RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
- DerbyDan
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RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
So i've fitted my B2/B3 CVDs into my Worlds Car project along with the correct flanged bearings (from Avid) So that I can use the 2.2" B2/B3 wheels. Firstly it was obvious that there are not enough spacers in the MIP kit to take up all the play, so I shaved down a couple of Losi spacers until they were the perfect thickness.
The problem I have is that with all the spacing taken up between the bearing & the drive pin, when the suspension is at full droop the dog bone pin at the other end of the driveshaft is engaging only on the very end of the diff outdrive - which i'm worried could potentially drop out with a heavy impact. I thought about fitting spacers to both sides of the hub bearings to effectivey push the driveshaft deeper into the outdrive - but then I noticed that at full suspension compression, the driveshaft is already almost binding into the base of the outdrive.
Has anybody else noticed this? Is there a cure or am I just being over-cautious & I should just run the thing & see what happens??
The problem I have is that with all the spacing taken up between the bearing & the drive pin, when the suspension is at full droop the dog bone pin at the other end of the driveshaft is engaging only on the very end of the diff outdrive - which i'm worried could potentially drop out with a heavy impact. I thought about fitting spacers to both sides of the hub bearings to effectivey push the driveshaft deeper into the outdrive - but then I noticed that at full suspension compression, the driveshaft is already almost binding into the base of the outdrive.
Has anybody else noticed this? Is there a cure or am I just being over-cautious & I should just run the thing & see what happens??
My T.C Showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=28990
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
i'd put a couple more limiters inside the shock. you don't want to be chewing up the pins or the ends of the outdrives.
- DerbyDan
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Re: Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs (PICS Added 22-04)
Thanks for the quick response scr8p.... I did think of adding more spacers - but as i've built to the manual spec i'd kinda begrudge limiting my suspension travel any further - having said that it might be the only way?scr8p wrote:i'd put a couple more limiters inside the shock. you don't want to be chewing up the pins or the ends of the outdrives.
I'll take some pictures to demonstrate how close it gets
My T.C Showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=28990
- DerbyDan
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Re: RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
Full droop;
Full compression;
How does this look to you guys?? For me the drive pin gets a bit too near the end of the outdrive with the suspension at full droop?
Full compression;
How does this look to you guys?? For me the drive pin gets a bit too near the end of the outdrive with the suspension at full droop?
My T.C Showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=28990
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Re: RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
I would limit the droop just a hair
Is the axle loose (no binding) on full compression ?
Is the axle loose (no binding) on full compression ?
Morten Max
Re: RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
try flanged bearings on the insides of the hub carriers and un-flanged on the outside. This 'should' scoot the axles a tiny bit deeper into the output drives.
Re: RC10 Axle spacing when using B2/B3 MIP CVDs
Limiting shock travel (gold shocks) and putting 4 shims ASC7368 on the inside of an inner flanged bearing (3/16x3/8) were only thing that worked on mine when that happened - no CVDs - stock dogbones - popped up every time I hit a big bump - really a pain. Seems to work pretty well now.
HH TQ10
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