RC10 Worlds/Team/Modern Hybrid runner build - UK

[rc10uk]

Firstly, a quick hello as new to the forum. I have been lurking and drawing inspiration for a few weeks now, and as the parts have started to arrive, thought it time to say hello.

I am currently putting parts and hopefully a donor car together for a stealth / black alloy chassis based RC10 runner build, that will eventually be used for racing against modern and other vintage cars at club level here in the UK. The intention is to use original and period hop up parts from the early 90s, where possible and modern electrics.

So far I have collated from the UK and USA, the following (excuse poor photos, taken in haste, will improve next time)



Black Alloy Team Car chassis
AE Worlds Front shock tower
Fibrelyte Worlds Rear shock tower
Fibrelyte RPM style front shock tower (not sure if will use this)
Fibrelyte Worlds style Battery strap
Front arm mounts / bulkheads
Houge(?) bearing steering kit (some queries below on this one)
RPM front arms
Andy's Rear arms
Stealth slipper and top shaft
Aerial mount
New Wave white alloy servo posts
Cut down AE battery tray
3 sets of JC racing 2'2 spoked wheels
Team Blue Groove Mirage Turbo body / wing
Wing wire and buttons
Alloy body mount posts
RPM black shock collars

Hopefully on the way at this time, and still waiting for

A team car donor car
2 sets of RPM rear arms
Fibrelyte Worlds front shock tower
4 AE Worlds shocks
...

Looking forward to putting it all together. I haven't quite decided on a motor yet, but it's likely to be a 10.5 or 13.5 brushless motor via a LRP esc and Lipo batteries.

I do have a query already however if anyone can shed any light, and that is on the steering kit I have bought. It was listed as a buggy steering kit, and is complete, however it seems that the servo steering arm link is set up to be on the rightside, instead of on the left as more commonly seen as standard etc. Is it meant for the rc10 buggy or maybe a truck kiet?

With the standard servo mount holes, this seems to cause some odd angles to contend with, particularly if I want to use a servo saver type arm on the servo as they stand off more. First thoughts are to either mount the servo around the other way, and maybe put the servo mounting posts in front of the servo lugs. I also have a Savox low profile servo that I could use instead which may give more options space wise.

Does anyone know what the intended set up was with steering set? Is it a Houge?

Pics below to show more, many thanks in advance.

[uniquenamehere]

Hey... nice collection of parts! I purchased some fiber lyte parts too, they are really nice quality.

That looks like an A&L steering kit... only possibly assembled wrong. I'm sure someone can confirm that on this site.

[GoMachV]

A&L steering dyed black. They came with both left and right bellcranks, and a idler. That way you could set it up either direction.

Good news is they should still be available if you want to run it.
http://vintageteamaandl.com/

[rc10uk]

Thanks guys.

The bell crank raised part is one piece and molded so no way of switching around without modification. May look for another similar set so can run on left, and have some spares.

Currently hunting for old nylon wings but Yokomo restos seem to have made them scarce!

Do most people leave the shell full length on racing runners or remove the motor overhang? Seem to remember a mix back in the 90s?

[Y'ernat Al]

You may be mis-understanding. The kit commonly comes with three yellow bits, one of the cranks being a mirror image of the other, so that you can use them in Kyosho applications, like this Optima..

Here are the directions for the kit. You should confirm you have all the shims and bits because it looks as though the center link is needs to be moved under, but you probably saw that..and you'll need to lose the tall headed phillips screws in favor of some lower profile button head ones too.

http://vintageteamaandl.com/rc10str.htm

Good luck with the Yoke buttons. The rear parts of the bodies tend to remove themselves with time, but you probably knew that too.

[scr8p]

cut the raised part off the right bellcrank, flip it over, and put it on the left side. i've done that before on one or two of them already.

[rc10uk]

Many thanks Al and Scr8p.

I'm definitely missing the shims, does anyone know the dimensions of them, height especially, as could probably find something or make some up.

Had same thought as you Scr8p on cutting it down and flipping it over, should be able to nut and bolt a long ball joint through ok and make another shim to raise.

Will let know how goes.

Think i've sourced some nylon wings anyway.

[kink]

Welcome and great project. I will be keeping an eye on this build

[rc10uk]

Quick update on more parts on way..

Rpc bearing and stainless screw kit

Fibrelyte Worlds 94 front shock tower - this will match the rear then and mean the original Worlds tower won't be at risk from the fairly large jumps at the track.

Fibrelyte carbon transmission brace.

A&L steering kit from Synergy - one with steering arm on left.

[rc10uk]

More parts arrived...



2 x RPM Shorty Bumpers
Set of Worlds shocks
2 x Nylon wings
A&L Steering set
RPC Racing bearing and stainless screw kit

Thanks to forum member Kink for some of these parts.

The wings are a little less fluoro than initial photos, with the orange being more a orangey red. Trouble now is deciding on a paint scheme that will work with both colours... may have to decide on one or the other.



I've so far serviced and rebuilt the shocks, with new seals, and added a set of black RPM bottom shock cups all round and re-used some black AE shock feet on the white set. Don't really want to dye parts unless can be helped, so may leave the spring collars white.

I've also flushed, cleaned and oiled the bearings so the A&L Steering arms are now silky smooth on the bearings. Will hopefully find a one piece RPM steering brace/arm for it rather than a turnbuckle.



The RPC stuff is ok, but doesn't look like the bearing kit comes with any wheel bearings, and the screw kit is missing some of the sizes by looks of it. Still they'll be useful and weren't that expensive.

Still waiting for the donor car to arrive in the UK via another contact, but hopefully once here will be able to start the runner build. Plans so far are to go with a Reedy Sonic 10.5 brushless motor and re-use an existing LRP speedo.

[kink]

It is painful waiting for stuff to arrive. Been doing that for a month or more. Trouble is I keep seeing more bits, cool parts, or just spares. One day my buying and waiting will be over

[rc10uk]

All part of the fun... Dying to get racing though with one.

[rc10uk]

An update on this one, after the owner of the original planned donor car had some custom issues receiving it to him, the team donor car for this runner build has actually changed to a far better spec'ed donor car. Many thanks to the donor owner for sorting this out for me. This car should already come with lots of RPM and hopped up parts such as Lunsford turnbuckles and MIP CVDs etc.. so this build thread may be far shorter than originally planned. The good news is should be able to have the racer ready before long.

Donor car as should arrive next week.. (less electrics)



And a few more parts have arrived..



Some lovely Fibre-lyte parts to complete (Fibre-lyte Worlds Front / Rear Shock towers / Battery brace and transmission brace) and a new motor.



Slight change of plan, in it will go a Tekin Redline 10.5T which was on offer at a too good price to miss here in the UK.



There are a few parts still to sort, a gear cover from TBG is on way, and I'll add the Fibre-lyte parts and JC wheels to the donor, then will sort out the rest of the electrics. I think the donor is coming with a old shell, so may use that for a while whilst I think about painting the Mirage one.

Weather getting better here in the UK too hopefully, so local outdoor offroad series should start soon...

[kink]

Looking good! Your project is way faster than mine

[marlo]

That looks great, good job!