RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The condition of that car is amazing! Very clean.

Has anyone tried making a rear sway bar work with the Truck?

1* toe out increases turn in and technically should reduce straight line stability over toe in, but I personally find it makes the car more stable and predictable than toe in, for offroad anyways. Going too low and you reduce the effectiveness of your suspension geometry. Dogbones/ Arms level is ab...

Since nobody has answered I'll chime in a little as I've run a 10T on carpet. First thing I'd change is steering bellcranks as they'd make the biggest difference, the stock ones were useless. This would be my base set up. Front 35 wt oil #2 piston Gold front spring Middle upper tower Outer arm 1* t...

What were the default shock pistons that came with the truck team shocks? 2 or 3? The manual shows ASC6464 as the part number but no markings are on the pistons.

There are no tracks near me, so I'll be bashing in the yard/street/park/dirt fields for now. Did you drill a small 1/8" or less hole in the wheels or the tires for venting? What lipo charger did you opt for? I bought an HTRC HT100 touch but have not used it yet since I don't have any lipo batt...

I picked up a #7011 10T (C) a few weeks ago, and I planned on running my vintage electronics. However I have a feeling that I will want to eventually switch to modern brushless, and EMC's selections look like a solid starting point. I had already purchased some ae 3/16" cvd's, ae one piece 2.2...

The "Vintage RC10T" group on fb has been helpful and fun. I have often linked back to the history thread here to help folks with questions. This forum is far superior for technical knowledge than other groups and forums.

scr8p wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:25 pm You can also just shorten ones for the buggy.

Even easier. I always assumed the truck version were longer. Good to know.

if you don't have a lathe or suitable method for center drilling aluminum rod, this is what you want: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDXYH&P=7 it's sold in 1 ft lengths, and has an ID suitable for #4 tap. I usually buy a handful and make my own nose tubes and wing tubes. ...

Ah you're right, I was looking at a thread for RC10 wing tubes and grabbed up the wrong dimensions. I will get the calipers out and get the correct dimensions.

Given the rarity of the Truck nose tubes these days, has anyone fabricated their own? Is this the correct size if one were to tackle that project? I assume the screw holes need to be tapped to a certain thread as well. 3/16" OD https://www.grainger.com/product/48KU61&AL!2966!3!50916752157!!...

Do you find that the dhawk rear bulkhead stiffens up the rear end of the chassis? The nylon bulkhead allows some flex in the rear, so curious if the aluminum bulkhead solves that.

Whats up with the offset battery tray holes on the early #7001 kits? Was that a production mistake? I see no practical reason those holes would be intentionally offset. I ran into an example of this on a truck someone posted on vintage rc10t on facebook. They couldn't figure out the battery fitment ...

I have some knee pad foam I'm going to try with some hole punches. Hopefully it doesn't get too hot and melt against the motor plate.