Rebuilding Gold Shocks....in 2019?

[NeonNoodle]

I've searched and found older threads on rebuilding the Classic (gold) shocks. One said a particular Traxxas seal would work, another simply suggested getting a commercially available o-ring from an industrial supply house. So, now, in 2019, are there any other (better?) options for doing this? Obviously, the Associated rebuild kits have long since dried up, but is nobody actually selling a rebuild kit for these specifically?

[KidAgain]

o-rings

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152941488048

the plastic parts just try to save them and take care during disassembly they dont exist only on Ebay.........................

[radioactivity]

Hi there NeonNoodle
If all you need is the orings I think they are still fairly available.
Try searching for the following part #s.

Chuck

[NeonNoodle]

Thanks guys.

So, KidAgain....the o-rings in that ebay link are the particular size that's needed?

[KidAgain]

Thanks guys.

So, KidAgain....the o-rings in that ebay link are the particular size that's needed?

From this thread the last few posts is where I learned of this.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=44183&start=15#top

[knixdad]

Are you referring to Gold Top Loaders or Bottom Loaders?

O-rings are easy, so many sources. E-Clips and Snap Rings aren't a problem

I was just rebuilding a set of gold bottom loaders and the Traxxas plastics are not a perfect option anymore.

I don't know when or why it changed, but the plastics from the Traxxas Ultra Shock rebuild kit are super tight. The E-clips are also too thick, the don't fit in the grooves above and below the piston. So I essentially end up massaging the parts a little to get them to move freely. The Snap ring that comes with it is fine.

I used my micrometer and my shocks shafts haven't magically swelled, so it's weird that they don't fit anymore.

[Spoon]

I also just rebuilt a set of gold bottom loaders, the only mandatory replacement parts would be the o-rings that radio linked (still very readily available) and maybe the plastic gasket between the body and cap (I reused mine). Just be careful not to kill the bottom spring clip. It's really tricky to remove, use a sewing pin and gently pry it out. It can take a lil abuse and mold back to its original form factor no problem.