My RC10T revival

[ktraver97ss]

Hello all!

So, as it seems to be a trend around here, I am rebuilding my RC10t that I built when I was like 12. I really enjoyed building it back then and about 10-12 years ago my brother got a couple new batteries and electronics and ran it a bit. Then it went in a box in the attic and has sat until my son turned 4 a few days ago and he received a bunch of the cheapo walmart rc cars. I decided to pull it out and see if it ran. Batts were dead and it would only run for like 3-5 minutes, but everything else seemed to work. The plan was to get a couple new batteries and a charger that I dont have to turn the dial every 15 minutes....~$350 later I am building a 9.5t brushless with 3s lipos.. I got it all cleaned up and shocks rebuilt so far. Waiting on bearings for the wheels and stealth and the cva conversion and a few misc parts. One question, will these axles work with the cva conversion kit if I want to run different newer style wheels? http://www.amazon.com/Associated-Electronics-9755-Rear-Axle/dp/B000VJ0YNS

Will any 48P pinion gears work with the stock spur?

Am I doing to demolish the stock diff and/or trans with this setup?

Now some pics from before the teardown:

[ktraver97ss]

Chassis cleaned up and shocks rebuilt:



Got the batt tray rigged up to take the Turnigy 5000mah 3s 60-120C big bitches. Notched the rear bulkhead thing to allow the batt to sit upright rather than flat, like they are sitting on the wood in the first pic. Then I narrowed the stock batt cup for the front mount by taking material out of the middle and drilled the tub to mount it. Not sure what I am going to use as a strap or how i am going to secure it yet. Ill snap some pics of it tonight. Thinking maybe using hollow aluminum tube tapped to take the stock tapered head screw to mount to the chassis and a standard head with the hole for the pin in the top and have my buddy cnc an aluminum hold-down piece for me.

[DaveM]

Looks like a great project, keep the pics coming.

I broke so many parts using a 3 cell, I am happily running a 2 cell now.

Cheers, Dave.

[Oozzee]

i Like they way that you work, similar to me, Beer and RC Cars go Hand in hand

[DaveM]

MIP cvd kit, 3/16 axles # 1082 ( E-bay )

or

Team Associated cvd kit, 3/16 axles # 7383 ( Tower Hobbies )

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3277&P=7

Cheers, Dave.

[alien3t]

IIrc the associated cvd's were made for them by MIP. I think MIP have the patend on the CVD name. so basically comes down to which set you can get cheaper

[ktraver97ss]

Thanks Dave, it looks like I ordered the wrong kit, axles were too short. Is it worth going 1/4"? I did just get new 3/16" revolution bearings so Ill prob stay 3/16 for now i guess.

I ordered the Avid RC rc10t bearing kit assuming the stealth bearing were included, they, in fact, were not. Do you guys know what size bearings I need for this?

Oozzee, beer and a lot of things go hand in hand. lol

[ktraver97ss]

This is really addicting...just dropped another $80 on the correct cvd kit and steel stealth gears. Kinda rolling the dice if the idler is going to work. Thoughts?

Think Ill be able to press this gear on the stock idler shaft? The SC10 stealth seems to be pretty similar.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYKF98?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Also got this Diff gear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8KOVTA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Id like to make this thing go 60+mph as reliably as possible. I have a problem with going big or going home. lol

[jwscab]

I would stick with the plastic idler. Steel on aluminum is not good.

[ktraver97ss]

Think it will wear out the alum prematurely? Maybe Ill buy the aluminum one and have my buddy scan and cnc one out of billet or something harder. hmmm

[jwscab]

yes, the aluminum and steel with wear pretty quickly. lube will help but it's just a matter of time.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Robinson Racing made a steel idler for a GT that will fit # 2213, but might be hard to find.

Like JWSCAB said, I would try the original idler and see how it holds up, maybe lubricate the gears

with Tamiya ceramic grease.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWCR9&P=7

Cheers, Dave.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Bearings for stealth gearbox,

4, 3/16 x 3/8 ( inside cases for top shaft and idler )

2, 3/8 x 5/8 ( inside cases for diff out drives )

2, 5/32 x 5/16 ( inside diff out drives )

Metal shielded, no flanges.

Cheers, Dave.

[ktraver97ss]

Sounds good, Ill run the stocker till it goes and then try the steel one. That Robinson one can be found on Amazon, I had it ordered but cancelled. Ordered that Cera-grease instead, maybe it will help a bit.

Thanks for the bearing sizes!

Thinking about starting with an 18t pinion gear, what do you guys think for my setup? I bought a 17-21 set so i can play around with it. Stocker that was on it was 14t lolz that would be like insta-flip with this lipo brushless setup.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Do you have the paperwork for the brushless motor?

It should have a (FDR) final drive ratio for 2wd truck, buggy or onroad, etc.


Spur divided by pinion x gearbox ratio = plug in different pinions till you get as close as possible to

the final drive ratio.


Stealth gearbox is 2.25

Cheers, Dave.