Questions for electronics wizards
- templeofspeed
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Questions for electronics wizards
I'm attempting to repair a 1st generation Bose Wave Radio, can anyone ID the diodes at D405 and D406? D406 I can read 39A326, but a search of the interwebs does not come up with anything. I can guess possibly 1N326, but have not found a definitive cross-reference... You would think being electronic the web would be chock full of help.
D406 has obviously leaked it's guts out onto jumper Y36 as well as the base of the cap above C253, and D405 shows leakage/corrosion also. Neither have continuity in either direction, so I'm reasonably sure they are dead. Should I just slap in a few 1N4001's or...? Also resistor R403 looks like it's been hot, but shows 1K ohms (cold anyway) which the color bands (brown/black/orange/gold) indicate is the correct value.
As you may guess Bose is of no help, and the authorized repair facility wants a minimum of $100 to repair. Obviously I'd rather spend $3 on a couple diodes and a resistor and save the rest for more important RC related items.
And what the hell is the diode fluid, anyway?
Oh, the problem is low volume.
Anyone?
D406 has obviously leaked it's guts out onto jumper Y36 as well as the base of the cap above C253, and D405 shows leakage/corrosion also. Neither have continuity in either direction, so I'm reasonably sure they are dead. Should I just slap in a few 1N4001's or...? Also resistor R403 looks like it's been hot, but shows 1K ohms (cold anyway) which the color bands (brown/black/orange/gold) indicate is the correct value.
As you may guess Bose is of no help, and the authorized repair facility wants a minimum of $100 to repair. Obviously I'd rather spend $3 on a couple diodes and a resistor and save the rest for more important RC related items.
And what the hell is the diode fluid, anyway?
Oh, the problem is low volume.
Anyone?
- Halgar
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
You lost me after "I'm attempting ... "
Good luck.
It's probably the liquid form of magic smoke. Once you let it out, the thingy no worky anymore.templeofspeed wrote:And what the hell is the diode fluid, anyway?
Good luck.
klavy69 wrote:... when I give you s&#t its a loan...I want it back!
Re: Questions for electronics wizards
Thats why Bose charge so much to fix itHalgar wrote:You lost me after "I'm attempting ... "
It's probably the liquid form of magic smoke. Once you let it out, the thingy no worky anymore.templeofspeed wrote:And what the hell is the diode fluid, anyway?
Good luck.
- lowrydesign
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
try this site... you may have to pay a few buxs but its worth it.... http://www.justanswer.com electronics section -> http://www.justanswer.com/question-list.aspx?CATID=18&FID=50+63
Re: Questions for electronics wizards
I'm no expert but I would suspect the capacitors may be the cause of your problem. The capacitors are the black and silver thingies, they are known to leak fluid when they go bad. Here is some info - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
- jwscab
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
unless you pulled the diodes off the board, and know there aren't any more numbers, you might be reading the date code, if you can carefully bend one of them off to the side, you might see another number on there.
Also, the earlier poster was probably right, it's probabyly C253, and it's companion. They are probably 'puffy', and leaked out the electrolyte. They look like they might be the series capacitors on the left/right channels going into that chip on the bottom of the pic.
you can pull the diodes out of the board and check them with a diode meter/voltmeter. most dvm's, even cheapo ones have a diode test for continuity. One way is like an open, and the other direction would have a voltage drop, .4, .7v, something like that. if it works at all on the meter, it's more than likely still good.
oh, also check around the web for the stereo model number. I found schematics for my technics recevier, and they were free....
Also, the earlier poster was probably right, it's probabyly C253, and it's companion. They are probably 'puffy', and leaked out the electrolyte. They look like they might be the series capacitors on the left/right channels going into that chip on the bottom of the pic.
you can pull the diodes out of the board and check them with a diode meter/voltmeter. most dvm's, even cheapo ones have a diode test for continuity. One way is like an open, and the other direction would have a voltage drop, .4, .7v, something like that. if it works at all on the meter, it's more than likely still good.
oh, also check around the web for the stereo model number. I found schematics for my technics recevier, and they were free....
- RichieRich
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
I'm betting on the caps too. Clearly the contents have oxidized the jumper wire.
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
As already noted, You dont test a diode by doing a continuity test. They block current flow.
Most know what a diode does, however that causes misleading thoughts about how to test them.
