Marui Hunter - My first buggy... Found one to restore :-) - and a Galaxy RS too :)

[HiTec]

Thank you, this information is perfect!

[silvertriple]

First thing this morning, I ordered screws to complete my part set. They should allow me to build all the kits.

Next is calculation (based on the question : would be a brushless fitting those cars? (someone was asking this question on another forum)

It's all about ratios, so I calculated those

Motor pinion choices are 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 (assuming modern pinion to complete the set).
Idle gear is 48T/28T
Differential is 60T

Internal ratios would give with the motor pinions the following

18T: 8.00
19T: 7.58
20T: 7.20
21T: 6.86
22T: 6.55
I also assume the motor mount could be modified to be able to mount smaller pinions, or biggest ones (but then the motor cover would be an issue).
Ultimately, from what I found on internet in terms of recommended ratios for motors, it seems a 15.5T could work well with a 22T and a 6.55 ratio... Tires, although very vintage, have the same external diameter as a modern 2.2 inches buggy wheel, so I didn't factor this in, as the recommendations are mentioned in the chart I found for standard sized rubber tires. (and I won't go for a 13.5 or 10.5T motor there, I believe the idle gear would not survive)

For reference, the chart I found (it was on another topic on RC10Talk, if I remember well)

[silvertriple]

Finally decided to do the paint the Hunter saved body shell. As there is still some small traces of blue here and there, I'll have to compose with that...

Roof will have to be dark blue, roll bars will be black, white on the bonnet and the rear


Light blue on the middle...


... and dark blue on the bottom (same color as the roof)


but as there is no overspray film, I have to mask the top as well... Not that comfortable with this, as it will make difficult to see the masking and painting issues to correct. That will be challenging...

[silvertriple]

Painting a body without visual feedback with a transparent overspray film is challenging.

After the paint here is the final result




Blue traces even appear where I did not saw them, but with the time I spend on this car, I love this body, and the blue traces in the white will remind its history. I'll do something else when I get a chance to order a TBG body for this car...

In the meantime, It is doing it.

[silvertriple]

Few pics of the body on the car... The driver remain to be done (Ideally, I should make a 3D scan of the driver before doing the paint)

[silvertriple]

Ordered the servo and esc for remaining builds (And unexpectedly won an auction on ebay saturday by putting a bid 2 seconds before it ended, with a package now on the way - looking forward for it).

[Coelacanth]

The paint turned out great, IMO it sure looks a lot nicer than the box-art paint scheme.

[HiTec]

Great work as always!

Just sent you the .stl:s for updated custom idlers (2 different designs) and the radio lid. I hope they work nicely.

Also eager to see how you like those Super Arms.

[silvertriple]

Great work as always!

Just sent you the .stl:s for updated custom idlers (2 different designs) and the radio lid. I hope they work nicely.

Also eager to see how you like those Super Arms.

Thanks a lot!

I have a list of prints in MJF PA12 piling up... But need first reset my Creality to check dimensions... I'm really curious for those Super Arms, I noticed that for the first Hunter I mounted (with brand new arms, the movement did not feel satisfactory, until I finished the build... But I'm curious to see how ball bearing would change them... I may need to order additional unplanned hardware for this. And for sur I'll include a set in my next MJF PA12 printed box

I'll give an update when I'll have unjammed my printer... And in any case, the "on the way package" should land in my home on Monday or Tuesday. I will have to unbuilt the content to understand what potential missing elements I still have to get in complement (will only know when I will have it in hands).

[HiTec]

That sounds like a plan!

Yea, there are lots of different ways you can use those arms, but i do recommend using the screw and ball bearing method, so the chassis doesnt wear out in use. With MJF-printing the "stock style" should also be good, even without the reinforcement screw.

As for the balljoints, these are what i tested on my chassis: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124608332112?hash=item1d033c4150:g:YnUAAOSwRZpgP1LB

But bear in mind, the quality varies lot in those. I didnt have a two same tolerance balljoints (the moving part) in the whole 20pcs set that i ordered about year ago, so... But yea, they get the job done and are cheap to change.

[silvertriple]

@HiTec
I dropped you a mail after looking at precise measurements. Did not print yet, however, I had an unexpected issue while I was about to start working out the printer... I guess this going to be tomorrow...

[HiTec]

@ HiTec
I dropped you a mail after looking at precise measurements. Did not print yet, however, I had an unexpected issue while I was about to start working out the printer... I guess this going to be tomorrow...

Okay, thank you! I'll try to check it out tomorrow.

[silvertriple]

The package arrived today, and waited patiently I'm home to get opened...

I'm please to say now that if have no more reasons to keep my active search for Marui Hunter or Galaxy on ebay and other sites, as here is what I received today:






Yes, it is a Marui Galaxy, THE red Marui Galaxy, with all its red parts, and its Marui 360RS motor (550 size cage). The chassis is unfortunately broken, but I have already another black chassis in proper state to replace it. I will inspect the chassis as soon as I can unbuilt this car, but looking at the state of the bottom, I believe it was lightly used, so I may give it another life as repaired Hunter or Ganter chassis

And I really need to suppress the Marui search as well for some other reason (reason that I'll only disclose when I have proper pictures, as my father went to get the thing for me) (nb: I will have to open another thread for that one reason!)

[silvertriple]

Today, while at work, the tire issue was running in background the whole day in my brain...

I know the Scorpion/Tomahawk/Beetle tire can sit on the rim, but it needs to be glued. And while I don't really care about the white rims, it's not the case of the metal plated ones. Gluing the tire on them would also mean that I would loose the metal plated finish at the time I'm going to unglue them, and this whatever the method being used... Ultimately, there is 2 ways:
- finding another alternatives that is more convenient to work with
- finding a way to fix the tire to the rim without gluing them to the rim

Here is a picture of the rim, the Kyosho Scorpion re-release tire and it's foam insert (without it, the tire runs flat)


Taking into account what is done normally on a Scorpion rim, the part of the tire glued on the Scorpion rim is on each side of 5mm large by 2mm thick, I thought about a printed insert which would fix the tire by the inside of the tire and which would be fixed inside the rim (the rim is closed by 4 screws). In the event the tire is too soft to be fixed this way, I can still glue it on the printed insert from the inside of the tire...


That sounds like a plan, and a good solution for my Marui rear tires (no issues on the front, I got enough front tires in good state for the moment...

[silvertriple]

After the dinner, I spent some time to analyse the new comer.

After having opened the superstructure, there is old AM 35MHz receiver Robbe Kompact, very old and big servos (the kind of those you would find in the late seventies very early eighties), some regulation circuitry to remove the need for receiver batteries, and a lot of wires soldered in very bad way, and protected by some adhesive bands...

Then, for everything else, I don't think this car has been used often : the transmission seems new, and universal joints have no play, and shafts does present very light wear traces...

There is some weird things, however :
- Rear suspesnion arms are mounted upside down, limiting up movement while down movement is not really limited. I believe this may have contributed to the broken shock tower
- All screw are for a flat screwdriver, but in metric, for those I unmounted... I initially thought it was because the owner rebuilt the car at some point while having lost all the screws... But if you do a restoration of a Galaxy, why would you put those screws? And why would you do a restoration with a radio too old for the car? The layer of dirt seems to indicate the car was not used for at least 20 if not 30 years... Ultimately, it seems the owner did not had a Philips or JIS screwdriver...

In short, it looks quite promising still, as after parts cleanup, and chassis swap, this will be a nice car...