RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

About the chassis it is certainly thinner and lighter than the original. It's like the CC. I don't have the classic reissue so can't comment on that one. Do you have actual thickness numbers to support the thinner claim? From my research, I have heard the 40th is as thick as an original variant. I ...

Since the question regarding the color of the nylon parts for the 40th kit came up, I'm revisiting a question I have had for a long time. First, the 40th kit parts are definitely a shade whiter than old kits ever were - albeit not as big a difference as might be thought. Furthermore though... it see...

I do cheat and use a digital set more and more, but I like my Brown and Sharpe best. I bought these 28yrs ago while working in a machine shop. Nice. When I started my career I was gifted a set a 6" Brown & Sharpe's by a guy that was retiring. I used them mostly as backup. I just wasted ano...

...just a packing slip inside the outer box. If you plan to keep it in the box it may be in your interest to keep it sealed in both boxes - AE's packaging is poor and in the case you may sell it some day you may not even want to know if your inner box is damaged. Many are. Mine has minor crease on o...

Title might be a little confusing, but I'm wondering what years each AE logo was used for parts bags. [edit] This is pretty comprehensive list now thanks to Dangeruss, jcwrks & scr8p. It's possible some were used after they should have been expired and replaced but this is an excellent timeline....

Let the money grab commence :lol: just about to post reply asking who would buy this for $20! The target would be guys on this forum among other places, but there's no itch whatsoever to buy this thing for $20. Then I realized I just bought ball bearing kits for the 40th and CC that will never be r...

Got a little head start on modeling the RC10 using the fantastic work of user fbmstar https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=46796 not too much detail and realism yet just a test pass. The idea is not to make parts but just to make photorealistic renderings and test body paint schemes for my CC &a...

... I remember I also have a brand new RC10L body in original bag in storage (the same box art body I have here - don't remember the part#). Found it. One of these decades I'll get around to painting it. I want to do another box art but actually run one of them. Every since I got the 10L all those ...

my 10yo son and his wild one we built together over several weekends..

this thread is so helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share it all. I know it takes forever to document this stuff all while doing it. I'm at the point w/ my old RC10L's that I need to make my own tires to fit onto a few sets of See's aluminum wheels I've been sitting on for literally decades at ...

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Wed Jul 17, 2024 7:46 pmWhat diameter and width are your See's rims?

I don't want to hi jack your thread but it's these.

Your See's wheels are exactly what I would want for an RC10L, those look great! The width of your rear tires being almost 2" seems like that would be the tough donuts to find, the front donuts at 2" x 1.1" are very easy to find. Which donuts do you currently have, that you're thinkin...

It makes sense the TRC #922 are another option. It doesn't show up in the '91 catalog but if they offered other years by their part # conventions 922 would be pre-trued orange donuts for BBS front. Thanks for the motivation w/ this newfound info today I bought a few sets of the TRC pre-trued rears -...

looks great. It's so hard to finish a project. In fact, I don't think I've finished any, including ones that are just dusting up and making my old cars pretty. I remember the Dead Pool article in RCCA, and then had to wait months for it to come out in theaters and then on VHS. I rented it and copied...