This RC10 looks like it was barely run, that's what made me think the axle stubs stopping and starting abruptly as they snagged, was what was responsible for the idler gear damage. The rest of this thing is pristine, there's only slight yellowing on the gear case, and top of the arms, but nothing is brittle so far.XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2024 8:37 pm Ah, I've seen that before -- it eliminates all droop in the suspension which can be bad but probably not a big deal if the car ran on a dead flat surface. Over a rougher surface however, the tires would literally skip over the surface stressing the drive train and making the car really hard to drive. Droop is necessary to allow the tires to maintain contact with the surface.
It's also possible the tooth chipped because the nylon has become dry and brittle. Do you know about re-hydrating old nylon parts? Just clean them with warm water and dish soap to remove all traces of grease and oil, then rinse to remove the soap residue and drop the parts into a jar of water for a few days. This will allow the nylon to absorb water making the parts soft and pliable.
I'll have to try the water trick, thanks for that!
that is serious business! I had no idea what all went in to the 6-gears to make them race ready. Looking forward to taking my time and performing some of these recommended steps. Drilling the diff ring is out of my range for this project, but really appreciate seeing what was involved in the pinnacle of the 6-gear development. Thanks for that! 
