So what did you get in the post today ???

[tgfarrell]

Stoopid questions follow.

Whats hex or non hex wheels mean?

I assume those new wheels would not work with my vintage RC10 and its bearings?

[Frankentruck]

They could work, but you would need a set of hex adapters for the rear axles. Factory Works (member GoMachV) sells them.

[1911Colt]

Whats hex or non hex wheels mean?

"Hex" and "non-hex" refers to how the wheels mount to the buggy. Hex has a hexagonal shape molded into the mounting surface. That fits over a hexagon shaped piece on the end of the axle. The bearings are inside the hub. There are a few hex sizes, but the VAST majority, by a huge margin, are 12mm hex. If it is anything other than 12mm, people usually say so. If they just say "hex", you can safely assume 12mm.

Non-hex can be a lot of different arrangements, but since this is an RC10 site, let's go with that example The rears are "pin drive", so the wheel has a slot for a pin to rest and the axle has a pin through it. The fronts have the bearings which go over the axle.

If you look at the back of a hex wheel, you will see the "hex". It is unmistakable.

In the good old days when all of the cool buggies were made, each manufacturer had their own wheel mount design. This unfortunately meant wheels were not interchangeable. With the hex design, wheels are largely interchangeable (you still have to watch the offset). Also, moving the bearings to the hubs made it quicker and easier to change front wheels in the pits. Schumacher always had the bearings in the hub, Losi XX did, and probably others, but most did not.

I don't know if modern stock class racers do it because brushless motors are so powerful, but in the old days, Schumacher 2WD buggies in stock class could run narrow 4WD fronts on the rear to save weight. 12mm hex allows that too, but like I said, I don't know if anyone actually does it.

[RogueIV]

Whats hex or non hex wheels mean?

"Hex" and "non-hex" refers to how the wheels mount to the buggy. Hex has a hexagonal shape molded into the mounting surface. That fits over a hexagon shaped piece on the end of the axle. The bearings are inside the hub. There are a few hex sizes, but the VAST majority, by a huge margin, are 12mm hex. If it is anything other than 12mm, people usually say so. If they just say "hex", you can safely assume 12mm.

Non-hex can be a lot of different arrangements, but since this is an RC10 site, let's go with that example The rears are "pin drive", so the wheel has a slot for a pin to rest and the axle has a pin through it. The fronts have the bearings which go over the axle.

If you look at the back of a hex wheel, you will see the "hex". It is unmistakable.

In the good old days when all of the cool buggies were made, each manufacturer had their own wheel mount design. This unfortunately meant wheels were not interchangeable. With the hex design, wheels are largely interchangeable (you still have to watch the offset). Also, moving the bearings to the hubs made it quicker and easier to change front wheels in the pits. Schumacher always had the bearings in the hub, Losi XX did, and probably others, but most did not.

I don't know if modern stock class racers do it because brushless motors are so powerful, but in the old days, Schumacher 2WD buggies in stock class could run narrow 4WD fronts on the rear to save weight. 12mm hex allows that too, but like I said, I don't know if anyone actually does it.

We run slim wheels up front and normal rears in 17.5 stock on carpet/turf, clay folks still use wide front wheels. Modern BL systems are super torquey so you kinda need the wide rears to get the traction down.

As far as wheels' offsets and mounting types if you aren't aware I've been working on a database of them. The thread for that is here: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=568378#p568378

[tgfarrell]

Great info. Thanks folks.

[mikea96]

NIB B6.4d showed up today. My son's and I have started going to the track a lot again lately and I wanted a 2wd to go with my 4wd.

[80sRunner]

Swap meet:

Silicone reinforced lines for exhaust couplers. Dry fit was good.

Wasn't paying 5.99 for a 3" piece.

[JosephS]

I can finally start my 6 gear build.

[Frankentruck]

I'm not interested in most of the Fantom motors, but the older ones are pretty cool. I found a cool seller that worked with me and even included an interesting mystery motor. Also picked up an older AYK motor.
.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

That Fantom is cool. I've never seen that label before.

[TRX-1-3]

IMG_6893.jpeg

I can finally start my 6 gear build.

Dude that paint is the t*ts!

[JosephS]

IMG_6893.jpeg

I can finally start my 6 gear build.

Dude that paint is the t*ts!

Yep. Had Jeremy from Off The Grid Designs agreed to paint up a copy of a 6160x as well as each of the wings to match. His work is great. It looks amazing in person.

I pieced together all of the bits and bobs that make an early Edinger and was going build it up with the original instructions. This body was my last major piece of the car. I was hoping for the vintage electronics, but those may be beyond my ability to repair.

[morrisey0]

Just a simple single item today. A very nice Tekin ESC from member frankentruck. Ed allowed me to "purchase" this from him, at a great price, by simply donating to rc10talk.com This is a great concept, and I have done the same in the past, and I hope that others think about doing the same in the future. If you have items sitting around that may not be of much value to you, but may be value to other members, consider "selling" your items to other members in exchange for them donating to the site. It really seems like a win win win!

Thanks Ed!!!

[Frankentruck]

Glad USPS decided to deliver it

It's also nice to see stuff go to people that can make use of it.

[Dustydrone]

A little off topic but a few pieces to the new crawler build showed up today. I couldn't resist the SCX10 Pro being on sale I'm thinking of going FPV on this one...