Kayne wrote:I set my b4 up according to the manual. The reared is really soft and bottoms out really hard. So hard that it crushed the endbell on the motor. I think I need to switch out to some stiffer springs and shock pistons? Would an aluminum motor guard help or are they just for looks?
shouldn't bottom out that hard unless you jump 15ft in the air and land it on the back wheels only... if bottoming out hard, you need to go smaller piston holes to get more pack and lighter oil to get the same "static" damping.
alum parts are mostly for look and then for weight distro. But you don't want extra weight there
Paul
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Well I am just learning to drive. I have been running on a track set up for 1/8th trucks . With nimh batteries it does really good. I just got a 4000 mah lipo and it cooks. I did get a little crazy on the jumps . But it was doing it with the nimh batteries as well. I guess I'll just stock up on some motors.
You need to get the car to land nose down. Try not leaving the atmosphere with your altitude and then hit the brake in the air. You could also run a stiffer spring in the rear. If compression is an issue try 35 or 40wt with #2 pistons and silver springs in the back. Set the ride height to bones level. Don't neglect the front though. Usually a change on one end means a change on the other. If you go that stiff in the back (which happens to be where my car is at the moment) you will need to go with something like 40wt with #1 pistons in the front with brown springs.
I'm running with what came in the kit.brown springs and 35wt oil. Do any manufacturer's sell endbells? The Orion sv2 I am running has an epic endbell. I am guessing it was switched out before I got it because it looks like the one that comes on the komodo motors and it has epic stamped on it.
Don't forget that the B44 rear hubs use a different bearing spacer between the inner and outer bearing in the hub, it's a little thinner than the one for the stock B4 rear hubs.
adam lancia wrote:Don't forget that the B44 rear hubs use a different bearing spacer between the inner and outer bearing in the hub, it's a little thinner than the one for the stock B4 rear hubs.
what, what? theres supposed to be a spacer in there?
the bearings don't "seat" into the hub, they rest on a spacer?
great.....this is what i get for getting a used car that i didn't build.
The bearings do sit into the hubs but the spacers are in there to allow you to tighten the wheel nuts without binding the bearings. They do last longer this way as well.
kaiser wrote:
what, what? theres supposed to be a spacer in there?
called a "crush tube" so you can tighten the wheelnut without straining the bearings. Check the instruction manual
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
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I've recently done a few stealths, and in looking through the posts on this forum, I've only managed to find bits and pieces of a few members input. I've seen everything from using toothpaste to break the gears in, to sanding the diff discs. If the...
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Spring Tricks....Before installing the diff springs compress each one a couple of times with a pair of pliers...Compressing them before installing them slightly shortens them and makes assembling the diff easier...It also reduces the chances of the...
Wasn’t there a car action article or maybe a booklet written by a prominent racer back in the day on making the 6-gear badass?
I seem to remember something like that but can’t remember exactly. Anybody already post it on this site?
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Very cool, thanks for the info.
Oh yeah...
And after spending the requesite 4 hours or more, probably more, perfecting a 6gear take an air gun and spin the heck out of the trans by spinning the spur gear.
Then dissasemble clean the bearings...
Hi all; first post ever om rc10talk...
Any tips on how to be able to purchase cars like the XLS rere which are discontinued?
eBay has some listings for outrageous amounts so that's not an option for me.
I have the time and patience but pockets...
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If it's discontinued you have to treat looking for it like an original, with potentially more of them around. If you must have it now and have deep pockets there's plenty of options for big money from people who are looking to flip nib kits....
So I am reading through the Classic build threads, etc, in anticipation of starting one of my Classic's this weekend with my 10 year old daughter (her car actually).
Thought it might be a good idea to have a single thread where folks can post up...
...or is there one already and I haven't seen it?!
I was going back and reading that traxxas bandit sliders can be fit very easily to replace the stock losi ones, and realized there isn't a consolidated thread for all of the retrofit, and...
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LXT and Pro SE have narrow chassis. Not a big deal on the LXT but the the Pro SE body won't fit over the the Pro chassis.
True, but it is easier to remove material then add it, a chassis cut to wide specs is less then half inch away per side from...
if i steer all the way in 1 direction the inner side tierods hit when i compress the shock(turn right its the right side, turn left its left side) anyway to prevent this???
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as far as loctite ,that does not have effect on the threads in the nose plate when you disassemble the car??
I agree with what Mark said and just use a 'dab'. It won't affect the threads if you use the stuff that will come back apart. Different...
I have been running on a track set up for 1/8th trucks 
. With nimh batteries it does really good. I just got a 4000 mah lipo and it cooks. I did get a little crazy on the jumps 
