RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've had good luck with tapping holes in printed parts , if your stuck with pla then use lube and cut slowly or the friction will soften or melt the plastic , generally if I'm tapping PLA ill do several holes at a time cutting only one turn in a hole then moving to the next to let it cool , it's lab...

Questions for you all 1) How bad is it to not have a differential? Has anybody else tried adapting one of these truck transmissions to work with a buggy before? 2) I'd like to ideally run this on a 4s Lifepo4 battery (so 14.4V). Is this too much? Should I aim lower? 3) What motor would you guys rec...

Minimum 4 walls is good , I often go to 7 or more as well as similar numbers of top and bottom layers , infill generally does not add any strength , the void space is actually what helps , in structural terms a tube is often more robust than a solid rod as it can flex better , the semi hollow space ...

May not be the exact same listing but a set like that was the first thing under "rc10 shocks", and this was also included.

That's coming together nicely

May not be the exact same listing but a set like that was the first thing under "rc10 shocks", and this was also included. Screenshot_20230425_142335_eBay.jpg You sir have done more homework than I did. That's my failure. To be honest I'm not really concerned. The shorter shocks are about...

What length are the shocks, eye to eye? Even original RC10 rear shocks were too long. You typically needed 5/8-3/4" of internal spacers for the correct length. I suspect that the fronts are typical truck length, in which case you have another option. Factory Works makes a front tower for using ...

Nose and wing tubes are easily made with K&S 83060 tubing.

JConcepts, JC Racing, and Dynotech all sell the aluminum front axles.

JC Racing makes rear universals in both (3/16 and 1/4) sizes and Custom Works has CVD's in 3/16.