RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Yes you can swap armatures around. :D Just make sure you shim leaving a correct amount of end float, that's really the same on brushless motors also. Back in the say all the western motor manufacturers bought their "blank" motors from several Japanese companies: Yokomo, Epic, Kyosho, Sagam...

I’m gonna throw this out there, does anyone have the ball ends from a front stabiliser bar, and the connecting ball cups that they don’t require. I have the original stabiliser and the balls for the front arms, but am missing the rest, cheers Kym There are plenty on ebay search for dubro 180, these...

My Dubro parts for the front stabiliser turned up, now I need some (more) advice, what size set/grub screws do I need for the links, I’ve used some black ones (same as front suspension pin “locks”) but being black they are too visible I’d believe, so I’m guessing they used longer silver ones origin...

Yup Schumacher ball studs work: U3496 short, U3497 long. M3 threads 5.5mm hex, 4.3mm balls like Associated

Also U3495 extra short, U3498 extra long.

While I was installing the steering bell cranks I found the shims for the bottom of the bell crank bushing nuts to be a little bit out of wack. One shim being thicker than the other. I fixed this with some T.O.P. Racing 1mm thick aluminum shims for pan car rear axles. These parts are a bit hard to ...

All associated small bore caps are interchangeable, nylon cap gaskets are not that good, generally o rings are better. Bottom load shocks are no better or worse than the later top loaders, just harder to work on unless you have the proper circlip pliers.

A little cleaner

Penguin bodies are first rate, highly recommended, better than some OEM’s.

As far as parts moving forward, I would like to see dhawk release their parts in machined nylon 66 instead of alloy, that would cover a lot of bases. Bronze front arm mounts would be nice too!

Hi arndogg, What you are describing is not a diff problem, it sounds more like your pinion gear is pressing against the spur gear to tight. It is best practice to use to #4 aluminium washers under the M3 motor screws (as in the manual). This provides a larger surface area and this way should not all...

It fits this is the Overlander 2000mAh NiMH.
The end caps cut off and with blue heat shrink.

Hi, project looking good. I can share my experience from racing my worlds rere. There are a few things You need to do: Use 6565 transmission case and 6570 idler (the rere one is unusable, the gear mesh is wrong). The 8-32 x 1/2" rere screw break on jumps the philips head goes in too deep and th...

RC archaeology at its best.

Martin, did you notice the RC10 idler gear in the transmission?

I've been wanting to do a replica of this car for a long time, probably since I was a kid and saw this car in Radio Race car UK. This car was a classic underdog story 10th place at the Euro's the only 2WD car in the A final. (EFRA did not separate the categories until 1988). After much inspiration f...

Here is the nose plate, cut up...

A little extra kick up ~10 deg, making it 40!!!

The Chassis has already gone under the knife too !
1/2” shorter also.

Small update...