RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Welcome! We look forward to seeing your build and rebuild pics.

Welcome!

Welcome! I'm just north of you in Cecil.

My vote is to work on the stripped out one first. The cut down one looks pretty nice. You always figure out how to do things better after the first build.

Nice haul! Looks like there are enough parts for two cars? If you want to lay all the parts in the bags out, we could see exactly what you have to work with/might be missing. I see a set of hard anodized shocks in there also. For a runner, both chassis look like good starting points, maybe the previ...

For the chassis with most of the anodizing missing, Easy Off oven cleaner and a scrub pad can take care of the rest of it if desired. Nasty fumes need good ventilation, wear good tough gloves, etc.

Nothing extra special with the clean chassis. You have a nicely modded chassis for a nice build though. If you plan to run it eventually, put some chassis tape on it to keep it clean.

Extra holes and enlarged holes seem to significantly take away value from a chassis, unless it's really well done weight reduction holes. Sometimes a holey chassis can get a lot of interest. The part way cut down sides aren't a big value impact if done well. Right now there's so much new re release ...

These two holes are for mounting the battery cup inline. A stamp cars had the battery mounted transverse. All of my A stamp cars have been modified for inline batteries.

It's not a big deal, but this nose plate mount screw hole is the one I don't like.
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Slap a custom cut chassis protector on there and it won't be visible. Alternately, use a drill press and a countersink to tidy the irregular chamfer.

As for measles, using a soak of Greased Lightning or aircraft grade Simple Green can remove the remaining anodizing.

It's not a big deal, but this nose plate mount screw hole is the one I don't like. . 1000015136.png I was looking at that tonight. Probably clean up countersink and make a bushing to resize the hole. I've got a lathe and I'm not afraid to use it! :mrgreen: A little bushing would be cool. Just be aw...

My top shaft diff gears were horribly worn and rough. They were like the teeth were made of Velcro, snagging as they meshed with any 32 pitch gear I tried them on. I could have cleaned them up with a file, but they are very worn and a had a new set leftover from my RC10cc that got a Thorp 48 pitch g...

This is interesting, I was just working on the 6gear for my build, and had the same revelation. The parts lot I bought had a second trans, with the dogbone cups being very worn. After a few measurements, I decided to cut down the outdrives to make idlers. The outdrive gears are the same thickness a...

That turned out nice. For chassis screws, KNK stainless are nice. The nose plate needs a single 1/4" 8-32, the steering bellcranks need a pair of 7/8" 8-32, and the gearbox, front and rear suspension mounts, rear bulkhead, and body mounts use about 2 dozen (probably actually 18) 1/2" ...