How time flies when you.........

[minichamps11]

....put some old skool Yoke bits in a jar of nitro fuel for an hour to remove the paint off, then forget about them......
These were a set of 870C bulkheads - after 8 days in nitro they came out like rubber - floppy & bendy! Most annoying of all the b***dy paint wasn't even touched

[bscotti]

Made a similar mistake ... once ... don't soak them in acetone either as they will dissolve!

[Alex B]

Wet 'n' Dry and elbow grease everyday!!!!!

[Mr. ED]

I wish someone made some lexan covers instead; with alloy parts to connect the topdeck to the bulkhead.
Those original white parts are so bad; and the black ones are only slightly better; they don't go yellow

Actually the first parts didn't have holes to mount the topdeck and are pretty much ok for what they do.
But once they started attaching the topdecks this plastic is really too brittle to take the shocks at those mount points.
Maybe I should try limited soaking for some 'rubberness'

[michi]

This reminds me to a 834b body which i laid into break fluid during 2 days. It melted in multible films. In contrast to this bits the paint disappeard perfectly

[Mr. ED]

totally off-subjec but in reply to the above: I just saw a NIB 834b body sell on ebay germany last week. Could not believe it only caught a little over 20 euro

[michi]

really totaly off - subject. But about completeness > I won the mentioned auction !!!

[highwayracer]

You really need to be careful with those bulkheads (and the one on the motor mount also). Those can't be dyed either...they'll warp.

To take off the old paint, I would suggest using some really fine sand paper. This also works if you want to take off the oxidation (yellowing). After you're done, you can use some steel wool or a polishing wheel to shine up the part. If you don't want to do this, you can just spray a thin layer of clear paint over the part.

Regards,
highwayracer

[Mr. ED]

ah, I didn't know the yellowing was from contact with air; always thought it was related to exposure to light.

You don't have a solution to their brittleness Roger? I have several cracks in the black plastic parts after the 2 day competition I took part in , but I don't see the point of replacing by new parts unless I can stop it from happening again on the cars next run

[Bormac]

Damn! Maybe I should remove my top deck and just run the chassis stiffener.....

[RETRO R/C]

Or you could boil the parts for a little while - not too long or they will warp.......that trick never gets old.

Strange - as I never really had those "brittle" problems with plastic covers on the doggy. (Then again - I didnt paint them either!)

Cheers

Darryn

[bearrickster]

You need to soak thinks like this in Castrol Super Clean (aka) Purple power it will strip the paint and wont hurt the plastic? it even removes super glue on the Rims

[highwayracer]

ah, I didn't know the yellowing was from contact with air; always thought it was related to exposure to light.

You don't have a solution to their brittleness Roger? I have several cracks in the black plastic parts after the 2 day competition I took part in , but I don't see the point of replacing by new parts unless I can stop it from happening again on the cars next run

Opppps...yes, it's actually exposure to the light...not the air. What would that tern be called???

As for the brittleness, you can't do anything about it because it's the type of plastic that yokomo uses. I don't know of anyone that makes a replacement part. I use to have a nylon (white) front bulkhead, but it was only the bottom piece and not the top.

Regards,
Roger

[Mr. ED]

Yes. I'm already using the later black nylon bulkheads too.
The problem may have to do with ageing, and the huge jumps at that competion I counted them, multiplied by my average nr of turns per heat and the nr of heats over 2 days...and ended up very pleased things weren't worse in the end

The parts are not nylon, so boiling won't help probably. Boiling helps relief stress from poorly produced parts and humidifies dried up nylon but neither is the problem in this case.
Jason, I used a tap to pre-thread the screw holes. This helps a bit for stress sensitive material; prevents the screw from pushing the material aside and cause stress already in the asssembly.
Running the stiffener , not using the GF hotdog chassis, use a springloaded topdeck; a couple things I also consider, but I'd still ike better parts

[Alex B]

Just a quick query, how much do you think it would cost to get a batch machined out of a different material such as nylon?