scr8p wrote:i use a pair of side cutters to work them out, using the axle for leverage. works like a champ..... every single time.
ditto. an old beatup and dull pair of sidecutters.
Yep, sidecuts are the answer for me. Seems like the more you pry that little bugger out the easier it goes in next time. This was a real problem for me the first time I had to do it also Jay, back in 1986.
I have a pair of needle nose pliers that has a bend in the jaw. Typically I can grab the pin and push the jaw against the axle to lever it out. I think the punch is a good idea too.
if people...... when building the cars...... would just give the pins a little squeeze with a pair of pliers before installing them, they would go in and out very easy. they only need to be snug enough to not fall out when you pull the wheels off.
I've found that grinding the tip off a finishing nail and using it as a punch works really well. If you don't grind the point off it may expand the roll pin making it even harder to get out. Its a cheap alternative to buying a punch that I see no other use for.
I have a set of Roll pin punches I got from Mac tools or Snap On. but its just an RC10 just through it out and replace it with a Losi you will never have that problem again.
Took the wife out to town today, so had a break from building/restoing, BUT I am OVER pulling those damn things out. I don't know how many I did...... TOO MANY!
I am not here cause I am playing photographer and on my mountain bike. www.gojammedia.com
mrlexan wrote:Took the wife out to town today, so had a break from building/restoing, BUT I am OVER pulling those damn things out. I don't know how many I did...... TOO MANY!
I just buy new parts. I have a huge shoe box full of nothing but axles and hub/bearing assemblies. WAAAYYYY easier! Oh and I eat rainbows and poop butterfies too. . -Jeff
scr8p wrote:if people...... when building the cars...... would just give the pins a little squeeze with a pair of pliers before installing them, they would go in and out very easy. they only need to be snug enough to not fall out when you pull the wheels off.
DITTO!
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I find they come out easily with a set of needle nose pliers-- just be sure to have the slot in the pin facing the tip of the threads-- this way when I squeeze down on the pin, to grab it, it also compresses the pin, thus allowing it to pull out.
regular pliers work well using this method. too.
If the slot is facing 'sideways', then yeah, it is a PITA!!!
Finally! Some progress in building/restoration for me. I found, after much searching, a decent Hot Trick chassis to go with all the parts I've collected over the years. The nose plate is not perfect, but I've yet to see another Wide Foot front end...
on the rc10 arms, the kit uses small phillips head screws, what is exact replacement size. and does anyone think they make a common hex head the same size?
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The screws used to hold the hinge pins are 1/4 4-40. The screws that attach the shock mount to the arm are 3/16 4-40. There are plenty of 4-40 hex bolts you can use as replacements for the Phillips screws, although button heads would be a good...
Did Hot Trick actually get this right? I mean, this is common knowledge now.... But not back then! Based on the literature.... I'm a believer!
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But wait....that doesn't look very professional....I mean, Speaker wire? Really?...
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He he that's funny but actually more advanced than what I was using bitd , my friend had a Tamiya fast charger , the one with the 15min clockwork timer that plugged into the cigarette lighter in a car , I checked it's resistance and bought some...