RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

First post, welcome aboard. :D The Pro transmission is a great upgrade, that's for sure. A lot depends on track conditions and driving style but, for what it's worth, I ran variety of 10 and 12t single and multi brushed motors on 7 cell (8.4v) bitd and I didn't experience any reliability problems wi...

A 16t brushed will be fine , the upgrade transmition removes the integrator to just leave a standard front/rear diff arrangement , so you lose one of the most interesting features of the stock transmission , in my mind that's a downgrade not an upgrade .

Interesting perhaps but I always struggled with the CAT's integrator. Running the integrator adds one additional ball differential between the motor and tires overall and potentially a total of three ball differentials between the motor and front tires. In order to prevent the three differentials sl...

I guess if you have the car already you could build it and run it and make your own mind up if you want to buy the upgrade transmission , the down side being that its a lot of work to retrofit .

Sorry , I never meant to confuse. :oops: I never ran my CATs with anything as mild as a 16t motor on 7.2 volts as you are planning to do. Like Dadio says, you will be fine with the kit transmission. However if you ever move up to a hot motor and 8.4v, you might also consider going with the pro diff....

No problem at all! Appreciate every bit of info. Might be a good idea to just get a pro transmission, install stock, and later when or if I’ve gotten a lot of use out of it to reinstall the pro. I think I wouldn’t have bothered much but because I couldn’t find (or maybe missed it) proper info on ma...

Hi, The integrator is what makes this car unique. It is the perfect example of overengineering and the car is easier to setup and run without. But this setup is part of its british charm. I think it will resist a brushed 16T, I plan to run mine with one too. Pay attention to diff and integrator wash...

Are you keeping your transmission stock? And what pinion gear are you planning for the 16T motor? Thanks. Hi, Yes stock transmission for now, maybe pro transmission if I install a BL motor later on and then reuse the stock transmission to rebuild the SWB version I'm now looking parts for. My pinion...

I am going from memory here (always a bit dangerous) but I believe the basic chassis were identical. They each came with different bodies and the wheels were white on the Associated car while the Yoke version had pink wheels. I don’t remember any other things being different. I bought the Yoke as so...

the 870c and yz10 cars between 88 and 93 interchanged for the most part, the bulkheads and drivetrain were pretty much the same with slight differences. 94-95 cars had some major front end changes along with some dramatic rear suspension geometry changes. for the most parts, the division follows wit...

They are for the Yokomo 870c or as it was known in the US the YZ-10.

McAnic wrote: ↑Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:06 pm Alex B, thanks for looking at it and responding!

From Recollection the Andy's arms require the longer front driveshaft part number zc 422

I have a manual for an YZ10 I think it's complete but there is no front page but it looks pretty good and it is English. I'm not sure I can upload it here so if not you might send me your email address and I'll send it that way. Nope can't load it all up here so pm me your email and I'll send it alo...

For general use, I use a soft or medium/soft serrated brush with medium tension springs.

This seems to be a good balance for comm and brush wear, leaning a little more to limiting comm wear.

The harder the brush material, and the stiffer the spring, the faster the motor should run, but the commutator will wear out faster. Softer brushes and springs will prolong the commutator life at the sacrifice of performance. *Most 540 sized RC motors, that allow brush replacement, will use the same...