RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

As someone that also had a house fire I hate to see that look in the initial pictures. Luckily I didn't have any of my RC cars in the room that burned but I did loose a CG8 WRC Tamiya static model. It's great to see you resurrecting it. After cleaning my room of junk and finding my OG RC10 I may get...

Nice ride. The ride height looks quite a bit high though. You want the dogbones flat in the rear and the chassis close to level. You might think that having it jacked up would be better but it raises the roll center and center of gravity making it handle much worse. With the proper oil and pistons y...

Since it was taking forever and a day for them to ship my worlds re-re I picked up a set of them up at the LHS. I installed the soft ones on the front and the medium in the rear with 30w F and 35w R. They are working amazingly well. I can drop the car with the battery in it from waist high and it wo...

These guys have it right. I nuked a diff gear on my JRX because I wasn't running a slipper and a dumb low turn trinity back in the day. It also helps to set the torque in the sidewinder with the castle link so you don't nuke parts.

I saw that in your build thread and am thinking of doing the rest of them tonight. I ran them all the way in and out before I put PTFE on it and I still had to drill out the end to clearance the shoulder. I also found out the turnbuckles aren't 4-40 as I bought a tap to see if that would help. I saw...

Like above I'm thinking it's for the post on the original worlds car where it used the bellcranks for a mount. I ended up screwing up the kit body as well but it was because I didn't mask it as well as I thought. Still works for a beater body. I have one on order at the LHS as soon as it's not on ba...

Been a bit busy with the 1:1 racecar so haven't had the chance to play with the RC. I bought some RPM heavy duty ends, it was all the LHS had. installed them on the top links. They still popped off. Seemed that the shoulder of the turnbuckle was going into the end and causing it to become very tight...

I remember seeing a trick in RCCA about using a ball stud in a drill to free up new turnbuckles. That's not needed in this case. They come off a LOT easier than I remember. Used to have to fight with the ends to pop them off.

I'll see if the local has any 4-40 short RPM ends in stock.

And there you have it.

I'll stop by the LHS tomorrow. They get worried if they don't see me at least once a week.

So I noticed if I try and adjust any of the turnbuckles on the rere worlds the ends pop right off. I took all of them off, ran them almost all the way into the ends, backed them out, lubed the threads with Krytech dry lube and out them back together. I kinda expected them to free up a little but nop...

Building RC kits lead me into making a living working on cars. I'm no longer a full time mechanic but for a very long time it's what paid my bills. It taught the basics and yes, the parts aren't the same but you could translate it to 1:1 cars. I'm now involved as the crew chief of a NASA PTD car and...

Everything is better with NACA ducts.

I had that thought after seeing how AE wants $85 for a new tub. I may go that way but like you, there is a good chance I'll end up building it. :lol: @MachV, that's the dude. I'll have to give him a ring. @Nobby, no worries m8. I've been playing around at the track for the last 15+ years. Started wi...

I have a unfounded hatred of Ebay for some reason. I really shouldn't as my brother gets stuff off there all the time and has had no issues. Hell, he bought a truck off it last week. No doubt I can find a few on there but with the fact it's no longer produced they will become less and less common. I...

Since you brought that up I did a little googling and Grade 5 6AL-4V Titanium has a shear strength of 79,800psi and Grade 5 has a shear of 72,000psi. Grade 8 steel clocks in at 90,000psi shear but I doubt AE uses grade 8 in their hardware. For comparison, 7075 aluminum has a shear around 48,000psi W...