A stamp ?
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A stamp ?
will these work on the A stamp. I have the RPM rear arms and MIP cvd kit for the rc10 ( 1/4 " axles). http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU81&P=M.
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Re: A stamp ?
They should fit OK; they were designed to let you run big bearings on the RC10GT, and the GT carriers came from the RC10T, and those carriers fit the original car. You'll need the HUGE 1/4"x1/2" bearings, or you can buy the carriers with bearings http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU78&P=7
You can run 0-degree http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=LX2912&P=K or 3 degree http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=ASCC4847&P=K carriers with standard bearings, or 1.5-degree carriers http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2557&P=7 with flanged bearings.
If you want to change to more durable 3/16"x3/8" bearings, you can buy 3/16" axles for your CVDs http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=LXAW08&P=K I have CVDs with 1/4" axles from years ago, the dirt oval class I raced in used the original RC10 wheels and Pro-Line Waffle tires, but I want to run 2.2" wheels with Dirt Hawg tires so I will have to pick up those axles to use them. I have a set of axles that will work with the new wheels, so i could get a set of dogbones, but I'd only save a few dollars doing that, and I'd rather have CVDs.
The tub-chassis series of cars is pretty cool; if you aren't concerned with period-correct, you can keep cars going back to the original 1984 RC10 without too much modification. The RC10T2 had an all-new chassis, transmission, and rear shock tower and bulkhead, but the whole front and and rear suspension were all carried over from the RC10T. You could take a gold-pan car from 1985 and swap out pretty much everything plastic, and the only thing that wouldn't bolt right in to place is the Stealth transmission, and that came with a drilling template for the four holes.
With the exception of the Tamiya Clod Buster, which is almost completely unchanged since 1986, the RC10 has the most longevity of any car I can think of.
You can run 0-degree http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=LX2912&P=K or 3 degree http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=ASCC4847&P=K carriers with standard bearings, or 1.5-degree carriers http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2557&P=7 with flanged bearings.
If you want to change to more durable 3/16"x3/8" bearings, you can buy 3/16" axles for your CVDs http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000106227&I=LXAW08&P=K I have CVDs with 1/4" axles from years ago, the dirt oval class I raced in used the original RC10 wheels and Pro-Line Waffle tires, but I want to run 2.2" wheels with Dirt Hawg tires so I will have to pick up those axles to use them. I have a set of axles that will work with the new wheels, so i could get a set of dogbones, but I'd only save a few dollars doing that, and I'd rather have CVDs.
The tub-chassis series of cars is pretty cool; if you aren't concerned with period-correct, you can keep cars going back to the original 1984 RC10 without too much modification. The RC10T2 had an all-new chassis, transmission, and rear shock tower and bulkhead, but the whole front and and rear suspension were all carried over from the RC10T. You could take a gold-pan car from 1985 and swap out pretty much everything plastic, and the only thing that wouldn't bolt right in to place is the Stealth transmission, and that came with a drilling template for the four holes.
With the exception of the Tamiya Clod Buster, which is almost completely unchanged since 1986, the RC10 has the most longevity of any car I can think of.
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Re: A stamp ?
steve thanks for the info . It was very helpful. I went with the 1.5 carriers. You really have to search the tower site for parts. With the rpm front and rear arms and the carriers and a few other parts i odered from tower I should have when assembled a nice RC10. I will post a pic when finished.
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