optima kit (I have the pic of the other box, but as it is planed for later, you can't see it )

Metal parts bag A. We start by the diffs. That's basically when you will have to choose between belt or chain. It will be belt for me, as I intend to use this car with a brushless setup.






Then, we prepare the rear diff box, with the ball bearings...


We add it the diff, the belt and the final gear...


and we close the box...


Next is part metal bag B, and front diff box...


After having closed it, we add the belt channels top and bottom, before adding the wing mount, and to fix the main chassis, the rear plate and the motor protection (and yes, sorry, I forgot a few pics :-/ )


Like with the Turbo Scorpion, the instruction manual is very clear and the elements requiring attention are particularly highlighted... I'll probably spend less time to build it than the Turbo Scorpion, at least because paint will not take much time with this build...

Next steps in some days...

[silvertriple]

I've restarted few days later. I'm using the diner table, so sometimes I need to wait it to be available as my wife and kids are using it as well for other activities (I like to work with space, and organized myself to be able to put my stuff in place and remove it easily...

Metal parts bag C starts.

Front guard is installed


and central support for the belt covers


Then installation of the servo saver links


NB: for those building an Optima/Turbo Optima or Javelin, you may want to go further to complete the rods and attach them to the servo saver to ease the servo step which is later in the instructions, as later it will be very much difficult. I take note for when I'll built the Turbo Optima


Then it is time for the front side plates


and the slipper clutch...



The metal parts bag C finish by the upper rods.


We continue with Metal parts bag D
Shock stays are joining the chassis as well as the upper rods


At next step, the suspension arms are joining the chassis...


And then we prepare front hubs...


Which join the chassis at next step. The most difficult in this is to put the e-clips in place on the lower link...


And Metal parts bag D is finished...

Bag E starts by tie rods


then it's time for rear hubs...


Which are joining the chassis (again with e-clip)...


Then, we prepare the upper pate and battery holder...


And the chassis really start to shape at the end of bag E.


Time for bag F. It starts by preparing the tools which will be used to mount the shocks and to put in place the shock gaskets (it was the same with the Turbo Scorpion, it's not easy, but after having mounted one set it is definitely easier)


For next step, each time I mount shocks, I'm used to lay down the parts before starting a step...


Then we start by put the shock pistons together and then we prepare next step


and we finish to put the shock pistons together with their ends


And we finally close the shocks


Next comes the springs, and the shocks join the chassis


Next step is the bumper. There is two models in the kit: one small and one large. I put the large one as it reminds me my teenager times...


Next I did change slightly the order if the steps for the electronics...
I started by the steering servo. The link is difficult to put in place. Ideally, this must be anticipated when mounting the servo saver)



Then I mounted the RX (I checked with the driver body the position is right).



Next is the spur gear... I verified the motor can go there (was having a doubt at that time - see note at the end)


It was time for the lunch, so I did not have a chance to put the ESC in place. I restarted later on in the afternoon.

The ESC is a Performa Racing P1, and it is the same as the Kyosho except the color and the price (it is cheaper than the Kyosho one)... It is a fanless ESC, and I put it under the radio plate to help for the cooling. The motor cables will find their place along the rear roll cage



And that closes the bag F. I did not glue the tires yet...

Bag G is the final one. it starts by the wheels nut and the setting of the lower roll cages...


At next step, we add the rear roll cage and the wing (which is fixed using two body clips). I added zip ties to secure the motor cables...


Next is the lateral sides of the roll cage...


which joins together at next step..


And here is on the chassis


Next will be stickers, and pilot paintjob. But that won't be today as the weather is not good...

Note: The motor guard would be better if a bit smaller (or I did not make it correctly as it is very close to the contacts from the motor)...

[silvertriple]

Changed the motor position, and it's better on the contact side (can't go on the other side, as it would go against the roll cage)

[Coelacanth]

Yeah, I don't like that proximity of the motor protector and contacts, either. The position of the motor leads doesn't seem conducive to easy shrink-wrapping. Here's an idea though, you could brush on some coats of Plasti-Dip over the exposed contacts' solder joints. It'll come out gloss black and looks just like black silicone wire insulation. You could even make it pretty neat and tidy by cutting and applying some masking tape to let you apply the Plasti-Dip more neatly.

[silvertriple]

Very good tip. I was thinking to silicone conformal coating... More or less the same idea, somehow...

[Dadio]

There is a product "liquid electrical tape " just for this purpose , I often use it either alone or inside shrink wrap to make truly water tight joints , commonly known as LET .

[silvertriple]

There is a product "liquid electrical tape " just for this purpose , I often use it either alone or inside shrink wrap to make truly water tight joints , commonly known as LET .

I have some plasti dip somewhere (I used it on the belly pan of of motorbike some time ago, and there should be some remaining). Good idea, I will use this.

On the other side, I made some progress on the driver of my Javelin (It always disturbs me when there is no driver in a buggy )



Next and last steps : stickers (although I'm undecided here - It may take some time until I decide what I do )

[silvertriple]

Today's focus was to finish the driver...

First, I build a visor and add small oval kyosho logo on the helmet...



Then used some paint markers to do the details on the harness





I'm very happy with that, I won't apply more stickers for the driver.

He was then installed in his car for a small photoshoot on the table...









I've not decided yet for the roll cage stickers... I will sleep on this and ideas will come...

[silvertriple]

 A last set of pics, as I just finished my Javelin...



Driver is focused, not sure if it good or not, but he's ready to race

I decided to remove the 20 before the 9, as I like to put the 9 on my cars






The fact is, the roll cage don't give much choice beside box art variations... It's light and I like it this way... It will be soon time to run, with more modern wheels likely (I may paint the marking on this nice wheels for shelf purpose)...

In summary, nice build, and it's really tempting to have a chain variant for it. I've added an Optima (chain driven, Brushed 540 silver can set up) to the wish list... Time will tell.

[silvertriple]

I like to run my r/c cars at night, so I need to add lights to my Javelin...

Working out a part for the front


Test print in progress, results later...

[XLR8]

This is a very nicely documented build thread for the re-re Javelin. Thank you for posting it here.

I have to agree with you about running RC's at night. Most of my trail trucks are fully lighted and it's a lot of fun to run them around in the yard in the evenings and especially at dusk when there is still a little ambient sun light. The light they cast against the ground and other objects looks very similar to that in the full scale world.

[silvertriple]

I reworked the front led bucket attachement as I found the first one too large.
I also designed a part for the rear side.
Front is supposed to be used with light buckets (any available on ebay should do it), and rear is supposed to work with standard 5mm red leds.


Mounted on the Javelin, withouth leds or light buckets at the moment



Parts are available on Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4938849

[XLR8]

Very nice work!
I see you've used a Kyosho approved fastener to attach the mount to the front skid plate. That's a nice little throw-back to the original Javelin.
Looking forward to seeing the completed installation.

[silvertriple]

Almost worked as planned

Javelin has now lights... I will update the thread and repost the parts on Thingiverse as it seem my original publication is not visible, not sure why...





I need to order leds again, as stock is completely gone...

Parts are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4925173

[silvertriple]

A bit of teasing...
Soon I will add another Kyosho build thread