All the Lazers

[HS-YZ250]

I think this is what I'm going with for cable routing. It blocks the esc buttons and lights, but the cable organizers don't hit the body. I might shorten the positive battery lead, eventually.

[HS-YZ250]

Did kyosho make this gear in a size less than 100 teeth?

The side brace on the ZX-R Mk2 limits how far you can move the motor and so I can't get enough pinion in it.

[Frankentruck]

Any chance you could use a standard Kimbrough or Robinson spur gear?

[HS-YZ250]

Any chance you could use a standard Kimbrough or Robinson spur gear?

I had tried a Kimbrough and the existing bearing holes didn't align with the screw holes. I ordered a random HPI spur gear, recently, as a hail mary, so we'll see. One of those instances I wish people posted part dimensions.

[HS-YZ250]

*Double Post*

[HS-YZ250]

I got the eBay lazer put back together with updated Kyosho hardware except for a few pieces.

I had to spend a little time experimenting with the differential assembly to get rid of the gritty feeling. It seemed too easy to get a rigid assembly. The instructions had the called for the conical washers to be nested, but this made for a heavy spring rate. So I tried re-stacking the m nose-to-nose and end-to-end to try and reduce the spring rate and be more like the ZX-RR's differentials with the coils spring. That seemed to help me get a better balance of no-slip and less-gritty, so I put it all back together and am trying to place the electronics so I can break the drive-line in and shake it down. Then I'll feel confident putting it up on eBay.

The seven-cell setup makes fitting a brushless ESC on the main chassis plate a challenge. I was considering modding the chassis to go back to a six-cell arrangement since I'm not racing it and, if the next owner down the road does, they'd probably convert to Lipo anyway. But I'll have to over-drill and countersink another hole to keep the RC10 body posts, which I think work pretty well with the YZ10 battery hold-downs.

As an aside, something I've been on the lookout for since getting the Lazers is a solution for replacing the M5.8xM2.6 pivot balls Kyosho used. Currently I'm re-using the originals in new ball ends but I'd like something fresh, at least on the shock towers. I thought I might have found a solution in these XRay pivot balls for their M18 Touring Car. They're made for 2.5mm plastic screws, but as you can see, the Axial M2.6 cap screws have too big of a head. The max the Xray parts will allow is about 3.8mm. Sources for M2.6 screws are slim, so if someone knows an option for M2.6 screws other than Axial and 3Racing, I'd like to check it out.

Although as I'm correcting my spelling mistakes, I now see the M18 uses a tapered head hardware on those, so maybe I'll take another look when I get home. I was just hoping to gain a little usable length in the hardware to get an M2.6 locking nut on the end of the bolt. I have Axial flat head M2.6 screws which have the same 2mm (?) drive socket as the standard kyosho hardware, but they were only long enough to just get a plain M2.6 kyosho nut on the end. Maybe they'll gain just enough for the lock nuts. On the Pakistan Lazer I have 3Racing titanium flat head screws which have plenty of length, but they have a 1.5 or 1mm drive socket, which is a little annoying.

These pivot balls are the inboard suspension arm pivots in this image.

[terry.sc]

Why not use the Kyosho ones, part number SC240 https://rc.kyosho.com/en/sc240.html

[HS-YZ250]

Why not use the Kyosho ones, part number SC240 https://rc.kyosho.com/en/sc240.html

I might buy those the next time I order hardware, and see if I've been wasting my time. As I mentioned before: I was hoping to accomplish a few things, one being enough thread length to get a nylon locking nut on the screw. If it could also have a small aluminum washer underneath it, that'd be better. But M2.6 is such a limiting size to work with. Besides, I'd like to get the 3mm version of that ball stud to replace some of the hardware on my Rocky, because that flathead brass screw is dumb.

I had also tried a 4.8mm ball nut (?) off a scorpion, I think. I needed to use a yokomo rod end for it. Probably would work fine, but I wanted to see what other options there are. Plus I don't think it left options for a locknut, though I might revisit it going together another way. I forget the part number, but it's the part on the left in these images.

The X-ray/Axial setup goes on like this and has plenty of extra thread even with the locknut, so there might be room to space it off the shock tower a bit.

Last night I got the eBay Lazer wired up and powered. I left it in the 7 cell arrangement which makes the Tekin ESC stick out and prevent putting on the undertray, so maybe I'll try mounting that on it's side so I can really shake it down. But I gave the diffs some break-in time before running it around my floor. It tracked and ran very well. The slipper seemed in good condition, the diffs stayed in adjustment, nothing slipped excessively. etc. When I get the body on I'll run it more in the driveway and see if I feel like anything needs tweaking, then I'll put the body and wing it came with back on and set it aside to work on the last Lazer. Oh, I need to order reproduction YZ10 battery hold downs so that the next owner will have a complete car. Although running it last night with the six cell pack, the left side did shift forward on me, so reverting to six probably would be more pragmatic.