Most decent or highgrade multimeters like Fluke have a dedicated selection for "diode test"
If you do find Wave radio parts, I need a new Bass side speaker. (It blew 3 months out of warranty over 8 years ago)
Most know what a diode does, however that causes misleading thoughts about how to test them.
Most decent or highgrade multimeters like Fluke have a dedicated selection for "diode test"
If you do find Wave radio parts, I need a new Bass side speaker. (It blew 3 months out of warranty over 8 years ago)
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
guess what i think you may be in luck. i happen to be an electronics tech and our shop was authorized a few years ago so we have service manuals/schematics layin around. i know we got rid of most paper stuff when manufactuers went to cd but i know that we definatley kept Bose stuff. unfortunatley we do not have any bose parts anymore because after we used them all up they would not send anymore since we were no longer authorized. in order to be bose authorized their requirement is your store/shop must sell their products. i dont know why we ever stopped selling it, we always sold tons of it and the stuff is amazing.
any way i will check for the manual on monday if i can find the Bose books. which wave radio is it ? is it the tall one with the cd player and sub woofer or the low one with only 2 speakers, Bose never really had model #'s on their stuff there models were something like waveradio, lifestyle system, accoustimass sub, bose 1 2 3 system etc... a pix of the unit would help also mabey one of the model # plate too.
and these guys are right about the electrolytic capacitors c253 is the problem it probably leaked out of the bottom around the legs. more than likley if you unsoldered it one of them will probably fall out. if you replace it that may even fix it the corrosion shouldn't have penetrated the diodes but you never know. flip the board over and check for corrosion on the foil side to make sure it didnt eat away any circuit traces/pathways.
any way i will check for the manual on monday if i can find the Bose books. which wave radio is it ? is it the tall one with the cd player and sub woofer or the low one with only 2 speakers, Bose never really had model #'s on their stuff there models were something like waveradio, lifestyle system, accoustimass sub, bose 1 2 3 system etc... a pix of the unit would help also mabey one of the model # plate too.
and these guys are right about the electrolytic capacitors c253 is the problem it probably leaked out of the bottom around the legs. more than likley if you unsoldered it one of them will probably fall out. if you replace it that may even fix it the corrosion shouldn't have penetrated the diodes but you never know. flip the board over and check for corrosion on the foil side to make sure it didnt eat away any circuit traces/pathways.
- templeofspeed
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
Thanks for the help everyone (except Halgar ).
Wyldbill, it's the 1st gen Wave Radio AWR1-1W. No CD or sub... I'm gonna get a sack of caps and get soldering, but the schematic would be very nice to have just so I don't have to go blind following traces. The board is very clean on the bottom, I may have caught this in time.
Stupid capacitor plague.
Wyldbill, it's the 1st gen Wave Radio AWR1-1W. No CD or sub... I'm gonna get a sack of caps and get soldering, but the schematic would be very nice to have just so I don't have to go blind following traces. The board is very clean on the bottom, I may have caught this in time.
Stupid capacitor plague.
- Halgar
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
Heeyyyyyy! I was the first to suggest that the magic liquid leaked out and jwscab confirmed it! Sheesh, try to help a guy out ...templeofspeed wrote:Thanks for the help everyone (except Halgar ).
klavy69 wrote:... when I give you s&#t its a loan...I want it back!
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
ok, so it's the radio only version. i am assuming it's the white model most of them were white some black.it's the 1st gen Wave Radio AWR1-1W. No CD or sub
thoes wave systems sounded amazing they had a maze of wave guides inside them to reproduce and amplify the sound that came out of 1.5'" speakers. they were well worth the $1000 price back in the day. i'll see what kind of information i can come up with for ya.
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Re: Questions for electronics wizards
i found all of the old Bose manuals we had at the shop. i need to know which version you have so i can copy the correct manual. Bose made 3 version of the series 1 wave radio. the part# is printed on the top (component) side of the P.C. board near the Bose logo. the three versions listed were #'s 147206, 173960, & 176189. the bad news is we only had 2 schematics for that model, the other one must have been lost when we use to send them out to 1 of our other shops. i do have the entire manual along with service bulltiens but Bose never attaches schematics to any manual, they were loosly attached in the back so you could seaperate the manual from the prints while working on a unit, really hard to keep track of if not in a 3 ring binder. just let me know which one you have. it may take a while to copy all the pages, would you want the whole manual or just schematics and the parts list?
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