old racer

[BTracer]

Got this one a while ago. It's got some pretty cool pieces on it. Can anyone spot the one part that convinced me to buy it?
Anyway, the old owner said that he got this one in the first batch of RC10's shipped to Fantasy World Toys and Hobbies of Tacoma,WA back in '84. Said he raced it and got 3rd place in the NW nationals that year. Gotta love a car with an interesting story.

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rc10.race1.jpg (23.31 KiB) Viewed 1769 times

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rc10.race2.jpg (23.44 KiB) Viewed 1770 times

[JK Racing]

shock tower shape? it isnt straight across

[Daddeo]

Spring cups on the rear shocks?!

[BTracer]

Nah, it's got the box art lower spring cups

[BTracer]

You got it Daddeo! Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it also has a Tamiya Rough Rider body, well half a Tamiya Rough Rider body..

[Spiderman]

shoot..............i was thinking the pink springs

[Asso_man!]

I almost won that auction, oh well bad timing, nice grab

[Mr. ED]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it also has a Tamiya Rough Rider body, well half a Tamiya Rough Rider body..

On the windshield it says Chenowth. I think that's a parma body for the goldtub. But I don't know very wll how it looks and that decal might just have found another home.
Cetainly is a nice variation and looking cool.
Maybe take away the large decal on the hood, and the chenowth one: looks just a little too busy and hiding the paint design a bit.

[Asso_man!]

That's defo a lexan Rough Rider body, Kamtec does still re-release them... The Chenowth body was realeased by Parma and has a totally different look (there are several threads here disclosing it)

[Dr. Robotnik]

I wondered why that guy stopped emailing me about that car! Hahaha, he quoted me $197 shipping and I never heard from him after I questioned him about it.

BTW can you measure the rear box art spring cups for me? As the last dimensions I got off Dogbone on here were incorrect.

Well done, nice car, I am betting no chassis stamp either.

[BTracer]

I am betting no chassis stamp either

On the contrary, this one has a big fat "A" punched on its tail end. The box that came with this car was an Edinger address one with the 6016 info stamped on instead of a sticker, and it's a light gold anodized chassis, shocks, etc, so I believe the fellow's claim about being in that first batch to the store.
I was talking to temple about the rumors that the "no stamp" cars might have been in the first batch to come out. I found that in one of my other kits, there was a no stamp chassis, but, Cadillac address, and deeper gold anodized chassis. I'm not the original owner, but the kit didn't seem to be tampered with. We came up with the conclusion that it was just probably an anomoly. Any thoughts??

Anyway here you go. I used your diagram as the legend. There are no tapers, only straight cuts, using the nylon material found elsewhere on the car. Back in the day, America hadn't converted to the metric system. All the measurements were taken in millimeters. Let me know if you need measurements in a different system

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rc10ORIGINALBALLCUPS.jpg (19.61 KiB) Viewed 1635 times

A= 6 mm
B= 10 mm
C= 3 mm
D= 0.5 mm (very thin)
E= 5 mm
F= 2 mm
G= 6 mm
H= 4 mm
I= 18 mm
Total outside circumference should be about 56.55 mm

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P1100014.jpg (103.61 KiB) Viewed 1635 times

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P1100016.jpg (80.9 KiB) Viewed 1634 times

[BTracer]

E= 5.5 mm? Pretty hard to tell with the archaic tools that I'm using Total height (A=) should still be 6mm, though. So I guess it just depends how thick you want the shock floor to be. The diameter should be a not exceed 18mm. With the wheels on the car, the spring cups get rubbed a little. Could you let me know when you finish some completed sets?

[Dr. Robotnik]

Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I made 8 before and they wouldn't fit the springs so I used the for something else. I am going to do another 8 when I get the chance.

Woot.

[Dr. Robotnik]

Oh and these are an absolute pig to machine!!!!

[Mr. ED]

Oh and these are an absolute pig to machine!!!!

Start with the larger recess first and use a rod that's a larger diameter.
then cut the center , and last reduce the outer diameter.

That way you keep the structural stiffness till the end of the operations.
(Don't know enoug about machining to be sure it is possible to do this way though )