I wonder if i can replace the carbon hold-downs with velcro straps...

[isobarik]

Did kyosho make this gear in a size less than 100 teeth?

The side brace on the ZX-R Mk2 limits how far you can move the motor and so I can't get enough pinion in it.

Nope they did not , There are 2 ways rw and hyperclutch, rw racing has spurs for the lazer so i guess they can have it in smaller sizes with 8mm hole , hyperclutch change the frontplate of the slipper to use normal spurs i think la-118 or some thing There is an light weight version umw-305 i think not sure. Otherwise an sleve , im not sure but check Tamiya.

Mvh iso

[HS-YZ250]

Nope they did not , There are 2 ways rw and hyperclutch, rw racing has spurs for the lazer so i guess they can have it in smaller sizes with 8mm hole , hyperclutch change the frontplate of the slipper to use normal spurs i think la-118 or some thing There is an light weight version umw-305 i think not sure. Otherwise an sleve , im not sure but check Tamiya.

Mvh iso

Those look to be difficult to find parts so I'm not sure those are viable options, unless someone can scour EU/Asia-pac sources for me. Google just has a couple of old listings.

If the Hyperclutch shaft just had flats all the way out to one end, I could probably adapt clutches from modern buggies, which would be ideal.

I guess another option is to try to drill and tap a couple of new holes myself, which might not be too big of a deal if I 3D print a drill fixture.

[HS-YZ250]

Nope they did not , There are 2 ways rw and hyperclutch, rw racing has spurs for the lazer so i guess they can have it in smaller sizes with 8mm hole , hyperclutch change the frontplate of the slipper to use normal spurs i think la-118 or some thing There is an light weight version umw-305 i think not sure. Otherwise an sleve , im not sure but check Tamiya.

Mvh iso

If the RC10 slipper pad works on the Hyperclutch, then what are the chances the outer plate reproduction part by DHawk Racing for the stealth will?

[HS-YZ250]

Never content with just finishing a project, I went down the rabbit hole of the small bore velvet shocks and found that Team Brood sells brand new sets.

Has anyone bought them? Pricier than I'd want, but I think the 80mm and 90mm match the lengths (if it's eye-to-eye) of the ZX-R shocks, and I wouldn't have to try and buy ones-and-twos of things from all over the internet.

https://teambrood.net/product/velvet-shock-90mm/

[isobarik]

Nope they did not , There are 2 ways rw and hyperclutch, rw racing has spurs for the lazer so i guess they can have it in smaller sizes with 8mm hole , hyperclutch change the frontplate of the slipper to use normal spurs i think la-118 or some thing There is an light weight version umw-305 i think not sure. Otherwise an sleve , im not sure but check Tamiya.

Mvh iso

If the RC10 slipper pad works on the Hyperclutch, then what are the chances the outer plate reproduction part by DHawk Racing for the stealth will?



s-l1600.jpg

The slipper on the lazer is different in that way since , yes the rc10 slipper pad works on the lazer slipper since i have used it my self, but Ahh There is always a but the slippers are reversed,backwards, ie on the slipper where you put the pad is on the otherside on the associated vz the Kyosho one.

If im not wrong the groove for the pad is on the inner on the kyosho and on the outer on the rc10 something like that, if you compare them you know What i mean.

Mvh iso

[HS-YZ250]

So I thought I was done with eBay lazer when, while I had it up off it's wheels on the table, I noticed one front tire was lower than the other. I took the front shocks apart expecting to find a travel limiter in one but all I found was a score on the one shaft just below the lower e-clip, which doesn't seem like it would restrict the travel of the shaft, but it apparently does. Maybe it's hanging up on the spacer between the o-rings. I'm thinking the previous owner used a pair of pliers on it at one point.

I also realized I had never taken these shocks apart as they had a lot of dirt around the lower seals, so I pulled the rears apart as well. Now I'm looking for replacement shafts which will be a bit of a trick. The fronts are ~42mm and the rears measure 46mm. I have some rere optima parts I had mistakenly bought on my desk, but the fronts (OT239) are too short and rear (OT240) are too long. I also noticed that the optima parts apparently have thinner pistons than the lazer parts as the space between the e-clips is smaller.

I went on amain to see if there were some options and there were these that might be the right length for the front, but I'm not sure if the shock pistons will fit. They're for the kyosho buggies starting with the RB5 and ZX5 to current. -https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-42mm-front-shock-shaft-2-kyow5184-04/p151843#tab-compatibility

The rears for those buggies are 50 mm: a bit longer. I suppose the rears I have aren't in bad shape and I could just reuse them. I'm tempted to try and source titanium nitrided shafts, but that seems to be getting into a trial and error game and I would prefer to wrap this one up.

[isobarik]

I wonder if i can replace the carbon hold-downs with velcro straps...

20240107_222740.jpg

Is that chassi that grey irl ???